C4 Vette that hasn't run in 20 years

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lnkncontiverto

Feel my Pacifists-of-Fury
Joined
Jun 19, 2008
Messages
730
A bit of a question for anyone with experience with these. I will be firing up a 1985 C4 Corvette (L98/4spd) that hasn't been run in probably two decades:eek:. The car is nearly flawless with <5k miles on the clock. Stored in a dry non-heated garage.

First off, it's not mine, I'm just helping out a mechanically disinclined relative that inherited this.

Prior to the first start-up, I plan to dust the cylinders with a little WD-40 to loosen things up and turn it over by hand to make sure everything is smooth. Short of that, what else do you suggest prior to turning the key?

I'm wondering if there are things I should do to get this ready for some mild/occasional driving besides an oil change, battery, and new fluids for the radiator/trans/rear end?

P.S. I'm definitely geeked to go for a joy ride in this once its fully operational. It's basically a new car, so I can't wait to feel like Dan Merino or David Hasselhoff or (insert late '80's icon) hooning around in this thing. :cool:
 
change the fluids- oil, trans, coolant, gas, etc.
pull the distributor and use a good priming tool to prime the system. if you don't have one, you can make one out of any junk small block chev distributor pretty easily- just take the gear off and remove all the advance stuff off the top and chuck it into a 1/2" drill. put the drill in reverse and keep it going while you spin the motor over by had a couple of revolutions.
put the distributor back in and fire it up. treat it like a new motor for a while- keep the rpm's up in the 2000-3000 range for a few minutes. to keep oil spalshed on the cam and what not.
if it makes it thru that without any problems, then set the timing and drive it nice for a couple of hundred miles. then change the oil and drive it like a normal car.
 
U can make a safe bet that the fuel system needs to be completely disassembled, cleaned, and reassembled.. Clean injs, replace fuel filter, clean tank, blow out the lines, rails....
 
Be sure to pull the distributor and prime it. Id pump as much of the fuel out as possible and pour in some fresh fuel. If it comes out brown you will need to replace the tank. You should be ready to fire it up after that.
 
Thanks guys for the input. Does anyone know where I can get a priming tool at? I don't have too many extra distributors on my garage floor. I'll make sure and get that tank drained. As for the whole fuel system, I will see how much I can get the owner to do on his own...
 
Thanks guys for the input. Does anyone know where I can get a priming tool at? I don't have too many extra distributors on my garage floor. I'll make sure and get that tank drained. As for the whole fuel system, I will see how much I can get the owner to do on his own...
if you were closer, i'd give you one of my old distributors- i've got 3 or 4 old points style distributors, a couple of large cap hei's, and a few later model small cap HEI's that will probably never get used. now that i think about it, the later model small cap HEI would work the best to make a priming tool out of, since there is no advance mechanism of any kind and the rotor just slips onto the end of the shaft- which is about the perfect size to chuck into a drill with no screwing around or machining of any kind.
 
Just about everything's been covered. Most important is clean fuel and a primed engine. Should run good once running. The 85s ran very strong, some say the strongest of all the TPI cars.
 
84 or 85 350's had a steel crank, x rods and factory TRW pistons. Mine did. I would get a new updated chip cut for it too. :cool:
 
Go ahead and install a new fuel pump, Racetronix has a complet kit with gasket new hose etc. Changes out with tank in car! 1hr job!!!
 
advance, autozone... about 20 bucks.

Autozone also rents the primer tool out - you pay for it and return it and get the $ back, they do this for many tools.

The good news is the small block chevy tool works on our trusty 3.8 as well.
 
^Thanks, I would have never thought to ask if they had a rental.

Coincidentally, the same relative also has just sold his inherited 1975 Vette that has been in storage for 30+ years with also only 5k miles. This one; however, has some underside rust and the paint is bad (cracking and faded all over the ft/rr plastic bumpers + smaller cracks on fiberglass). The brakes are frozen all the way 'round and the buyer is working his ass off trying to get it to roll onto his trailer. It is amazing the night and day difference in the condition of the two stored cars.
 
^Thanks, I would have never thought to ask if they had a rental.

Coincidentally, the same relative also has just sold his inherited 1975 Vette that has been in storage for 30+ years with also only 5k miles. This one; however, has some underside rust and the paint is bad (cracking and faded all over the ft/rr plastic bumpers + smaller cracks on fiberglass). The brakes are frozen all the way 'round and the buyer is working his ass off trying to get it to roll onto his trailer. It is amazing the night and day difference in the condition of the two stored cars.

to get the car to roll, take off the brake calipers and use a c clamp to open them up a little bit. then put them back on and try not to use the brakes when loading or unloading the car.
 
CHECK THE BRAKES, BRAKE LINES AND FLUID.

After 20 years the flex lines could break as soon as you turn the steering wheel.
 
L-98s are good engines. My Dad has one in his Greenwood 85' Vette. Never had a problem from it except for valve seals, were to hard from the factory and it would puff a bit of smoke when first cranking. He replaced those and all is good with it. Very torque strong engines! He has had the car since about 89 by the way.
 
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