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car dies when i put it in gear

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jcuadra

Active Member
Joined
Jul 7, 2008
Messages
468
took the car out to tday noticed that it would kind of jerk/misfire... as if it was guna die when i was giving it gas then it just shut off. started right back up and went home popped the hood and noticed that the vacum line that goes to the fpr was disconnected. i pluged it back in and now everytime i put the car in gear it idels really rough and dies :mad: :confused:
what could it be?
 
what are the symptoms of a bad converter?
couple of my buddies said it mite be an o2 sensor because a couple days ago was my first time pumping 100 octane in the car
 
IAC - getting any codes? - Check minimum air rate and do IAC reset.

Torque converter solenoid failure will make the car buck when coming to a stop and sometimes stall out when coming to a stop.
 
its not really a bucking... its more like the idle is really rough kinda like as if i have a super hot cam and then the car just dies... this only happens when its in gear.. when its in park it feel fine

i also noticed the when i try to get on the converter/stall it starts to die as soon as its about to get into boost
 
You may just have to check everything, mine did that just before a race, and all it was is that the screen fell out of the MAF, so check everything.
 
so i check all vaccume lines, checked all connections, unpluged the little orange wire by the battery and did a comperssion test for the hell of it (i had not done a compression test on the car since it was purchased) i pluged the orange wire back in started the car and everything was fine. left it running and warm all the way up and everything was fine.:confused: maybe it just need the computer to be restarted?
 
yea i checked it and it was fine but now it runs good when its cold and once it gets hot and you give it gas it starts stutering/ hesitatding while the rpms go up
 
Check the crank sensor for signs of contact with interrupter ring. Replace if it has. An iac would gradually fail. Crank sensors will screw-up after first contact.
 
so i check all vaccume lines, checked all connections, unpluged the little orange wire by the battery and did a comperssion test for the hell of it (i had not done a compression test on the car since it was purchased) i pluged the orange wire back in started the car and everything was fine. left it running and warm all the way up and everything was fine.:confused: maybe it just need the computer to be restarted?


What likely happened when the vacuum line came loose from the FPR is that one or more of the BLM cells got forced way high (massive vacuum leaks do that), and just putting the line back on caused issues because of the whacked out BLM cells not having a chance to relearn. When you unplugged the ECM all the cells reset to 128 which is an easier place to relearn from than 150!
 
My car did that once, like you described in the beginning of this thread and it turned out to be a bad tps - throttle position sensor.
 
yes it will build boost but when you get on it as the rpms and boost are going up it kinda sputers/ hesitates and it only starts doing this after ive been driving for about 15 mins and the car is hot. i took it around the block a couple times when it was cold and i gave it some gas and it was running like a champ but as soon as it gets warmed up it starts to stuter/ misfifire (dont really know how to discribe it)
 
I have a similar problem with mine. The first symptoms began when the car would reach above 170 degrees in temperature the car would die while driving. I was able to start it back up while in motion. Then it came one day when the car just died while drining and didn't start back up. The car would fire up and it would choke and die. There is fuel pressure. I replaced the crank sensor because there was wear in it. The same thing. Car would start and choke. I also replaced the cam sensor and did not change. I borrowed ignition coils from running cars to verify if the coil pack was the problem and that didn't fix it. I am running out of options. I gets frustuating:mad:
 
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