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boost gauge vs vacuum/boost gauge

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GW2

Member
Joined
May 29, 2009
Messages
385
My friend has a boost gauge (its a good autometer one that goes to 35psi) which i can get for cheap, but i wanted a vacuum/boost gauge before, is the extra money ill have to spend worth the extra info?
 
Depends on how much boost you plan to run. I like being able to see vacuum. My gauge goes to 30 psi. Autometer Z series.
 
well right now i am keeping it stock while in school but eventually i want to go up. and id rather avoid multiple purchases.
 
Get a mechanical vac/boost gauge 30hg/30psi. Autometers are nice.
 
Do it once, get the boost and vac gauge. Save yourself from having to buy it twice. I wished I would have went this route...oh well. My 2 cents.
 
I've always had a boost gauge without vacuum. I don't see the use for the "vacuum" feature...:confused:

Claude. :wink:
 
Depends on how much boost you plan to run. I like being able to see vacuum. My gauge goes to 30 psi. Autometer Z series.

Exactly what I use, the Autometer Z. Vac/boost. You can tell a LOT about the internal condition of your engine just by the vacuum gauge alone. Very valuable tool. Highly recommend using this one.

Bruce '87 Grand National
 
I've always had a boost gauge without vacuum. I don't see the use for the "vacuum" feature...:confused:

Claude. :wink:
the vacuum 'feature' can tell you how the engine is running at times when you aren't making boost, and can gain you a couple of miles per gallon when you learn to keep the needle steady when you are cruising down the highway. while you may or may not care about the fuel economy of your TR, some people do care and it can also help you drive your daily driver more smoothly as you become aware of just how much your foot moves the gas pedal.
 
That's right, excellent for going for good gas mileage. Higher vacuum 14-22in. equals good mileage, lower vacuum 5-14in. equals fair, and lower still 0-5 equals poor. A steady high vacuum reading will get you good mileage.

Bruce '87 Grand National
 
I have a vac/boost gauge. Its Summit's house brand and works very well :smile: I want to say it cost about $40 and came with all needed hardware and lines for assembly.
 
Well, if you don't have ANYTHING right now, something is better than nothing.
You know, having 2 boost gauges ain't a bad idea.
Bet they don't read the same, though.
 
Well, if you don't have ANYTHING right now, something is better than nothing.
You know, having 2 boost gauges ain't a bad idea.
Bet they don't read the same, though.

Absolutely!!! The more gauges the better!!:tongue: Loooooove lots of gauges!!!!:biggrin:

Bruce '87 Grand National
 
I have one car with just boost and one with ca/boost. The only downside is the numbers are smaller on the vac/boost. Which can make it a little tougher to read boost by just glancing at it going down the track.
 
I have one car with just boost and one with ca/boost. The only downside is the numbers are smaller on the vac/boost. Which can make it a little tougher to read boost by just glancing at it going down the track.

That's exactly what I was thinking. The "boost" gauge, being on the pilar is 2 1/16th in diameter and having a "vacuum/boost" in the same one is too many little numbers and is not easy to read. I figured that I might have a "boost" gauge only as I don't see what I can learn from a vacuum gauge.

Claude. :)
 
My gauge is placed in the pod so that my target boost will have my needle pointed directly to the right. The needle being at 3 o'clock or less means its all good. If I see out of the corner of my eye that it is past 3 o'clock, then I know somethings up. Haven't had that happen though.
 

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