If you have a cam with a .026 lash setting spec and you run it there, then yes it will sound like a sewing machine. If you set it at a snug .020(Hot) or .015 cold if you have alum heads(which will be .020 hot), the valve train will be just as quiet as any Hydraulic. This is how I set anything on the street. It is very reliable, quiet, and runs for at least a year in a daily driver on one valve lash setting(as long as the rocker arms are locked down good and tight with good parts, even on stud mounted rockers with good studs and poly locks.)
In a case of Shaft Rockers(which are a much better way to do it than stud rockers), about the only time there are big problems is when someone was not checking things and paying attention during assembly, or they simply have inferior components.
Solid Lifter cams be them Flat Tappet or Roller, can deviate from the lash spec by .008-.010 over or under. In the case of a tight lash spec of say .015, you have more like .005 or less to play with.
In the case of Solid Roller Cams and the stiff springs/higher inertia loads, I have all but eliminated any high rpm endurance related issues by stepping up the pushrod stiffness with either more wall thickness, fatter rods, or both. Power is up, and the valve jobs look MUCH better at the end of a race season, too.
I know much of what I have said here has been unrelated to More Boost's question. However, I wish to help anyone out. If I can also help to shed some light on the underlying and hidden causes of problems which result in continual feeding of myths about Solid Lifter cams, then I am all for it.
I can't think of a single customer who after following my suggestions on proper component selection, set up, and break-in has ever looked back in hind sight regretting it. Most had never used anything other than a Hydraulic cam previously. It is so cool to hear them freak out about how much more alive their car or boat is. It is even cooler when at a car show, I hear some inqusitive individual asking them how often they have to adjust valves. To the individual's shocking dismay, I'll hear a client say with great enthusiasim and confidence "oh, hardly ever. I think in the last 2 years, I've had to set them twice. I initially checked them 4-5 times in the first week because I didn't believe it either. Then I quit messing with it because I know better now."
I have been known to tell people upfront that I will give them a full refund if after doing it my way, and they find that they're not satisfied. It is hard for some to pass on an offer like that.
In my opinion(based on lots of experience with this sort of stuff all over the world), I feel that anyone who is planning to set up their valvetrain and run a Solid Roller is asking for problems with any pushrod having less than .125 wall thickness. Especially if it is a 5/16 dia. pushrod. For crazy stuff, you'll be doing yourself a BIG favor investing in fat pushrods with thick walls.
so I am gonna give it a shot. Went ahead and split the difference of the 208 and 218 cams and went with the 212/212 on a 112 cam. If it runs good I will be happy, if not then yeah I am gonna spray the **** out of it 
