car stumbling, code 34... need quick help

[BlackBeauty]

Hey folks, well since I started the car after work tonight, I had been having problems. When I started the car, it fired up, then died, and jumped back to life idling around 1200rpms. Then the rpm's would go up and down. Oh well. So I start driving home, and the motor stops running all of a sudden, then a second or two later will come back on. I limped it home, as it did this a number of times... halfway home the SES light came on, and I got a code 34 from my ScanMaster, which means the ECM was getting low numbers from the MAF sensor. As I pulled into the driveway, the car turned off completely, I had to turn the key to fire it up. Then I popped the hood, tapped on the MAF while the car idled, couldn't notice any difference since the car was stumbling the whole time. Then I reset the ECM (to get rid of the code) and unplugged the MAF, car ran better but still threw another code 34. With these symptoms, what do you think I should check next? Is it a bad MAF? I have never messed with my MAF sensor, but it appears to have only one screen. Do the original MAF's have one screen at each end? I only have one screen on the filter side, no screen going to the turbo. Thanks for the help.
If you have a spare MAF around and live nearby, feel free to e-mail me! I'll try to check my e-mail, as this phone line is being cancelled tomorrow (changing to Roadrunner this weekend hopefully).

 

[gwturbo]

I recently had a MAF go bad and I had the exact same symptoms as you described. It certainly sounds like the MAF is gone. When
they go out they just go all of a sudden.
Glenn West

 

[crs]

Code 34

My guess is the MAF! Either that or your TPS is is out of whack.

 

[BlackBeauty]

Thanks for the help guys. I did a search before posting and did see that most people had similar symptoms, except for the fact that my car runs better with the MAF unplugged. Most people said their car ran even worse. But I'm still expecting most replies to tell me my MAF is bad.
I forgot to add a couple of things... TPS should be fine, I checked it this past weekend (just three days ago). And before I got to work, I got the worst knock ever (except for the one time I tried to run a race chip with 93 and alky )... ScanMaster recorded 8.4° KR with 796 o2's (recorded in same frame), which 796 sounds like a safe number. I didn't check how high the boost went, but it's set for around 16-17 (I have a PowerPlate, alky was off). More ideas are always welcome!

 

[BlackBeauty]

Anyone else wanna confirm this? Thanks.

 

[NASSTY]

BLACK BEAUTY,Are there any fellow TR owners nearby that could try a known good MAF on the car?Its best if you can try a known good part before buying parts you may not need.MAFs aren't cheap or easy to come by these days either. Good Luck

 

[BlackBeauty]

Originally posted by 2NASSTYBUICKS
BLACK BEAUTY,Are there any fellow TR owners nearby that could try a known good MAF on the car?Its best if you can try a known good part before buying parts you may not need.MAFs aren't cheap or easy to come by these days either. Good Luck

Earlier I actually posted in the FL forum to see if I could borrow a MAF. I certainly don't want to drop a lot of money down just to find out that wasn't the problem!
I am looking into the Translator+, seems like an awesome piece, but a little pricey. It's hard to figure out exactly what is needed. I think all that's necessary is:
3" LT1 MAF sensor (or 3.5" LS1 MAF)
Translator+ (or Translator)

I believe optional items include the Extender chip or a chrome MAF pipe, which are NOT required, if that's not right, let me know.