Changing heater core?

[2toneNV]

I would like any helpful hints or shortcuts on replacing the heater core? What materials need to be used other than new heater core and antifreeze. '87 Turbo Buick

 

[NASSTY]

You will need some type of silicone sealant to seal up the heater box cover when you reinstall it.

 

[gossamer]

You will need a nut driver to remove the bunch of screws holding the lid down, remove the 2 heater hoses and maybe some sealer to reseal the top of the box. Mine still had a over-abundance of still soft sealer so I didn't use any extra sealer. The heater core will lift right out when you get the lid off. Take your time and make sure you get all of the little screws out before you lift off the lid. Good Luck :smile:

 

[2toneNV]

Are you able to get to all of this from the engine compartment?

 

[gossamer]

Yes, everything is done from the engine compartment.

 

[XLR8]

There is a good how-to on gnttype.org. An air-rachet helps with the removal of all the little screws.
By the way, if you lose a screw I think I still have one left over after I put mine back together!

 

[jpratt]

I had all the screw removed when I replaced mine, at least I thought I did. Pulled and pried, then cracked it. Make sure all are removed.

 

[kjizzle]

yep

i did the same thing. i had 2 screws hidden under a big gob of old sealant, went to pull it out and torn the cover in half. i figured it was just old sealant giveing resistance when i was pulling. as it turned out...

it wasn't.

 

[charlief1]

The metric chasis is one of the easiest of ALL the curent cars to replace and you shouldn't have any problems. You will need some silicone or the proper eliphant sh_t as those in the biz call it. It's a black flexable sealant used to insulate a/c or heater lines. Don't use autonozone or notadvanced or noreilies. Most of them can't find their a-s with their hands. Find a GOOD parts guy and you get what you need. ASE Master if you're wondering. charlie.

 

[2toneNV]

Ok, changing the heater core out was time consuming but if you go step by step it is and was a piece of cake. The problem now is that it still isn't working, any idea where to get the CORRECT heater control valve? Or does anyone have any idea what could be the problem?

 

[gossamer]

Maybe you have a vaccuum leak in the line that controls the valve? If the core was bad, the only thing that would happen is a leak.

 

[2toneNV]

I guess that will be the next thing I check, but I looked over all of the hoses when putting things back together. You're confused....I'm confused!

 

[jpratt]

What exactly is not working?

 

[2toneNV]

Not sure, I turn the heater to the on position and I hear the blower motor running, but no heat.

 

[charlief1]

Ok, first, do you have heat on both heater lines? If you do then the core is getting flow. If you don't then your heater contro valve is not allowing flow to get to the core. If that's not the case then your blend door isn't opening.

 

[2toneNV]

Both hoses going to the heater core or heating up, but still no interior heat going in the car.

 

[gossamer]

Do you get any heat coming from the windshield defroster when the defroster is on? If so, maybe the vent doors are not opening?

 

[Shredon]

Might have to "burp" the air out by leaving the return unconnected until coolant is solidly coming out.

 

[bmackinnon]

If both the hoses to the heater core are heating up, then the heater control valve is working and coolant is flowing properly thru the core. Sounds like the temp. blend door is NOT working and is stuck in the cooling position. That is the door/flapper you saw inside the housing when you were changing the core. When you change the controls from vent to floor to def, is the air blowing out the proper positions??

Say what??? Don't worry about the 'burping', unless of course, you're in the company of females...

 

[Shredon]

Both hoses can heat thru convection...doesn't mean circulation. Just a thought...not a solve all )