Best way to remove down pipe bolts from turbo

X2 on Kroil! It’s harder to find and not cheap! However, after the YUGE Flood we had here in 2016, I found myself attempting to salvage all kinds of stuff (a year after the flood waters had come and gone).

To make matters worse, most of this stuff had been exposed to chlorine tabs (they floated up out of the bucket and landed in parts bin). So, to say the corrosion was intense, would be quite the understatement.

And yet, all we had to do was hit it with a little Kroil and bolts / fasteners that had been together for 20-30 (and then chlorine corroded on top of that) were coming apart no problem. The stuff just plain works!!




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Im still waiting to know if you guys are comparing it to the zep in the white can or the black? huge difference. If you are comparing it to the black can I’ll have to try the kroil. Cause if there is anything better that can bust saltwater bathed bolts that are on the fishing boats that I deal with I’m all ears.

I asked bison and no reply.

Actually, I have a couple of buddies who work on the oil rigs offshore (which is how I was introduced to it). As they swear by it and my cousin has a big boat (trips on it) and he keeps a can on it. And another buddy of ours is charter captain who is firm believer in it too. And all of those are salt water applications.

I had a mildly built LS motor that powered my Jeep TJ a while back that developed a slight miss (hard to detect with cam). Come to find out it had a blown head gasket. The bad thing was it sat for like three or four weeks before we got around to pulling the head. And as luck would have it number one cylinder was all the way down (the cylinder affected) during that whole time.

So, I had a nice little (no it was big) rust ring running across the cylinder. Conventional wisdom says pull the motor and send it to machine shop. However, the motor was fresh (only about 5,000 miles) and aside from the big line of rust, the hatch marks still look great. And after talking to a few old timers (gm techs with Year’s of experience), I decided to fill the cylinder with penetrating oil and see what happened.

I taped everything else off and filled that cylinder with marvel first, then zep (can’t remember which can it was though), then pb, then wd, and more. None of which were working very well. I mean, it helped knock the big ridge off, however, you could still see and feel the ridge. So, I pushed some of the concoction out, added a big dose of Kroil and let it sit a few more days. And I came back with a piece of Emory cloth and it smoothed that ridge out in that cylinder to wear you could hardly tell it had ever even been there. And I figured the rings would do the rest and flushed it out and put it back together and that motor is still purring like a kitten to this day.

I can’t credit Kroil for all of it, however, until I added Kroil the ridge was not dissolving. And while it could have been a combination of all the above. However, it wasn’t until Kroil was introduced that I started to see results.

In August of 2016 there was a huge flood here is South Louisiana and we lost our office and our home. The bad thing was that we couldn’t get back to our home for like five or six days (long story). And my tool room also housed the pool pump and chemicals as well. To make matters worse I had just completed a big project and was getting ready for another. So a lot of my power tools were sitting in buckets on the shop floor. And all of the chlorine tablets had floated around and as Murphy’s law would have it they landed in the buckets (oxidizing my power tools all that time). I thought all was lost as it was two more days before I discovered such!

I figured what the hey I’ve got nothing to lose, right? So I used Kroil on all of em. And believe it or not, they all worked afterwards. Everything except my air compressor motor as it was the sole casualty. But, my drills, hammer drills, sanders, sawzalls, skill saws, cut off wheels, dremel tools, porta band and even my jig saw were saved. And you should have seen the corrosion on these things as that chlorine worked on the metal parts big time, but, Kroil saved me a small fortune in tool replacement.

Just my $2.00 worth (it seemed longer than Kirbans always impressive two cents worth is all).

[emoji4]



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I had to pull the turbo last time I took the elbow/waste gate off and broke some of the fasteners. Welded some nuts on the broken bolts and hit them with the impact when they cooled. Did some 455 heads at the same time getting the broken off exhaust manifold bolts out. Wire feed welder paid for itself that evening.
 

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