C-Clip Eliminators question

NOT TRUE that is one of the things I do on a car that I am going to run hard,and have'nt run into brake problems yet.
Not true, c-clip elims do not require new or different rear brakes. The parking brake link will not fit.

If you go with weld-on ends and use axles with pressed bearings, the backing plates and all brake hardware and shoes need changed. Use early A-body or Camero backing plates and parts with the new ends.
After breaking an axle doing a burnout and seeing my wheel come within 1/1000 of an inch from ripping thru my quarter panel, I had C clip eliminators installed. They have been on over 3 years and over 3,000 miles with no leaks and no problems!!! I also heard all the tales of wo and leaks... usually from people who did not have them... but the guy who intalled mine said that was not true if they are properly installed. So far he has been correct. I use the big soft rear brake pads to help launch the car. Paul
I agree with paul vilser
I use the Mark Williams c-clip eliminators and axles. The design of the williams set up is superior IMO (O ring seals instead of gaskets). ALSO, the e-brake lever clears and no alterations to the stock brake setup is needed.

Alot of the leakage problems are install related. Take your time, do it the right way (not the fast way) and you shouldn't have any problems.

HINT - don't beat the backing plate flat, reshape the bearing housing to fit. Make sure all mating surfaces are clean & flat. I think NOT doing these things is the #1 reason people have leaks.

Would I suggest them on a 10,000 mile a year car? NO
Weekend warrior? absolutely
I agree with nick,

weld on "ford" ends wont leak , and i went with the 350.00 ford rear disk kit that fits big bearing ford. looks nice.
I'm not saying the c-clip emliminators are the BEST answer, but a decent alternative. The Ford ends are BY FAR the best way to go but, it seems every time c-clip eliminators are mentioned, all these horror stories pop up.

Fact of the matter is, people complain more than they praise. This is a fact...if something good happens, a person will tell one or two people. If something BAD happens, they tell EVERYONE.
Oddly enough, most of the complaints come as second hand info. There are plenty of people using the eliminators successfully in all types of cars...the ones that have problems are the ones you hear from the most though because bitching is more fun than praising.

As far as the bearings going out at low mileage - so what. They are so easy to change it's ridiculous. With parts in hand, it would be a 40 minute job.

If MINE leak, it will be from the axle seal, not the bearing housing. Like I said before, alot of it is in the install and most people don't take the time to do it right (even the "professionals"). When I did mine, I took approx 16 hours to do it. WHY? because EVERYTHING was checked and fitted correctly, no short cuts or quick alternatives...not doing them the way I did it, it's a 2 hour job (if that).
I spoke with a guy at Moser last month, and he told me that they had redesigned their c clip eliminators to add an extra oring and that they didn't leak now. He didn't say when they did this. I also asked about bearing life and he said that they should last about 10,000 miles so for a fairly low mileage street strip car they should be fine (his words). Moser also has an 11" drum brake kit to go with the weld on Ford ends for $300, which would be a nice upgrade to the early chevy A body brakes (which are the only other choice with the weld on ends). They are a bolt in but you may need to change the nut on the brake line (he didn't know for sure). Trouble is by the time you do the weld on ends, 30 spline axles, eaton posi, new bearings and seals everywhere, and the 11" brakes you are up to about $1350 without gears and labor, and like someone else said, it's still an 8.5" 10 bolt. I think I'm going to go this way anyway, though.
Gene - at your power level, I would agree. You definatly need something more serious.

For the rest of us moderate performance level people, we have other options.

Here's a quick question -
Why not just weld on the c-clip eliminators (if someone already has them)? Other than the bearing advantage of the ford ends, I don't see any reason not to weld them on and no brake change would be needed. It would eliminate any possible leak problems (which seems to be the #1 complaint).

The people I consulted on my rear end are also THE people to see around here (the "experts"). They basically said that most of horror tales of c-clip eliminators are old and that most of the inherant problems have been solved over the years with improved materials and design changes. We'll see I guess - Time will tell...
i looked at it this way.....

Ford nine inches leaking at the axles at the track...None

C clip elims leaking at the track.......... all

Same cost, better results
Originally posted by Trbobuick
i looked at it this way.....

Ford nine inches leaking at the axles at the track...None

C clip elims leaking at the track.......... all

Same cost, better results

This is a brash statement...
-mine doesn't leak and I'm sure alot of others don't either. "All" doesn't seem to apply. I seem to recall some one else in this post who has had them for a while with ZERO problems.

-Same cost? WRONG - can you do the Ford 9" ends for $400.00?

Have you even seen a recent set of C-clip eliminators? Have you ever used them (not heard/known someone who has)? Have you ever installed them? If so, did you take the time to do it right?

Maybe in the future I might concure, but for now, I'd say your statment is somewhat unfounded.

There is more than one way to skin a cat.
I have the Ford Weld in axles and they are sweet:D
I've seen friends in the past have problems with there c/clips eliminators, with leaking and such. If u want to go the eliminators route I don't see a problem They'll eventually leak at sometime.
Ok, Ok, I'm open minded...educate me.

Where do the C-clip elim. leak?

Maybe I just don't understand the problem(since I've never had mine leak).
Is it at the mounting plate or the axle seal? If at the axle seal - yeah, that's gonna suck and not much can be done about it (other than the ford ends).
Is it at the plate (bearing housing @ axle housing mount point?) This would be install related and can be remedied.

I'm just curious. I know it sounds like I'm trying to be difficult - I'm really not. I just fail to see how, when installed correctly, they will leak.
Bearing failure? Yeah, I expect that but, I knew it when going into the project.

Thanks for all the input and lively discussion...
My friends Camaro C/clip eliminators leaked at the seal. He had 8000 miles on his. But his car was a daily driver and drove the car like Nascar. I don't know how everbody else drives but his was due to hard driving and corning. I never seen the new style but if its true and if it has Two O rings a outer and inner that would prevent leaking.:)