Changing Valve Springs With Heads On

[mtbraun]

Here's a procedure for changing valve springs on a TB with the heads on. It could probably use some more pics, so if anyone gets ambitious and would like to add to the procedure PM me and I can forward you the Word document.

 

[HooverGS]

Use a compression tester with a female air chuck end attached and fill the cylinders with compressed air.. Way more simple and I'm not stuffing garbage into my cylinder.

 

[ZNix]

Keeping the valves up is the easy part.. Compressing the springs is hard.. At least I found so. I had to modify my tool a great deal to make it work..

 

[HooverGS]

they make a tool for 3.8 series 2 blocks (w-body grand prix monte carlo lesabre etc) that work on those

 

[HouTX87]

Cotton's sells a homemade spring compressor made from a modifed rocker arm for those of us who aren't able to fabricate our own. It was easier for me to just order it from them. Turn the engine over so that the last rocker arm on the passenger side is down - that was the only was I was able to get the passenger side valve cover out. Used compressed air to keep the springs up. Took me about 2 1/2 hours. Don't drop the keepers. I dropped one twice and it gave me a good scare. A pocket screwdriver with a magnet on the end worked well for me and plenty of patience.

 

[mtbraun]

Use a compression tester with a female air chuck end attached and fill the cylinders with compressed air.. Way more simple and I'm not stuffing garbage into my cylinder.

Keep in mind not everyone has access to compressed air. This document clearly indicates it is for the "rope" method. If a clean nylon rope is used there is nothing to worry about. This isn't in the procedure, but after I was done changing springs and had the plugs still out I unplugged the ECM and cranked the motor over several revolutions, just to be on the safe side.

 

[HouTX87]

I prefer to use compressed air but if I used the rope method it would definitely be a good idea to spin the motor over a few times before putting the plug back in just in case any debris got in the cylinders. It's great to have budget tricks like the rope trick but don't we all need an air compressor??? I paid $250 at sears 8 years ago and still going.

 

[MY T FAST]

I just used this tutorial and it helped immensely. more pics would be nice, but my hands were filthy and my camera sucks anyway lol. i used the rope method, and although pushing rope SUCKS and is pretty time consuming, it works just fine.

only thing i would add to aid others in the future is: you may have to whack the keepers to get them loose. i used a 3/8" deepwell on an extension and it worked good. don't be afraid to smack em. about half of mine took some 'persuasion' via a ford wrench and the aforementioned socket. Oh and the number 6 cylinder is every bit the b*tch everyone says it is, but it is doable with lots of patience, several expletives, and a buddy to help.

 

[87-WE2]

After just completing this swap, I have some info to add (for those in the future who may be as dumb as, or even dumber than me.

If replacing STOCK springs, you'll notice that the stock springs have external dampeners. These must be removed in order to compress the valve springs if you're using one of the "claw-and-screw" type valve spring compressors. In order to remove them, jam a flathead screwdriver down between the spring and dampener and pry them off. It will take some persuasion, but once they begin to loosen you're almost there!!

Another tip - start with the passenger side!! Just getting the VC off is an experience. If you still have the sheet-metal shield around your AC stuff, consider removing the heater hoses to allow for removal of the VC. Once you get done with that side, the driver side will be an absolute walk in the park!! After all the trials and tribulations I faced fighting the passenger side, I could do the driver side blindfolded, with one arm tied behind my back, and balancing a basketball on my head. I used to refer to #6 as the b1tch cylinder - it now has several new variations!! You will definitely need to refill your toolbox with patience after doing these with the motor in the car.

Thanks to mtbraun for the write-up. It was a big help, as was the tip about whacking the springs with the Ford wrench before compressing the springs.

 

[Emiliano Lago]

I have done the springs by filling the cylinder with air that works out really good,but I never heard of the rope method.I have to say that is pretty cool;

 

[joseywales2]

Thanks for the post I was just beginning to start this project.

Thanks to HouTX87 for the tip on the compression tool.

 

[bison]

After just completing this swap, I have some info to add (for those in the future who may be as dumb as, or even dumber than me.

If replacing STOCK springs, you'll notice that the stock springs have external dampeners. These must be removed in order to compress the valve springs if you're using one of the "claw-and-screw" type valve spring compressors. In order to remove them, jam a flathead screwdriver down between the spring and dampener and pry them off. It will take some persuasion, but once they begin to loosen you're almost there!!

Another tip - start with the passenger side!! Just getting the VC off is an experience. If you still have the sheet-metal shield around your AC stuff, consider removing the heater hoses to allow for removal of the VC. Once you get done with that side, the driver side will be an absolute walk in the park!! After all the trials and tribulations I faced fighting the passenger side, I could do the driver side blindfolded, with one arm tied behind my back, and balancing a basketball on my head. I used to refer to #6 as the b1tch cylinder - it now has several new variations!! You will definitely need to refill your toolbox with patience after doing these with the motor in the car.

Thanks to mtbraun for the write-up. It was a big help, as was the tip about whacking the springs with the Ford wrench before compressing the springs.

For extra clearance on the passenger side you can unbolt the engine mount on that side and jack the engine to pick up a little room. With the correct tools it's not a big deal though


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[DaveyX87]

Do you have to turn the engine over for each cylinder with the compressed air method?

 

[turbotroy]

Do you have to turn the engine over for each cylinder with the compressed air method?

Yes, you want the valves to be closed, otherwise the air goes through your intake or out the exhaust.

 

[DaveyX87]

Thanks, I get it now. Just curious, how are you guys turning over the motor to get each cylinder to the top of the stroke?

 

[Pronto]

When you pull the rocker shaft all the valves will be closed in the head.

 

[Tori]

Do you have to turn the engine over for each cylinder with the compressed air method?

I did not have to turn the eng. over to close the valves using the compressed air method. The air entering the cylinders will push the valve up. If one is open, the other will be closed. So, there is nothing to worry about, and only one to deal with. Afterall, isn't that why your using compressed air ? To hold the valve up ?

 

[Chuck Leeper]

I did not have to turn the eng. over to close the valves using the compressed air method. The air entering the cylinders will push the valve up. If one is open, the other will be closed. So, there is nothing to worry about, and only one to deal with. Afterall, isn't that why your using compressed air ? To hold the valve up ?

Huh??

 

[pacecarta]

When you pull the rocker shaft all the valves will be closed in the head.

in response to daveyX87 pronto is correct ...valves cant be open when the rockers are off , they will be closed and if they don't seal you have bigger issues that springs arent going to fix.

when you hit cylinder with air the piston will rotate to bottom , at that time its safe to tap the retainers with a large socket to loosen the locks , doing this will extend the life of the valve spring tool..dont hit them with piston at top or with rope under valve unless you like bent valves

you can get the passenger cover off with the heater hoses connected and the a/c shield in place but you'll want to remove the hoses and remove the hard line from the manifold and swing it out of the way so you have room to work the #6 cylinder

 

[booyah11]

Just did this over the weekend with the tool from Cottons. For me I found that it was critical to put the top keeper in first, wiggle the tool a bit then put in the bottom keeper. Every time I dropped the bottom keeper in first the valve would not be aligned well with the spring making the top keeper impossible to fit.

Also had the most trouble with the driver side valve nearest the firewall. With a long extension the tool from Cottons twists just enough to not apply even pressure on the spring, this in turn causes the spring to shift to the side making it impossible to get both keepers in place. Ended up having to fully disassemble the intake as well as remove several bits of wiring. This allowed me to get the socket closer to the tool so it wouldn't twist as much.

All in all a pretty manageable project. Honestly the prep time of cleaning and removing all the little bits takes longer than actually doing the spring replacement.