Brake Light

[Tom Walker]

comes on when I first brake, then off until next time. pedal is soft but still stops well. after discharging accumulator, and turning key on, it recharges in about 10 sec. or so. leave key on and it doesn't self-cycle again. guess no internal leak. is it the accumulator, then?

 

[BlackMetal]

Don't want to answer myself because I'm not sure but look here...

Powermaster Diagnostics

 

[Tom Walker]

that's how I got as far as I did. just want to hear if I'm going in the right direction. seems like the acc. is weak. do you guys think so too?

 

[zeus87gn]

10 seconds isn't really a big deal.
No self cycling is a good sign.

The soft pedal is an indication that you have air in yout system.
Sometimes can be hard to remove it all.

 

[Turbo_D]

I've been having the same problem with mine. I replaced the unit with a reman. Powermaster when it took a dump and have had the brake light coming on when I first hit the brake and then immediately goes off until I hit the brake the next time. I bled the brakes "old school" but didn't get it to go away. Maybe I need to hook it up to a machine for a bleed...

 

[zeus87gn]

I've been having the same problem with mine. I replaced the unit with a reman. Powermaster when it took a dump and have had the brake light coming on when I first hit the brake and then immediately goes off until I hit the brake the next time. I bled the brakes "old school" but didn't get it to go away. Maybe I need to hook it up to a machine for a bleed...

I'll be you need to cycle the acc to get out the remaining air. Pump it down and look for air in the ps of the bowl.

Define "old school". You mean pump bleeding to get out air at the wheels?
Did you bench bleed it?

 

[Turbo_D]

Yep, pump bleeding it at the wheel until my buddy and I didn't see any more air in the resivour.

I don't know what a bench bleed is. I guess that is the better way...

 

[zeus87gn]

Yep, pump bleeding it at the wheel until my buddy and I didn't see any more air in the resivour.

I don't know what a bench bleed is. I guess that is the better way...

Bench bleeding is a term used to explain a style of removing air from the mastercylinder before you bleed the lines to the wheels. If you don't do this, you will not have good braking becuse there is still air in the main cylinder. It is extremely rare that you would ever get all the air out of it without doing this.

See my sig for proper procedures. If you search for blench bleeding, you will find links to other descriptions as well. Some have good pics. I don't have mine yet.

 

[Turbo_D]

Thanks man. I will do it one of these days when I can stop working

 

[zeus87gn]

Thanks man. I will do it one of these days when I can stop working

I probably won't ever be able to stop doing that....unless I win the lottery!







Yea, right.

 

[Tom Walker]

I will be doing mine soon. bought synthetic DOT 3. when you convert to syn, do you bleed all the system until clean, airless? is syn. and reg dot3 compatable, if it doesn't all come out?

 

[Tom Walker]

ttt

 

[zeus87gn]

To my knowledge, the synthetics can mix with the old stuff. I've done it many times now. Yes, bleed until you see fresh fluid at all the wheels and no air. Drive it for a while and bleed it again in 6 months. The second bleeding is where you will see the difference the synthetic makes.

Personally, I prefer the synthetic DOT4. It has a slightly higher boiling point. I think it's the valvoline brand. Works great.

Good luck!

Z

 

[Tom Walker]

Thanx, Z, appreciate the reply. Gonna change to a adj.prop.valve, s10 rear cyls, and then bleed, bleed, bleed... T.