Bleeding the rear brakes???

[HYBRIDT]

You guys have any trouble bleeding the rear brakes on your cars? I put on the S-10 rear wheel cylinders today and can't seem to figure out how to loosen or tighten the bleeder valve with a hose on it because it is recessed so far back into the wheel cylinder . I can't get a wrench in there with a hose on the end of the valve. I only can get a socket in there to loosen and tighten the valve. Any ideas other than just being messy about it and just using a socket and letting the fluid go everywhere? Oh yeah, the manual for the car said "bleeding order goes pass. rear, drivers front, drivers rear, then pass front". Does that seem right ? I read it three times to be sure that's what it said.?

 

[pat83t]

That doesn't sound right. I use to do brakes for a living and was ASE certified in brakes and was always told start at the furthest away from the master cylinder and work towards it. RR, LR, RF, LF.

 

[HYBRIDT]

Any ideas on the bleeder screw thing? It's pretty deep in the wheel cyl.?????

 

[billsgn]

You can always go to the auto parts store and get a longer bleeder screw/valve.

 

[HYBRIDT]

I also converted to vacuum brakes at the same time, will doing a basic 4 corner bleed take care of any air at the master cylinder or is there another procedure? Will I have to bleed the perportioning valve? Does it have a bleed screw?

 

[billsgn]

I did the vacuum conversion....

When I did mine, all I did was bleed the master prior to installing and "burped" it a few times on the car and was done. No need to bleed anything else.

HTH...Bill

 

[TurboSlacker]

To reach those buried rear bleeder valves you need a deep 8mm socket. It will be a little messy, but not too bad. After cracking it open a 1/2 turn or so, put a hose on it and let it gravity bleed or use a Mity-vac to suction bleed it at the wheels. Then use your fingers on the hose to turn the bleeder as tight as you can; then use the socket to finish tightening it.

Definitely bleed Right Rear, Left Rear, Right Front, Left Front. Don't forget to keep the proportioning valve stem clamped while bleeding the rears.

I never had any success having someone pump the brake pedal while I worked the bleeders. Much, much easier to use a Mity-vac from Sears or any auto parts store. Regardless, bleeding this brake system is a pain in the butt. Especially after injesting air into the reservoir - DOH!

 

[HYBRIDT]

"keep the proportioning valve stem clamped while bleeding the rears. " TurboSlacker
I looked quickly at the proportioning valve, which part needs to be clamped?

 

[boostedmaxPSI]

I thought that you need a new proportioning valve? I want to do this to my GN this summer but have been weary of the proportioning valve thing. Also I thought I read somewhere that the rears would sometimes engage early. Is any of this true.

Gotta let us know how it turns out. Then come over to help install them. hehehe.

Frank

 

[billsgn]

Not needed....

To do the conversion to vacuum, the only parts needed are....

1) Master cylinder
2) Vacuum booster with check valve
3) Brake pedal

Also, I don't recall ever having to do anything to the proportioning valve when bleeding the brakes....

 

[boostedmaxPSI]

s10 wheel cylinders

My question was directed at the S10 WC. I too want to do the upgrade for better brake holding but don't wan't to mess with the proportioning valve. Hmmmmm

FS

 

[billsgn]

My mistake....

I am in need of S10 wheel cylinders as well....

 

[HYBRIDT]

At the moment I'm not getting hardly any rear wheel brakes , but I Think I need to re-bleed the rears. There are two problems I'm having at the moment: 1- I tried to use Russel speed-bleeders on the rear wheel cyl. which have a check ball in them so you don't need to re-tighten the bleeder valve quickly and, 2- I think I tried to do too much at one time. I figured that if I was going to work on the brakes, I was going to WORK on the brakes. I just figured, no sense in making it fast if I can't stop it, so I installed the vacuum conversion, cross-drilled rotors, braided stainless brake lines, s-10 wheel cylinders, double large shoes, performance pads, and painted the calipers. Now the pedal is kind of squishy, during quick stops the fronts lock up, and the brake light is on (cause: no powermaster?). Soooooo time to start wading through the problems. Although I'm pretty sure if I can properly bleed the rears it might aleviate most of my issues. On the bright side it's another chance for my T and I to get closer Thanks for all the input
Adam

 

[billsgn]

Wow....all out huh?

Adam, I would gravity bleed all four corners, and then go rr, lr, rf, lf. This should work....if not, call me and I will come over and help you.

FYI, I used to do brakes for a living....

 

[Powder]

I feel your pain! After chasing all over trying to find longer bleed valves I finally found some speed bleeder valves made by Russell. B&B auto parts is where I found the right size. Part number is either 3953/639530 or 3952/639520. Take your stock one with you to make sure you get the right size. They work fairly well.

MLH

 

[TurboSlacker]

I also installed the Russell speed bleeder valves. It does make the job less messy and easier to do by one person.

As far the the proportioning valve, all you have to do is keep the valve stem on the forward face from moving when you send fluid to the rears. Look at the valve located on the underside, behind the left-front tire. The front side has a stem sticking out about 3/8". Simply put a clamp on it with reasonable pressure to keep it from moving while bleeding the brakes. You're not trying to move it inwards, just keep it from moving.

The squishy brakes are most likely air trapped in the system somewhere. On my powermaster, I had to bleed at the master cylinder, then hit all four wheels in order to finally get a firm pedal. I recommend bleeding all four wheels in proper order again - just doing the rears won't get it.

Be careful with those S10 wheel cylinders. They've been known to lock the rears before the fronts - not a fun experience. Might need to get an adjustable proportioning valve to get the right balance.

Frank, I would be happy to help out with your brakes. I'm sure Bill has a ton more experience than me, but I have gone thru enough pain on mine to figure out a few helpful tips.

 

[HYBRIDT]

Here we go. . . . . .

O.K. Ya ready? ? ? ?
Good news: came up with a new tool for bleeding my brakes Take 1 8mm 3/8 drive cheap socket, epoxy in a couple feet 1/4" clear plastic tubing to the ratchet side, grind opposing sides of the socket flat so you can wrench on it, put a small o-ring in the end to seal to the bleeder screw and bleed away.
Bad news: Too much air in the lines it isn't working
Good news: Porsche racing prep shop out behind my work has compressor-assisted vacuum bleeding system they'll let me use.
Bad news: My downpipe and the exhaust housing for my TA-49 are still sitting in their office after being "sent out two weeks ago"
Good news:I put my downpipe and TA-49 in today (after I polished the intake-side housing)
Bad news:They aren't coated, nor are they going to be anytime soon
Good news:Brakes bleed great, lots of air out of the rear lines and some out of the fronts. I decided to bleed the system twice and the pedal is rock hard.
Bad news: While having my head stuffed in the drivers side wheel well bleeding the brakes I noticed a crack in the drivers side header.
Good news:The car sounds awesome with a straight downpipe exhaust! ! !
Bad news: I know this 'cause the "test" pipe that came with my exhaust system isn't 3". DUH!
Good news: Car stops on a dime and doesn't seem to prematurely lock the rears.
Bad news:Can't test on the street 'cause the exhaust sounds like a offshore race boat.

In summation it still brings a smile to my face just to get the car down off of the jack stands and if you don't have any patience or if you have too much of a temper, DON'T DRIVE A TURBO BUICK!

 

[boostedmaxPSI]

Glad to hear the your that much closer to being on the road again. When it's dry we'll have to hook up for a night of fun.


oh yhea: the word of the day is "Monsoon".

Thanks. A

 

[billsgn]

Good news....

Now the car runs and stops on a dime! So when will the correct test tube arrive? Sounds like you should have your car back on the road pretty soon.

Update on my car....

Exhaust leaks - GONE!
Chip changed - Idles GREAT!
Road test - No more LAG!!!

The car is running great and has good power. I am only running 18 lbs of boost right now because the only chip I have available to use is a 26 deg timing Race chip. With my alky turned all the way up, I dont get any knock on straight pump gas. The good news is I have a few different injector/chip combos on the way.

Bill