What's a good buffer to get? Also what accessories should I get with it? Pads, wool, foam, backing.
Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com
Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com
Buffer
- Thread starter gnxtc2
- Start date
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http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/threads/buffing-experts-needed.409232/
Hey I finally figured out how to post stuff!
Hey I finally figured out how to post stuff!
If you're not a detail experts I cannot stress strongly enough that you DO NOT use a rotary buffer, and DO NOT use wool pads.
The best, safest method is to use a DA (Dual Action) buffer with foam pads and the polishes of your choice.
I use a Porter Cable DA buffer and bouight it in kit form so that I got a good overall selection of pads to use.
This is the kit I bought: http://www.autogeek.net/porter-cable-7424-kit.html
Correction: this is actually the kit I bought: http://www.autogeek.net/pc7424-low-profile-pad-kit.html
Then just had to decide which polished I liked best. Personally I prefer Meguiars M105 and Meguiars M205 polished for perfecting the finish, and I use Mothers waxes to finish the job.
Remeber, wax doesn't produce the shine, that's the job of polish. Wax just protects the work you've done.
If I'd had the money at the time I'd have got an even better FLEX DA polisher, but it's very pricey at $350 just for the machine, and much more for a good starter kit like:
http://www.autogeek.net/flex-pe14-polisher-pad-kit.html
The right machine and pads can really do wonders for the finish!! Technique is more important the product. A quote from the experts.
Have fun choosing!!
My GN came out of the paint booth looking really spectacular last year, but.... After a clay bar once over, and several trips over it with polishing and waxing, it's smoother than a baby's butt and NO swirls and ghosts that rotary buffers ALWAYS leave behind.
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Auto geek is great. Just got my first order from them. Plus I like the vids. that steer you thru just about any problem. And I used the 3m 3step system with my rotary buffer on a couple of my cars and its great, but DON'T USE THE ROTARY ON YOUR BUICK! He's right go with the porter cable or the Griots Garage. I think Dave's one of the guys that helped me with all of my questions. Visit these sites and threads and it will be a walk in the park.
Hey Dave, we need to get some guys together and do a timeshare on the flex polisher. I watched that vid a couple of weeks ago, and what's that thing weigh, like 4-1/2 grams. That damn orbital I have (I use on the other cars) is one of those old early 80's black and decker pros. That thing will last forever but I swear I'm going to end up with a hernia one day.
I have the Porter Cable DA buffer but need something more HD for my project. I'm not using the buffer on my GN but on my trailer.
I have the 3M Perfect-it 3 step kit. I tried the step 1 (rubbing compound) and the DA could cut it.
Didn't know you can use a wool pad with a DA.
In my bright stupid idea, I put phophorus acid in a garden spray bottle and proceeded to spray down the aluminum trim. Well the phophurus acid ran down the black paint
I had a detail guy come my and all he wanted to do is use his orbital polisher on it. I told him that he needs to use a buffer and he looked at me with the deer in headlights look. I tried to get other guys to do the job and they don't want to do it. So I have to do it myself.
If buffing doesn't work, then it's either vinyl wrap or plastidip it.
Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com
Ok I'm sending a guy to give you some advice. That's what he works on. I will see if I can round him up. It might take a day or two, he's only around 30 some years old. He's probably not setting at home like my (almost) 50 year old butt.
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626gn
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Feb 15, 2009
- Messages
- 2,679
If you still have original paint I would check paint thickness before you start any type of paint correction. Original paint is paper thin and may have very little thickness left after 26 yrs of polishing. If its a repaint you should be good to go without checking.
I have the Porter Cable DA buffer but need something more HD for my project. I'm not using the buffer on my GN but on my trailer.
I have the 3M Perfect-it 3 step kit. I tried the step 1 (rubbing compound) and the DA could cut it.
Didn't know you can use a wool pad with a DA.
In my bright stupid idea, I put phophorus acid in a garden spray bottle and proceeded to spray down the aluminum trim. Well the phophurus acid ran down the black paint
I had a detail guy come my and all he wanted to do is use his orbital polisher on it. I told him that he needs to use a buffer and he looked at me with the deer in headlights look. I tried to get other guys to do the job and they don't want to do it. So I have to do it myself.
If buffing doesn't work, then it's either vinyl wrap or plastidip it.
Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com
If it didn't cost so MUCH, I'd recommend you look into a FLEX DA buffer to replace your Porter Cable. The FLEX brand buffers are "forced rotation"(notice how your Porter Cable will stop rotating if you press too hard) style DA's so as such, they can be more agressive. But at $350 a pop, they're not for the faint of heart.
I have the Flex DA buffer. Great tool, can get heavy after a while but it's a workhorse.
I agree with Turobdave, can't beat the combo of the M105/M205 polishing compounds! As for waxes, that can depend on the color of the car. I like the Wolfgang Fusion and Pinnacle waxes. The Fusion is easy to work with.
I agree with Turobdave, can't beat the combo of the M105/M205 polishing compounds! As for waxes, that can depend on the color of the car. I like the Wolfgang Fusion and Pinnacle waxes. The Fusion is easy to work with.
forcefed3.8's
Buckeye Bullet
- Joined
- May 26, 2002
- Messages
- 3,845
I buffed mine with 3M compound on a Foam cutting pad. It looked worse than yours. Now it looks like new. I am a painter/bodyman, so I am familiar with a rotary buffer. Don't be scared, start off slow.
What sucks is 3m has taken all cutting agents out of there compound. So I just make my own
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