can some one tell me whats wrong with this log?

[josh rosaaen]

the car seems to have no bottom end power takes off real slow cant even spin the tires.

 

[LelandLs6]

Idk about for anyone else but it won't let me view the file..

 

[RmvBfrFlght]

When you opened the throttle the AFR went dead lean. It wasn't until a few pounds of boost built that the NB O2 reported greater then 67 mv. At which time it went right to 772 mv, the graph is nearly straight up. You don't have listed what chip or such is being used, but if the fuel system delivery is OK, then it needs tuning.

It may also be that the lack of fuel is being covered by the alky kit. IOW, the AFR finally goes to the rich side of stoich once the alky turns on.

I noted the Hooker headers, it has posted here that they have a large volume which causes a slower then normal spool. But fix the AFR issue first.

RemoveBeforeFlight

 

[josh rosaaen]

i have a turbo tweak chip for the 80lb inj and alky. the fuel pressure stays at 43lbs the whole time. i have an inline pump in there now. i have a red armstrong dp that i havent installed yet still trying to figure out the wiring on it. there is no one even close to here that knows anything about tuning so i have to try and do it my self and not sure how.

 

[RmvBfrFlght]

You may be able to add fuel via the TT chip. I don't know a lot about the various ones Eric offers.

> the fuel pressure stays at 43lbs the whole time.

This may be an issue, by staying at 43 psi at all times, is this even off the throttle (decel) and while in boost? If so that is a problem that needs to be corrected. The fuel pressure should track the intake manifold pressure, going lower on decel, and rising 1:1 with boost.

RemoveBeforeFlight

 

[josh rosaaen]

ill make a run and try it i know its 43lb at idile ill watch it. i think i can add fuel with the chip just have to figure it out

 

[earlbrown]

You can't add fuel pressure with the chip. If your base pressure is 43, it should drop a few pounds when you put the vacuum line back on... does it?


and for every pound of boost you make it should go up that many pounds above 43... does it?

 

[josh rosaaen]

it drops to around 41 when vacuum line is plugged in

 

[earlbrown]

that's not enough. If your gauge is accurate, you're idling at 4"Hg of vacuum. It's time to start inspecting your fuel delivery system and your reference signal to the FPR.

 

[RmvBfrFlght]

that's not enough. If your gauge is accurate, you're idling at 4"Hg of vacuum. It's time to start inspecting your fuel delivery system and your reference signal to the FPR.

My thought is that the return line is too restrictive for the pump(s) being run. Josh, check and double check that the pressure rises 1:1 with boost.

RemoveBeforeFlight

 

[josh rosaaen]

I'll take it and check it under boost. You mean check the vacuum line going to the fpr. There just stock fuel lines that's why I got the dp cause I heard it's suppose to work for the stock lines just haven't got it in yet. Would my maf have anything to do with it? It's just a stock one


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[RmvBfrFlght]

I'll take it and check it under boost. You mean check the vacuum line going to the fpr.

The actual fuel pressure needs to be checked. With a base of 43 psi, at 10 psi of boost the fuel pressure needs to be 43 + 10 = 53 psi.

There just stock fuel lines that's why I got the dp cause I heard it's suppose to work for the stock lines just haven't got it in yet.

It may or may not, your sig shows an inline booster pump, it may be too much for the tiny 1/4" return line to handle. This is what drives the idle fuel pressure up.

Would my maf have anything to do with it? It's just a stock one

I have no idea, I can only see what I see in the log file.

RemoveBeforeFlight

 

[josh rosaaen]

the fuel pressure does rise with boost
heres another pull
have bigger problems now the engine is ticking after that so i think im screwed

 

[earlbrown]

If you're lucky you have a broken rocker shaft. I'm pretty sure your camera mic didn't catch the sound perfectly accurately and I know my laptop speaker can't be accurate as well.

If you have an oil pressure gauge, has the reading tanked?

 

[josh rosaaen]

No it still had oil pressure just goes down when it's all warmed up

 

[josh rosaaen]

Should I just pull the valve covers and check the lifters. Some one said it might be the cam sensor could that make the noise?

 

[earlbrown]

If it's a rod knock he noise should be based around the oil pan, a rocker shaft should sound like it's under one of the valve covers....


BUT!!! It is NOT uncommon for engine rattles to throw their voice.

Pop a valve cover off and see if one of the shafts are curled up on the end. Or even luckier a bent pushrod.

 

[LelandLs6]

Take a long screw driver or a somewhat long hose hold one end towards your ear and the other placed on top your valve cover.

Move around basically over every rocker and try and listen carefully of the ticking is coming from there.

I don't want to try and get your hopes up but from the video that sounds like my car when all my header bolts backed out and we're leaking from there so just double check if you haven't already???

And if you can't really tell if the noise is up top with a hose or whatever you use you can't still pull valve covers off to make sure none of your push rods or rockers are lose/broken...

Good luck hope it's not serious damage.

 

[josh rosaaen]

i couldnt tell if it was the intake or passenger side it was coming from so i pulled the valve covers and checked and they all had a little wiggle except the two on the passenger side that seemed to be locked up?

 

[LelandLs6]

The two you tried to move were probly being compressed by your cam so it would explain them not being so loose, did you happen to check your pushrods also? Lose broken bent?