Car won't start?


New Member
I know there have been many posts about this but I just wanted to make sure.

I have 50K miles on my car and it is stock and it always started up right away and I never have any problems with it. I was flushing my power steering fluid and was turing the car on and off. I would turn it on for 5 seconds and let the power steering drain into a bottle and then turining it off and refilling the power steering fluid. I did this 6 times. On the seventh time I turned it on, with the new power steering fluid and let it run for 1 minute and turned off. I was going to flush it one more time and on the eighth time when I turned the key it would not start.

All the lights work(interior/exterior and don't dim when I turn the key). I have 12.5 V to the battery(which is brand new). The Security light in the dash comes but then turns of in 2 seconds but the Check Engine light stay on. The other thing I noticed is that there is a little black box right next to the battey in front that one of the connectors came off? And there is black goo all over the connectors and inside the connectors like something had meleted. I opened the balck box and it was clean inside and nothing seemed to be missing or burnt. I clean the connectors (as much as I could, they are still have goo inside them ) and reconnected the balck box and I hear a clicking sound. What is this black box and why did the connectors have black goo inside them.

Is my problem this black box or the soleniod/starter?


I did go under the car and try to jump start the solenoid and spraks flew but the starter did not work. I try 5 times. Then I turned the key and nothing. Then I banged the starter with a hammer and few times. Turned the kwy and nothing. Then I noticed the box poped off. Then I attached it again. Turned the key and it started.

Here is a pic of the black box and starter. What kind of starter do I have? I know its not stock.
That box is the fan delay relay. Has nothing to do with car starting or not.

Your problem appears to bad starter/starter solenoid. If you turn the switch forward to crank and you have 10-12volts on the solenoid.. then replace the starter. If you dont get any power.. then its a VATS issue.

VATS.. Turning the key back and forth many times will break the wires that read the chip on your ignition key.. if these wires break, your car wont crank over.
My car is doing the SAME thing. I smelled a burning smell when I was driving it... and it started fine the first time.

I then parked it for an hour and now it wont even click over. The car has a new battery and a new starter.

Its stuck in a parking lot right now, bumming me out. Luckily I got a ride home from a friend.

Are there ignition wire problems in these things? I have the VATS disabled in my tune so it shouldnt be the problem. The check engine light comes on when I try to start it ---
Are there ignition wire problems in these things? I have the VATS disabled in my tune so it shouldnt be the problem. The check engine light comes on when I try to start it ---

How did you disable the VATS? Did you physically remove it from the car and bypass it?
I disabled it on my car, but I didn't think you could do it with a chip. I just went from the ignition switch to the neutral safety switch on the shifter like a non-vats car would have been from the factory.

Vats went bad on my car and I decided I'd rather not have it. Just one more link in the chain to have a problem in my opinion.