Cam question for the group

[Mr.Spool]

Nevermind I just read the file.
There are some different ways you could go but I dont know how fast you want to go.

 

[Mr.Spool]

I dont see converter specs
But the 3.73 gear will run down your rpm range up top in 3rd.
Swapping the gear ratio to a 3.42/3.23 and leaving on more rpm and boost to mack up for the torque loss will extend your rpm range up top.

 

[Mr.Spool]

What ki d of 60fts are you seeing?

 

[Pronto]

I've seen 3.42s in the 8s...

 

[RichieRocket]

What ki d of 60fts are you seeing?

Best on foot brake was 1.7xx

 

[TIMINATOR]

I have an extra set of new 1.65 rockers and shaft assys. But you still need springs INMHO.
TIMINATOR

 

[Mr.Spool]

I have an extra set of new 1.65 rockers and shaft assys. But you still need springs INMHO.
TIMINATOR

He definitely seems light on the spring to me as well.

 

[Mr.Spool]

Best on foot brake was 1.7xx

That's gotta change
Your leaving a ton of et on the table.
The springs are the easiest to change as stated
Then work the 60ft set the car up to leave correctly.

 

[RichieRocket]

That's gotta change
Your leaving a ton of et on the table.
The springs are the easiest to change as stated
Then work the 60ft set the car up to leave correctly.

That’s the idea behind the changes. Just looking at changing things that will improve the entire combo while I have it apart for new rings, timing chain, trans refresh, etc..

 

[RichieRocket]

He definitely seems light on the spring to me as well.

So 140# springs seem light?

 

[TIMINATOR]

I'd do the Comps. At 1.70" they come out at 160 or so new. (beehives) They ain't gettin any stronger with use. I set them up with Ersons at 135 or 140 for mild street under 20/25 lbs and under 6000 rpm.
Titanium retainers for racin and steel for the street, under 25 boost and below 6000.
Not tryin to be pushy, but you did ask...
You are leaving a lot on the table.....
TIMINATOR

 

[TIMINATOR]

So 140# springs seem light?

For your combo, yes. Reread about boost pressure under the intake valve, and exhaust pressure under the exhaust valve. Timm

 

[RichieRocket]

For your combo, yes. Reread about boost pressure under the intake valve, and exhaust pressure under the exhaust valve. Timm

So 160s should set in about 148-150# after break in?…

 

[TIMINATOR]

So 160s should set in about 148-150# after break in?…

The comps dont seem to lose as much as lesser quality springs do. And besides, they are pretty! And dont forget those shiney polished titanium retainers!
The Ti retainers are lighter, so they act like the spring has another 5# or so on it, but without the load on the lifter. Thats also the idea also behind beehives, the smaller diameter and thinner retainer, and smaller diameter top of the spring has less inertial load to close itself and the valve.
While we are on valves, front cuts, back cuts, and reduced stem and underhead diameter not only aid flow, but reduce the oscillating mass of the valve, reducing the spring requirements, AND adding HP and RPM capabilities.
The weight of the entire valvetrain also changes the requirements for spring pressure. It is hard to compare what mine or Mr. Spools springs will do in relation to yours. If we cant find 50 HP in one place, we will find 1 hp in 50 places. I like to do more with less. Weight, for one thing...
Everywhere rotating and oscillating makes more difference than static weight. I also detailed the block and heads everywhere and lost enough weight to make up for my power windows! Just sayin'
Refer to my old Chevelle in other posts...
TIMINATOR

 

[RichieRocket]

Yeah at peer tech my car was 3780#. I’m not going to find 340 # worth of stuff to cut off of the car but I agree, rotating weight is a hp killer. From the build sheet, the original builder did a great job with quality parts and tolerances on the build. I think what I have in mind for it will put me into the low 9s high 8s. About 5 or 6 changes coming during the refresh should do it. Almost doubling the injectors as well for the e85.

 

[Pronto]

If you want to run those time you pretty much have to lose a good portion of that weight. It will make your car more of a race car than street car but that is the sacrifice.

 

[RichieRocket]

Yeah will be doing some weight reduction but also adding performance. My car has an 8.5 cage so I figure that is where the extra weight is coming from. I can also go with an in trunk tank and get rid of the factory tank but that limits some classes in the Nats and that is the only event I am running the car in. So I had 13 gals. Of fuel at peer tech that can mostly be eliminated “if” I decide to go TSO and not run TSM and TPB. That would also eliminate all the exhaust weight.

 

[RichieRocket]

I appreciate all the folks that are offering up recipes for success. I do absorb everything folks offer so I don’t repeat their mistakes and I attempt to replicate their formulas for success. Not just with cars or engines either. Life experiences and lessons learned information/war stories are very enriching as well.. Will offer updates as the refresh comes together. So I will just forget about a cam that is more comfortable at 6500 and buy a Tesla, sell the GN and ask Don to build me a $250.000.00 TSO car.

 

[TIMINATOR]

I would NEVER do or suggest for you to drop and steam clean the tank, remove the top, install a 5 or 6 gallon aluminum tank, at the inside rear of the tank fed by the original fuel filler with the fuel pump inside, and reinstall the top of the original tank with pop rivets and tabs. That wouldn't be nice, but it would move the fuel and pump farther to the rear for better traction. And allow yiu to carry less fuel.
Ya want stories? I used to race c/or b dragster, and a bunch of stock eliminator classes too. The "creative engineering" would make you never want to compete (legally) again. I am also located near the NASCAR track west of Phoenix,AZ. What I have seen those guys do, and what caused their "sudden retirement" rather than embarrass NASCAR and NHRA would curl your hair! The NO PREP drags and STREET OUTLAWS guys have been in here too. YOU WOULD NOT BELIEVE ME!!!
Same with the " numbers matching" auction cars!
And ya'all think politicians are dirty?
NHRA techs better than most other santioning bodies, but I have seen a lot get by them too, and for longer than you would believe! I have also built a LOT of illegal street drag cars. Mexican illegal street race cars have some of the coolest ways to cheat that you have never seen! Two come to mind that I built for the same guy made back the cost of the car and builds in the first three weeks!
Mebbie I'll just write a book.
Sorry for the thread jack, but ya did ask for stories.
TIMINATOR
P.S. I dont race any sanctioned events anymore, but I have teched, and trained techs for a few tracks. Names with held due to confidentially agreements.
Smokey Yunick, an aquaintance before his passing, said: "unless it is specifically
noted as illegal, it must be allowed."
That DOES give a lot of leeway. (I said that.)

 

[Mr.Spool]

So 140# springs seem light?

If you want to spin it under boost.
I've taken 109s up to 72/7500.