You want positive caster, this can be achieved by adding shims to the rear. Try to shoot for 4* positive caster without bringing the camber out too far
with a caster/camber gauge, and alignment rack, or an angle finder..
be aware that you will be moving your camber as you move the caster, and the toe in will probably be knocked out of whack, too..
1/8 removed fr and rear =1 .0 deg +or- .25 on average camber for + caster remove shims from front add to rear do both sides lt and rt equal . 2 /8 adjusting caster only may not mess up too much at least check toe with tape when done . alignment shop is best way to go.
Read this and it should help you understand a little better. This is just 1 link out of 1 of the stickys. Might want to read the supension and brake one. There are a few links telling you how to do a DIY alignment as well as vid links so you understand better.
thanks for the help guys. all the local shops around here have some kids doin alignments tryin to get them close. when i had an alignment done on my typhoon the guy thought it was strange that i went along when he wanted to "test drive" when he was done. i said i ride along so you dont abuse this truck. anyway, i got the camber and toe spot on with a large carpenters square and a tight string. but dont know where i am on the caster.....
get an angle finder and put it across the upper and lower ball joint bolts.. this won't be perfect unless you account for the lower balljoint bolt being bigger than the upper, but it will tell you if you are the same side to side.
test drive update. the car drives perfectly strait and the steering wheel is perfectly level. it seems to steer a little easy, if that makes sence. aproximate how much positive caster would one 1/8" shim added to the rear give me. thanks for the help...