I have tried swapping the ignition, coil, plug wires, plugs and MAT. The car will warm up to 188-200F with the ac on in trafic. Stoped for gas wouldent start afterward. let it cool down and fired right up. Has done this 5 times so far. If I let the the car sit for a long time there is no problem at all. Any Ideas?
Car refuses to start when Hot
- Thread starter BradWE4
- Start date
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Intercooler
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- May 24, 2001
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Starter
Go to your favorite parts store and pick one up. Swap it making sure not to butcher the new one up. If it doesn't fix the problem, take it back
Go to your favorite parts store and pick one up. Swap it making sure not to butcher the new one up. If it doesn't fix the problem, take it back
Sounds like the starter, but...
First question, does it turn over but not fire, or does it not turn over at all when hot?
If it doesn't turn over at all when hot, that is related to the starter. Pretty common on GM products. Replace the starter and solenoid (AC Delco stuff will last longer than AutoZone but lifetime warranty at AutoZone is pretty cool if you don't mind the labor every couple years or so, and they're cheaper). Also, check all your wiring. I replaced what I thought was a bad starter on my Suburban, turned out to be a loose ground. Also, check the wiring under the dash. My GN had about 3 feet of extra wire on the lead to the solenoid, some fool's attempt at a starter kill switch, and if the car got over about 180 it wouldn't even come close to starting.
Oh yeah, and you better have good battery cables, too.
Good luck...
Jeff
First question, does it turn over but not fire, or does it not turn over at all when hot?
If it doesn't turn over at all when hot, that is related to the starter. Pretty common on GM products. Replace the starter and solenoid (AC Delco stuff will last longer than AutoZone but lifetime warranty at AutoZone is pretty cool if you don't mind the labor every couple years or so, and they're cheaper). Also, check all your wiring. I replaced what I thought was a bad starter on my Suburban, turned out to be a loose ground. Also, check the wiring under the dash. My GN had about 3 feet of extra wire on the lead to the solenoid, some fool's attempt at a starter kill switch, and if the car got over about 180 it wouldn't even come close to starting.
Oh yeah, and you better have good battery cables, too.
Good luck...
Jeff
Car will crank normally or possibly a little bit slower than normal and almost start but not quite. I have a heat shield on the starter, TTA's came with them. I was told that the starters failed because of heat but I thought that meant they would not turn the car over at all. Are there any starters (aftermarket) that can withstand heat better?
Good question Jeff
And good answer on the "no crank" condition.
When the car acts up, you need to verify battery voltage to the
solenoid wire and the starter cable while someone holds the
ign. in the crank position. If you've got power to both, it needs
a starter, if not, trace the missing voltage to the problem.
If its a crank/no start, you need to check for spark and fuel,
and go from there
And good answer on the "no crank" condition.
When the car acts up, you need to verify battery voltage to the
solenoid wire and the starter cable while someone holds the
ign. in the crank position. If you've got power to both, it needs
a starter, if not, trace the missing voltage to the problem.
If its a crank/no start, you need to check for spark and fuel,
and go from there
Still could be the starter. What happens is the bushings/bearings get hot and expand just slightly. When you crank it over there is more resistance and it will crank more slowly, making the vehicle hard to start. In your case I would suspect the starter itself. Don't bother testing the it at AutoZone or other parts house, when they are room temperature they tend to test out just fine. You can get a Duralast Gold starter from AutoZone (lifetime warrantey) for something like $40, probably what you need at this point.
I've had good luck with them.
Jeff
Just a thought... If everything with the starter checks out OK. and you are getting spark, this may be a flooding condition!
Hook up a fuel pressure guage, start the car then shut it down and see if pressure drops down rapidly. Sign of tired leaking injectors.
If it happens again before you get to check it out, floor the gas pedal and hold it down while cranking and see if it starts. If it does, it's flooding!
Just another possibility to keep in mind if all else fails.
Good Luck!
Hook up a fuel pressure guage, start the car then shut it down and see if pressure drops down rapidly. Sign of tired leaking injectors.
If it happens again before you get to check it out, floor the gas pedal and hold it down while cranking and see if it starts. If it does, it's flooding!
Just another possibility to keep in mind if all else fails.
Good Luck!
blackbuick87
Senior Member
- Joined
- Mar 11, 2002
- Messages
- 3,205
Vapor lock? have any of the fuel lines been moved or replaced?
After you get a new starter, if you just use a remote solenoid for the starter, with heavy gauge wiring, you should be good to go. (Nick Micale also mentioned this in my "starter heat soak" thread.
check this out:
http://www.novaresource.org/starter.htm
and then this:
http://www.madelectrical.com/
Also, Mike at www.turbobuicks.com sells a good ministarter.
I relocated my battery to my trunk, and the 4 gauge cable that I was using was killing my battery. Cold starts were no problem, but hot starts were forcing my battery to push all its power through a cable that was to small.
I read a lot on the subject. I am no guru, but this is what I know:
The starter/solenoid need A LOT of juice to get the car started; especially when hot.
I went all out and am using a 1/0 cable dedicated soley to the starter. I am using two solenoids that power the starter, but only when I am starting the car. One solenoid is in the trunk near the battery; this feeds the power to the front of the car when triggered by my starter wire.
The other solenoid is in the engine compartment; this acts as a remote solenoid for my starter solenoid; it feeds power to the starter/solenoid only when it gets power from the first solenoid.
I also use 1/0 cable on the grounds; Battery to chassis and body, and engine to chassis and body.
Now, I use the 4 guage cable for the alternator to battery connection only, and the 1/0 gauge cable just for the starter.
I will copy my schematic up to my web site as soon as I get a chance.
BTW, I found a great place to get 1/0 gauge cable and connectors for CHEAP.
Pacer Electronics:
800-432-0459, ask for Stacy
I got the tinned copper marine cable, but you can use the regular SAE cable if you want...it is $1 cheaper per foot...
check this out:
http://www.novaresource.org/starter.htm
and then this:
http://www.madelectrical.com/
Also, Mike at www.turbobuicks.com sells a good ministarter.
I relocated my battery to my trunk, and the 4 gauge cable that I was using was killing my battery. Cold starts were no problem, but hot starts were forcing my battery to push all its power through a cable that was to small.
I read a lot on the subject. I am no guru, but this is what I know:
The starter/solenoid need A LOT of juice to get the car started; especially when hot.
I went all out and am using a 1/0 cable dedicated soley to the starter. I am using two solenoids that power the starter, but only when I am starting the car. One solenoid is in the trunk near the battery; this feeds the power to the front of the car when triggered by my starter wire.
The other solenoid is in the engine compartment; this acts as a remote solenoid for my starter solenoid; it feeds power to the starter/solenoid only when it gets power from the first solenoid.
I also use 1/0 cable on the grounds; Battery to chassis and body, and engine to chassis and body.
Now, I use the 4 guage cable for the alternator to battery connection only, and the 1/0 gauge cable just for the starter.
I will copy my schematic up to my web site as soon as I get a chance.
BTW, I found a great place to get 1/0 gauge cable and connectors for CHEAP.
Pacer Electronics:
800-432-0459, ask for Stacy
I got the tinned copper marine cable, but you can use the regular SAE cable if you want...it is $1 cheaper per foot...
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