Car won't start. (still hotair)

[MiamiGranny]

Well guys, pretty much in a nut shell.

Its a bone stock 1985 GN still hot air, i have not started the conversion yet..

The crank sensor was bad, I replaced it, It was getting no spark, I changed the coil/wires/plugs.

I turned the key Cranked, FIRED up for a second and boy was i happy, but it didnt stay on...

I try cranking it up again, and nothing, just turning the motor over..

Yes its getting fuel, Dont know the exact PSI but when i push on the nipple on the fuel rail fuel Squirts out with some decent pressure....

Im stumped. I have no idea what else it can be..

I tried running my 86/87 ecu on it and still nothing..

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

-Andres

 

[TurboBuRick]

Check for spark again?

 

[MiamiGranny]

Check for spark again?

It started raining before i could check again... But if it is a spark issue what do you think it can be thats wrong?


And if its not a spark issue what can it be?

Im scratching my head on this one.

Thank you for the advice.

 

[BRAD_PADGETT]

I would check the cam sensor install with a Caspers cam sensor tool. Borrow one if you do not have one. One idea. Brad

 

[charlief1]

I know you just replaced it but see if the crank sensor got hit by the ring. You don't wanna know why I say this. It drove me nuts for a few weeks though.

 

[Boostnitup]

Crank sensor...

They can be tempermental if not properly clearanced. You did install it in the correct slot?

Hee hee Don't ask me how I know this. LOL

The Casper's Camshaft Sensor tool is surely worth it's weight in gold. I bought one many years ago and it is a cherished tool.

 

[MiamiGranny]

I know you just replaced it but see if the crank sensor got hit by the ring. You don't wanna know why I say this. It drove me nuts for a few weeks though.

I made sure after i installed it i turned the crank with a ratachet many times until i got it to perfect clearance.

They can be tempermental if not properly clearanced. You did install it in the correct slot?

Hee hee Don't ask me how I know this. LOL

The Casper's Camshaft Sensor tool is surely worth it's weight in gold. I bought one many years ago and it is a cherished tool.

I installed it in the first slot.

**UPDATE**

I pulled off the intake pipe, sprayed some stuff my father had into the throttle body, and she fired right up. But as soon as he stops spraying it seems as if the injectors arent sending gas or its not igniting on its own...

Forgot to mention, My security light will not stop blinking, even when there are no keys in the ignition and the doors are closed....

Im scratching my head on this one...

 

[Boostnitup]

Security light?

As in an alarm system? or?

 

[MiamiGranny]

As in an alarm system? or?

As in the yellow security light on the gauge cluster.

 

[novaderrik]

does the "check engine" light come on with the key?
if not, you might not be getting power to the ecm, which means that the injectors won't pulse and spray fuel into the intake manifold.
check the ecm fuses and the orange wire out by the battery, if that checks out unplug the ecm and use a test light to check for power on the orange wire where it goes into the ecm.
mine did the same thing as yoru car- good fuel pressure, good spark, but would either start then die or not start at all. when it wouldn't start, a shot of ether in the throttle body would cause it to fire a couple of times.
in my case, the clogged up drain on the heater box had caused rain water to run down on top of the ecm plug and corroded the pin in the ecm that the orange wire is connected to so badly that it broke off and would get sporadic contact. i used this as the perfect excuse to upgrade to an 87ecm and TurboTweak chip and made sure to unclog the drain on the heater box. i also took each pin out of the plug and cleaned them up. it stays dry now and runs way better.

 

[MiamiGranny]

does the "check engine" light come on with the key?
if not, you might not be getting power to the ecm, which means that the injectors won't pulse and spray fuel into the intake manifold.
check the ecm fuses and the orange wire out by the battery, if that checks out unplug the ecm and use a test light to check for power on the orange wire where it goes into the ecm.
mine did the same thing as yoru car- good fuel pressure, good spark, but would either start then die or not start at all. when it wouldn't start, a shot of ether in the throttle body would cause it to fire a couple of times.
in my case, the clogged up drain on the heater box had caused rain water to run down on top of the ecm plug and corroded the pin in the ecm that the orange wire is connected to so badly that it broke off and would get sporadic contact. i used this as the perfect excuse to upgrade to an 87ecm and TurboTweak chip and made sure to unclog the drain on the heater box. i also took each pin out of the plug and cleaned them up. it stays dry now and runs way better.

Wow thanks for the great insight. Im definately going to check it out one of these days i get off work early enough. :biggrin:

 

[MiamiGranny]

So the ecu does get power, the orange wire runs to the battery... the pins are in correctly... Im still stumped?!?

 

[BRAD_PADGETT]

This link will help. The 86/87 setup is almost identical to the 84/85 electrically. This should locate your problem Brad

Engine Cranks But Won't Run - '86/'87 3.8L Turbo

 

[MiamiGranny]

This link will help. The 86/87 setup is almost identical to the 84/85 electrically. This should locate your problem Brad

Engine Cranks But Won't Run - '86/'87 3.8L Turbo

thanks for the link Brad.


On a side note, i removed the sparkplugs and theres no fuel getting into the cylinders when i crank it, but theres plenty of fuel in the fuel rail..

for some reason its as if the fuel injectors are not getting power.

sorry for the delayed responses, my only day off is sunday and its been raining

 

[Waco84GN]

Possibly a few things...

I would check the fuse for the FP/INJ to make sure its good.

If good then pull off one of the injector connectors and with the key on, engine off one of the wires should show 12 volts. Check with a voltmeter or test light. 1 lead hooked to ground the other checking the injector plug.

If this fails, check injector harness connector / the harness itself. There is a place under the hardcore plastic shrinkwrap on the harness that all of the HOTs go for the injectors. The wire from the connector to the solder location could have a break in it.

The ecm grounds the injectors and their appropriate times, so without a VERY GOOD ecm ground the ecm can't ground anything else including the injectors.

Check the ecm grounds on the accesory bracket underneath the alternator. Should be about 3 wires with eyelets grounded there.

Also could be bad injector drivers in the ecm. Do you have another ecm you can throw in there?

May have been asked already, but is the service engine soon light coming on during the buld test sequence when you turn the key on? If not the ecm may not be getting power.

All I can think of at the moment.

Jerry jr.

 

[MiamiGranny]

I would check the fuse for the FP/INJ to make sure its good.

If good then pull off one of the injector connectors and with the key on, engine off one of the wires should show 12 volts. Check with a voltmeter or test light. 1 lead hooked to ground the other checking the injector plug.

If this fails, check injector harness connector / the harness itself. There is a place under the hardcore plastic shrinkwrap on the harness that all of the HOTs go for the injectors. The wire from the connector to the solder location could have a break in it.

The ecm grounds the injectors and their appropriate times, so without a VERY GOOD ecm ground the ecm can't ground anything else including the injectors.

Check the ecm grounds on the accesory bracket underneath the alternator. Should be about 3 wires with eyelets grounded there.

Also could be bad injector drivers in the ecm. Do you have another ecm you can throw in there?

May have been asked already, but is the service engine soon light coming on during the buld test sequence when you turn the key on? If not the ecm may not be getting power.

All I can think of at the moment.

Jerry jr.

Ill be sure to check all of this tomorrow first thing in the afternoon (finally i get a day off) Does anyone have or can anyone take a picture of the factory alarm box? not too sure what it looks like, i was told that could be my problem.

 

[MiamiGranny]

not to mention my "security" light wont stop blinking as long as the battery is connected.

 

[MiamiGranny]

Well... appearently MY service engine light does not come on. The security light wont stop blinking, As soon as I connect the battery (even with no keys in the ignition) the fuel pump turns on and wont shut off. My ecu gets power, I checked all the grounds, I tried my 86/87 ecu, checked the soldering on the injector harness and it still wont start.

So in a nutshell, if the bat is connected the fuel pump wont turn off and the injectors are not actuating when i turn the key, all the fuses are good. I reall do not want to give up..