Reply to??
Keith wrote:
After reading your message here's my thoughts and some answers to your questions:
1. The snubber is easy to remove, but does the 4-link keep the differential/driveshaft link from over-rotating and going past "instant center"?
IF the suspension bushings and arms are of sufficient strength, they will hold the diff in the location it is set to, or VERY close. The IC on these cars is not right to begin with and requires substancial mods to correct. However, working within the stock or near stock parameters can result in acceptable short times.
2. I don't remember if the sway bar was off or on (last run at the track was over 2 years ago in Texas). In any case, my 60-foots have been about the same with it on as with it off.
This can be a result of other problems.
3. When you say good shocks for the rear, is that as in "soft" or firm? I do have coil spring air bags, so am not sure what difference shocks will make.
Air bags are a "crutch" alot of us use to help correct other problems. Air bags are not a good tuning tool, other than to correct for tire loading, or lack of. Springs support the wt of the car, the shocks are a tuning tool that is used to control how the tires react to shock loading, IE; "hit". They DO NOT contribute to suport of wt.
4. OK.
Your questions:
1. Alky and race gas: Because I was getting a lot of knock even with race gas. I've experimented with various jet sizes. Bigger jets make it go flat at speed. A small jet works good with high octane.
WHOA!!! Knok w/ 116 tells me something serious is wrong w/ this combo. My suggestion is to find it before you part company w/ the head gaskets or the crank! I'd NOT use alky to cover that problem up..
2. By scan tool readings, do you mean O2mv's? I'll have to look this stuff up. I have it somewhere.....
3. Tires spin on launch (if over 10-11psi boost) and continue (chirping) for about 100 feet or so (???)
Lack of wt transfer can cause this, tire bounce due to too much air in the bags,or bad shocks. Tires on rims that are too narrow can also cause this.
4. Upper control arms are NOT boxed and bushings are original (148K)
This needs to be addressed. Suggest adjustables, w/ pinion angle in the 3-4* area.
5. I have no idea what the pinion angle is.
Check it w/ a protractor. Sears sells them inexpensive.
6. Do you mean the aftermarket seat braces that fit in the trunk? Front braces under the hood? The body is stock with no aftermarket braces. I've gotten wrinkles in the roof over the "opera windows"
Those wrinkles are due to body flex. If they continue to be "hit on", you can expect cracks at the A and B pillar corners.
7. I have never looked at the body mounts.
I'd do the body mounts w/ the poly kit from either ENERGY, or PST.. A good 1 day project and it'll really tighten the car up!!
Get the ft and rear braces in also.. getting the frame and body as rigid as possible is MANDATORY for repeatable performances.
8. The limited slip will let the right rear spin by itself in the right conditions.... It's actually not stock to the TR. I bought a used '79 Camaro posi and had it installed, so it was old already.
At minimum, do a rebuild.. Not much sense trying to get a peg leg to perform.
Up here at 6100 feet I'm running G-Tech readings of 12.5-12.6 at 114mph. Still good mph, but the G-Tech gives higher mph than the clocks at a track. On the other hand, I've added the TH downpipe and the RJC Powerplate since getting here so I don't think I've lost as much as a naturally aspirated car would, but it's still slower than at 700 feet in San Antonio.
It will be!
HTH, Back under my rock!
