Bolt slicks to rims or not?????

[buickrob]

Hey everybody! I'm thinking about getting a new set of light aluminum 15X10 wheels and a set of MT E/T Drag slicks 26X10X15. Do you think I should have the rims drilled and have the slicks bolted to the rims to prevent slipage? Looking at my current combo I think the car could run mid 12's maybe low 12's, do you think this car has enough power to spin the rim in the tire? Just wondering, maybe somebody could throw me a suggestion.

Also should I go with 15X10 wheels or maybe 15X9? I'm only going with a 10" wide slick. Thanks!

 

[UNGN]

No. There is really no reason to unless you run less than 13 psi and run tubes.

For a 12 second car that size slick/wheel makes little sense. Put a pair of 28X9 slicks at 15 psi on 8 inch wide wheels (or get a set of 275/60 drag radials at 18 psi) and you should be able to cut 1.6X 60 fts all day on a prepped track with a high boost (10 psi launch). Your planned tire/wheel combo won't do measurably better than this on a 12 second car.

Don't screw up a set of wheels needlessly.

 

[buickrob]

thats what I was thinking, I didnt want to mess up new wheels. I thought we couldn't run 28" tall wheels without mods? Thats why I was staying with 26X10, it seems to me most guys run either 26X10 slicks or MT ET streets. I'm eventually looking to go faster than 12's maybe into mid 11's. thanks

 

[UNGN]

Originally posted by buickrob
thats what I was thinking, I didnt want to mess up new wheels. I thought we couldn't run 28" tall wheels without mods? Thats why I was staying with 26X10, it seems to me most guys run either 26X10 slicks or MT ET streets. I'm eventually looking to go faster than 12's maybe into mid 11's. thanks

28" tires work fine with no mods. The stock long block is RPM limited. They'll also allow a higher boost launch. Your signature shows a TE44 and 009's. That's easily 11.5 territory and will run 26" tires out of RPM's through the traps.

 

[buickrob]

Ahh, now I get it Too many revs with the 26", makes sense. So you say 28X9 which I will do for sure. How about rim size then, I guess 15X8 with standard 3 1/2 backspacing? Thanks for all your help.

 

[buickrob]

OK I think I will order 28X9X15 MT ET DRAGS and 2 Centerline 15X8 5 on 4 3/4 with 3.5" BS. Anybody want to tell me different on the backspacing? Please let me know before I dump $650 and find out I can't turn Thanks for all your help UNGN

 

[Louie L.]

15x8 w 3.5 bs is correct

 

[billsgn]

28 x 9 - 15 Slicks....

I have a brand new pair of 28x9 slicks for sale. They are mounted on brand new Centerline Telstars 15x8 with 4" backspacing. These slicks have 0 runs on them and fit perfectly on the TB's with no rubbing or touching. If you want them, I will sell the entire package for $575 plus shipping. I can send you pics on if you want. Just let me know....

Thanks, Bill

 

[TURBOV6]

I would reccomend the screws just to be on the safe side, not saying UNGN is wrong but this is from my experience. I have MT ET Drags 26X10X15's mounted on Pro Stars 13 psi with no tubes did a high 11's with a 1.64 on the 60ft. I marked the tire with a grease marker did one pass and checked the tire and noticed the tire moved an inch.

 

[buickrob]

billsgn

you got mail!

 

[azgn]

any launch in the low 1.6 range and down will prolly move the tire on the rim (which is just like spinning)

if you plan to launch hard, use screws (I use 4 per side...works fine)

 

[Nojug]

I run a 26X11.5X16 on GNX style rims my car has been 11.10 at 122 on a 1.58 short time w/ 12psi of air and the tire dosent move on the rim for a 12sec car I would say dont mess up your rims even if you plan to run in the 11's unless they are more likely to spin w/ the extra sidewall. FYI,
Jay

 

[azgn]

ET Streets (Dot legal tires) aren't the same as slicks...they will turn on the rim with a hard launch

if you are worried about your rims.....go out to the track, mark your tires, and make a few passes...if they don't turn...so be it (but best keep 'em marked)

 

[GN/GTO]

bolt or not to bolt slicks

I have been drag racing for 30 years. From stock to super stock to brackets.. All the cars I have ever raced or friends of mine that raced, we wouldn't even think of not bolting slicks to a rim. It is just a part of life and there was never a question as to do it or not. My GN runs 60ft times in the 1.51 range, carries the left front tire out the gate... I don't even give my slicks a second though. Mickey Thompson ET Drags 28x9 on 8" rims. work great for me...Bolt them and forget them...

 

[Tow Man]

Re: bolt or not to bolt slicks

Originally posted by GN/GTO
I have been drag racing for 30 years. From stock to super stock to brackets.. All the cars I have ever raced or friends of mine that raced, we wouldn't even think of not bolting slicks to a rim. It is just a part of life and there was never a question as to do it or not. My GN runs 60ft times in the 1.51 range, carries the left front tire out the gate... I don't even give my slicks a second though. Mickey Thompson ET Drags 28x9 on 8" rims. work great for me...Bolt them and forget them...

AMEN BROTHER!! I can't believe that tech would even allow slicks without rim screws. In my opinion it's not a safe practice!

If you don't want to booger up a high dollar set of wheels, get some used cheapies at a swap meet or bone yard! Save your expensive wheels and DOT tires for street use.

In the 11 second territory, you don't need 8 screws per side, 4 or 5 will do just fine. I use 5 and follow the lug holes in the wheel as a drill guide for even spacing.

 

[buickrob]

here is a retarded question!

So if I bolt them do I absolutely have to run tubes or may the screws not go through the bead and cause a leak?

I'd really rather not run tubes!

 

[UNGN]

Originally posted by buickrob
here is a retarded question!

So if I bolt them do I absolutely have to run tubes or may the screws not go through the bead and cause a leak?

I'd really rather not run tubes!

The only real reason to screw them to the rim is because you are running tubes. If the tire/tube rotate on the rim, the tube's valve can be sheared off, resulting in a rapidly deflating slick.

If you are not going to run tubes anyway, the slick rotating 1" on the rim during a run has about a zero chance of hurting anything.

And YES, running screws without tubes will cause air loss through the screw holes despite what a lot of people say. I know this because I have a set of screwed up wheels.

 

[GN/GTO]

I have seen slicks mounted tubeless... but no slick says tubeless on the side of it.. and if a slick turns on a rim it can let air escape...Agian I say why even give yourself something to worry about!!! Bolt them to the rims and concentrate on making the car go fast and having fun!!!

 

[DR BOOST]

many people run their slicks tubeless with 3M weatherstripping adhesive on the beads. no problems so far even on mid 10 second cars.


surej

 

[EightSecV6]

I have run my slicks tubeless with a 1.23 60ft time, you save 9lbs/wheel. The ONLY reason to run tubes is so they do not lose air while sitting, you should check the pressure before every pass anyway.
Under NO circumstances should you run a slick without screws, doesnt have much to do with running tubes or not. Screws secure the tire bead to the wheel. Watch a slick under a hard launch in slow motion, it is terribly distorted in the sidewall and tread. The bead can actually pull away from the rim,can get you in real trouble fast as well as contribute to tire shake etc. On a lower hp car, suppose you have a real tight posi or a spool, one tire breaks loose on the rim (spins) and the other one does not.....
Bill