Cam sensor code 41...and backfires after being under load

[bigmac_ns]

Was having some intermittent driveability issues...seemed the car would buck or miss after I gave it a good run. The code that eventually flashed was the cam sensor. I changed that...and the IAC as well :biggrin: after I cracked that off trying to pull of the plug.

I set the cam sensor as mentioned on gnttype..it was dead easy. The car fired right up with a LOT of valvetrain noise...so much I shut it off and called people for advice but it went away when it got good liquid to the valvecovers. I let the car idle for a while then just took it out for a shakedown run. It worked fine for the first 10km as I took it easy...then on the way back I started getting a little hard on it. I didn't have the scan tool hooked up and never got over 15psi...but it started to miss/buck after a quick dig by Tims. Then I let it run a bit more down a couple straightaways...and the light came on. I'm pretty sure it was the same code as it was doing the exact same buck/miss/died at the end of my road.

Could this be caused by something else? I've got a MAFTpro that I've wired in...IMO loose wiring issues shouldn't come and go with load...am I correct? I was wondering if maybe the timing chain was slack enough to cause an error b/t it and the crankshaft sensor? Is there a tensioner on this chain?

Any suggestions? I'm getting near my wits end.

Ford Family pricing is in effect for 2 more weeks and I'm thinking of ditching my two 8yr projects for a new diesel 4x4 because I'm sick of walking home.

 

[bigmac_ns]

Let me add a bit more info.... the car had to be towed home a week ago due to the cam sensor failure. Then..after it cooled down, it fired up and I could drive it again...just until it got warm again...and again the code would flash and the SES light would come on. Well, last night was no different and I made with to within 1/2mile of home and had to walk home. ALSO..the SES light would go off after a few seconds of throttle, but come back on again as I coasted down. Last night it died and wouldn't run...so i walked home and this morning it fired right up and ran perfect...drove it home with no light on in the dash.

HELP. Its amazing how my love for these things since the day they were made can slowly get tainted by simple problems.

I'm curious if its a an issue with the Pro. Going to call FT today, maybe they have insight. I would expect its my own fault someplace, but I just am running out of ideas.

 

[bigmac_ns]

Anyone? I'm really close to giving this up...

 

[bigmac_ns]

I could really use some insight...

I checked the entire harness last night with exception of the part inside the cover on the drivers side valve cover (which shouldn't have moved or changed). I checked all my connections at the ECM and re-soldered any questionable and the 4 plug connectors I used. Quality liquid electrical tape on all connections and no moisture found anywhere. Found a couple wires behind my glovebox that I think are unrelated to vehicle operation that needed a nick repaired and cut and soldered them as well.

Drove it, it ran excellent. I drove the wheels off it as every other time I take it easy for the first 10min... This time I pounded it from the start to get it hot right away to find out if that was the problem. It ran great. For 30min...then I was heading home to bed to call it quits and started driving easy again and that SES light came on and it stumbled once and the light stayed on. (I figure it switched from SFI to batch there)... once I got inside the garage I put it in park and instantly the light went out.

Also...during the drive I changed settings many times on the MAFTPRO...and it flashed the memory every time and made the changes. I don't think its the ECM or the Pro but I'm not sure.

Could this be a ground issue? Could I be building up a charge someplace? Why would it disappear when I put it in park?

Any insight at all would be really helpful. I'd like to put this behind me so I have a daily driver and can get started on my truck repairs.

 

[machinegun]

classic signs of a possible bad ignition module. Find someone who has a good one and borrow it and see if this fixes the problem. Some have used the GP sorenson ones but I have had much better luck with AC delco ones.

Something else to check are the grounds to the back of te block on the passenger side. These will sometimes come loose or break causing some very weird issues.

 

[TurboBuRick]

1.Cam sensor cap replaced

2.Crank sensor I would try next

3.Coil-pak module if the problem presist.

The three things that will put you through hell.
The wires from the crank sensor and coilpack go to the module and run up the drivers side cover. Unplug the sensors and the module. Ohm out each wire. If everything checks out go back to #2.:biggrin:

Good luck and don't give up your on your game!

 

[bigmac_ns]

Thanks!

I changed the plugs and found bit of corrosion under the #5 and #3 prong on the coil pack. The coil pack was brand new 6 years ago LOL...about 5000km ago. I've a gut feeling that passenger side ground is the issue as well. What an expensive way to find out....

Anyone else have any more input?

 

[andy82]

Mine kinda had the same problem Mine would buck and miss on low boost .As soon as it started to make boost it would do it .I thought it was the plugs or wires changed them and it still did it.I unplugged the cam sensor and it would run fine.I took off the cam sensor top and I could turn the ring on top around with my hand .The little tab on the ring broke off and had the sensor timing off.Im waiting for my new one to come in. Its funny because it was running fine the weekend before ,Raced a big block on n20 the week before glad it didn't happen then .

 

[bigmac_ns]

Gremlins... I hate them. I replaced the cam sensor based on what I read and the input from Turbolink. I figured it was Preventative Maintenance if it didn't work. I can imagine what would happen to the motor if it loaded up and popped at full load. I had one backfire at near idle after coasting from a high speed down to a near crawl and touching the gas pedal that near blew the exhaust off the car. Flames came out and major black smoke...UNREAL. Towed home that night.

 

[bigmac_ns]

Big grounds galore now...and it still threw the code. Have a crankshaft sensor arriving tomorrow and will order a module then.

 

[TurboBuRick]

 

[bigmac_ns]

I think its fixed

:smile:

Not sure what it was exactly, but I checked the resistance on the wires from the cam sensor to the ignition module...no problems. Installed a new cam sensor and mount (didn't have a feeler gauge so I had to guess-timate which scared me) but I was sure there was no contact.

Replaced my engine tie-down strap with a new beefer strap and fired it up.

I pounded the guts out of it trying to get it to act up...nothing. It was the same as every other night (ie 12-1:00 am about 18deg C outside) and the car worked fine. I drove about 45 minutes last night without a hiccup.

So...I'm not sure but if you hit this post on a search, add check engine tie-down strap, cam sensor and wiring check to your list of things to troubleshoot.

Now, its time to tackle my boost creep issues and the alky kit install.

 

[TurboBuRick]

You mean crank sensor?

 

[bigmac_ns]

Yea... sorry about that Crank sensor. LOL