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caps or girdle????

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hipsi2fly

9sec109
Joined
Dec 8, 2003
Messages
154
well, i just purchased all 4 caps from another member on the board. i was using the rjc girdle when the crank broke on my last motor. i am trying to decide which to use so, i am looking for opinion to help me out i have both of them, so $$$$ isnt a ?(for the initial purchase) i know i gotta fork out some cash for the line bore on the caps,and i would also have to go to arp to get a bolt kit for the girdle which isnt cheap either! sooooooo lemme know your thoughts or experiences---------this buildup is a 109 block w/ 500 rwhp--give or take a few...
 
I agree with the overkill route. If I had it to do over I would put a girdle on mine.If mine breaks its time for a TA alum shortblock:D
 
Caps and a steel crank. and I'm hoping to find enough in the couch cushions after the hollidays for the TA block..
 
Reply to hipsi2fly...

Hipsi2fly, I would use the caps only, because even though the girdle isn't bad, it has a tendancy to always leak oil!....Just an opinion though....

'bye...

Claude .
 
Whats the average price difference from doing caps with a line bore versus doing the girdle?
 
i thought of using both but have been told buy a few the caps were more than enough (all 4) and your right the girdle does leak weve tried everything and its a pain b/c the damn studs always break or pull out...
 
rather leak oil then break the crank

Use the caps and girdle, thats what im going with. do it right the first time and never look back!

HTH
 
I've had both, and I can tell you with certainty on a stock block it isn't worth squat IMHO. Steel caps and a good crank is all you need. You can change bearings and inspect things quite easily without the girdle, whereas with the girdle it's a little more "tricky".

I pulled that unit off of my 109 block and haven't looked back. I am not talking down the quality of the girdle; I'm speaking of the frustrations I've experienced as a result of having it installed.

I guess to sum it all up the 109 block will do fine with caps, a crank, and the proper machine work for all of the above.
 
before i put my girdle on i had a small groove cut all around with cnc machine and put some sylicone on it not one drop of oil on the floor,
 
I'v ehad my girdle in and out at least 6 times and it has never leaked. The DAMN studs for the pan rail have broken off though, and they cost almost $100 a piece to have them machined out!!! :( But I think it's a hit or miss thing as far as the girdle leaking. Maybe I have the blessed one that doesn't leak. Who knows......

Derrick
 
tazgn

Well if your looking to make around 500hp, I did it with the stock caps and crank. The car made 505RWHP... guess I've just been lucky. I went with just a girdle on the new block... only difference is that I have a steel crank. Seems to me like just personal preference.
 
Did the crank break due to a girdle issue, or just becusae the snot had been beaten out of it?

I'd do a STD STD new crank and caps if I had the choice.
 
We came up wit a way that the girdle doesnt leak at all. If your interested in the changes required, lemme know. This method i have also increases stregnth. of mains and skirt.
 
I ran a girdle for 3 years with no leaks. Just used black RTV and it sealed just fine.
 
PhilM, I would be interested in the changes you made since I am running center caps and a girdle. No oil problems yet (fingers crossed). Send me an e-mail. TIA
 
My technique is similar to gndrager's except we mill off caps and skirt surfaces. you want the "o-ring" type groove to hold the silione, though.
 
To see my changes and other engine stuff, check out my site at:

My Website

warning though: the site is still pretty crappy.
 
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