Anybody in the Houston area able to help with priming the oil pump And re-setting the cam sensor? I know it's pretty basic, but it's uncharted territory for me and would love to have some help. The intake piping is off and it's ready to work on. I don't have the sensor setting tool, and probably don't have a socket to fit the crank pulley. I am northwest of Houston towards Tomball.
Cam sensor / oil pump priming help in houston
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GBGN1
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I've got the cam sensor tool Dan you can borrow it or I can set it up for you, think I might need that pedal anyway. Let me know
Chris McDade
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I can help...I live in Richmond.
Chris McDade
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- Jul 13, 2001
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- 1,840
Dan,
If you can't get it going let me know. Call me on my cell 281-853-5465
If you can't get it going let me know. Call me on my cell 281-853-5465
It's not always convenient to set the cam sensor by the book but here's what works. Pull num. one spark plug, Have an assistant tap the starter with your finger over the plug hole when you feel compression lifting your finger take a wrench rotate the engine by hand & line up the timing mark on the pointer below. with the cam sensor cap off observe the position of the reluctor. Thats the cupped disc with a window cut out of it. It should be facing towards the power steering pump . In the middle of the reluctor is a screw opposite the screw is a tang that locks the reluctor to the shaft. Loosen the cam sensor hold down bolt now rotate the sensor so the tang lines up with the cap index slot & you will be within a few degrees of perfect. Bear in mind that you could get the sensor 180 off & it will run but not well. So its important to time the sensor with the engine on number one TDC compression stroke. As for priming the engine you need to make a tool out of an old cam sensor or perhaps an old SBC distributor housing & shaft. once that is done rotate the oil pump shaft with a long screw driver till the cam sensor goes in the right position with the reluctor cut out facing the P/S pump. If you get confused you can call me at 949-378-1590 Lou
Thanks for the help and advice guys. I talked to one of the locals and based on our talk, I decided I probably hadn't lost the prime. I didn't have the cover off or anything, it's just been sitting awhile. I unplugged the ECM power and cranked the motor over until oil came out the new feed line. I was surprised at how quickly it ended up coming out. Only about 4-5 seconds of crank time. Knowing there was circulation, I plugged the ECM in and fired it up.
I really appreciate the advice. It will really come in handy when I get around to doing that front cover, rear main, timing set, and pan gasket.
I really appreciate the advice. It will really come in handy when I get around to doing that front cover, rear main, timing set, and pan gasket.
I've seen quite a few set up this way. You can fine tune it after you confirm it runs right by first it shutting off and advancing or retarding some and restarting. It'll start marginally quicker if timed closer to perfect. I prefer this method over the tool or led cap. I have a TR6 ignition module that shows the sensor as well, but I'm just used to doing it the old fashion way; works every time though.
Thanks again to all. She's all back together and running again...rather strong. Don't know why but the new turbo from bison (just a stock one with his special improvements) seems to boost a few psi over what the old one did. I got about 25-26 out of it when the old one would only push 22-23. Definitely not complaining. I need to add some fuel, pull a shade of timing and hook up the PL to see what my IDC is doing.
My list of "wants" keeps growing.
My list of "wants" keeps growing.
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