Boost backfire rough idle

[BigDuke6]

 

[BigDuke6]

On a side note, my wheels came back from powder coat,.....something to smile about....

 

[Phoneguy]

Well hopefully its a dude at the parts store....maybe I can see if he can crank up the rpms for the test. My area's plagued with female autoparts employees...... Hang my head every time.....seems 1 in ten's easy on the eyes

I had a 3 week old alternator drop to 10 volts on a street hit. Luckily I was logging and caught it. Told the Autozone dude what it was doing...he said if my machine doesn't show the fault I cant replace it....WOW
I started to get pissed and told him I can show you what it does !! A counter guy that has seen me and my car in there for years stepped in and said just replace it !!

They have no way of ramping up the rpms, might be able to lean on a tension bar to simulate a higher load...but I doubt it would do anything other than stress the bearing.
Good luck

Bryan

 

[BigDuke6]

Thanks Bryan... I'll post the results in the AM

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Backfire thru the intake, or out the exh side?
Sounds like a PL is a good choice, for the next "hit" to the wallet.
Crank endplay is?

 

[TurboBuRick]

What ignition module are you running?
Have you tried to simply move the cam sensor a little?

 

[BigDuke6]

Backfire is through the exhaust.
PL definetly in the near future.
Its an aftermarket ignition from kirban, along with the coil. I've swapped in a few different one's I have in different combos with each other, no change. I have set and re set the cam sensor to spec(Caspers tool @25deg atdc) also tried moving it passed where the initial light comes on, up to a half an inch.
End play, I don't know. You think I could be walking out of the crank sensor with excessive end play? Will check.

 

[Jerryl]

Which translator?
Ignition module harness pins clean and tight?

Bend the pins on the harness module plug a bit with a pick to be sure. Also check and tighten all pins on ECM plugs.

 

[BigDuke6]

6.25 translator. Checked the pins on the module, will look at the harness plug for module and ecm plug

 

[BigDuke6]

 

[BigDuke6]

Well this looks encouraging. How do I remove the wires? I have a parts harness I can rob from.

 

[Lil Truck]

Ouch! Claspers has the tools for the pins. You might give them a call, a splice connector might be a better way to go?

 

[1984 t-type]

I will have to look in the in the face of the connector to see exactly how the terminals lock in but most times they are the same. I will post a picture of some of the tools i use at work to depin connectors but without having to buying one you can easily make a pick out of a piece if welding rod, a mini screwdriver like out of a eyeglass repair kit or even a metal hanger, just need to file it flat.

 

[1984 t-type]

The small grey pic on the end is one of my faves and it's just a filed down piece of hanger that I heated up and pushed inside a plastic dowl pin.

 

[BigDuke6]

Alternator test came back good

 

[BigDuke6]

See what I can fab up...thanks for the tooling pictures

 

[Jerryl]

Well this looks encouraging. How do I remove the wires? I have a parts harness I can rob from.

If I recall . . The wires only come out from the front/open end.

Get the splice with new connectors from Caspers and twist/ solder/heat shrink. I would stay away from a used plug. You have been through too much for $40

Hope that solves it.

 

[1984 t-type]

If you splice in a new connector be sure to use heat shrink with glue ( dual wall )

 

[Chuck Leeper]

I think Jerryl is correct. Those are pull to seat pins...Like inj plugs.
I guess 50#/ft torque is a bit much, on that connector!!

 

[BigDuke6]

Well....order fm Caspers and a powerlogger......we shall see....stay tuned. Won't have any results on here for 7 days as I gotta go back to work outta state. Hopefully some parts show up while I'm gone. Thanks for everybody's interest, thoughts and suggestions!