Chasing KR still

[SCOOBY DOO]

What's the MAF number in Park fully warmed up.

You need an AFPR to set the fuel pressure for Erics chip. 43 line off. I'll assume you have no Translator.

 

[SteveZ82]

I set it to 43psi line off per instructions on this forum. Eric actually recommended 38 psi line off if I was having issues with a rich condition. He wasn’t exactly sure what the specifics were with this chip as it was purchased as a kit from cottons.

MAF was at about 6 gr warmed up. Kinda jumped around but not by much.

No translator, yet.

 

[Pronto]

No translator, yet.

Think you found you're answer.

 

[SCOOBY DOO]

I set it to 43psi line off per instructions on this forum. Eric actually recommended 38 psi line off if I was having issues with a rich condition. He wasn’t exactly sure what the specifics were with this chip as it was purchased as a kit from cottons.

MAF was at about 6 gr warmed up. Kinda jumped around but not by much.

No translator, yet.

MAF number should stay steady in Park. The stock MAF's suck.

 

[SteveZ82]

MAF number should stay steady in Park. The stock MAF's suck.

Kinda realizing that. Just didn't have the $400 to invest for a while. I'll order an LT1 MAF and translator this week. Kirban's the best place?

 

['87 Turbo "T"]

Kinda realizing that. Just didn't have the $400 to invest for a while. I'll order an LT1 MAF and translator this week. Kirban's the best place?

ABSOLUTELY NOT!!!! It’s no longer owned by Kirban. It’s now owned by the scumbag P.O.S. Castle family. Nothing but liars & scammers!

Check out other reputable Buick dealers. Highway Stars, TurboTweak, Full Throttle should all have a MAF & translator.

Or you could post in the parts wanted section here.

 

[SteveZ82]

ABSOLUTELY NOT!!!! It’s no longer owned by Kirban. It’s now owned by the scumbag P.O.S. Castle family. Nothing but liars & scammers!

Check out other reputable Buick dealers. Highway Stars, TurboTweak, Full Throttle should all have a MAF & translator.

Or you could post in the parts wanted section here.

Oh wow. Ok, didn’t know that. I haven’t ordered from them in a while. Good to know. Thanks for all the help everyone, love this forum.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Turbo Tweak....

 

[Pronto]

If you want to save a few bucks order a LT1 MAF off Rock Auto and get the Translator from TT.

 

[SCOOBY DOO]

Turbo Tweak....

Eric sells both.

 

[SCOOBY DOO]

Oh wow. Ok, didn’t know that. I haven’t ordered from them in a while. Good to know. Thanks for all the help everyone, love this forum.

Stay the hell away from Kirbans.

 

[SteveZ82]

Stay the hell away from Kirbans.

Got my LT1 3" and MAF translator today. If I knew they had more settings than just the dip switches, I would have bought one a long time ago.
I get the dip settings for TT chips, On, On, On, Off, but I'm assuming I should set the base to LT1 3" with no idle change and 0 at the WOT switch? Then handle all the tweaking through the chip and/or both?
Just seeing what others are doing.

 

[SteveZ82]

Nevermind. Following this article, which is basically the same as what was in the box but a bit more clarification for me.

How To

 

[SteveZ82]

Hooked up the new lt1 MAF and translator. Easy. Just need to find a better mount point and hide the wiring better. Reset the ECU and Car started right up with MAL code 23. Don’t forget to plug back in your ats…. Anyway, went out after it warmed up. I’m staying stays right at 128 Blms at idle. It’s never done that. Hit the throttle and it’s still pretty fat but KR was real low. Like 2 degrees. So I pulled over and set the WOT in the chip to 120. Ran into a friend and he asked me to peel out. So I did with 0 KR at 820 mV and 16 psi. So I think I’m right in the area I need to be as things seem to be getting better. I’m going to go down to like 117 in the chip and work from there. Do you think I should mess with the switches on the translator itself or is this just a combination of right octane and tune at the chip?

 

[MikeS]

Tune via the chip. Use the wideband reading to dial it in, the o2 readings on the scanmaster are less accurate. Run the most octane you can get. Check for KR in 3rd gear (where engine load is higher) from a roll, not accelerating from a stop in 1st/2nd gear.

 

[SteveZ82]

I have no idea what I’m dealing with now. I put an LT1 MAF in this thing, running straight 93 with boostane and I got some bad KR last night. Here’s the thing, when I’m alone in the car, I can boost it up to 18psi with .2 kr at shift. Last night I had four people in the car and I was kinda showing off and the thing registered like 20 KR at 11 afr. I don’t think that’s real at all. That seems crazy. The car I have is lowered so maybe the downpipe is rattling. Nothing blew up so that’s good.

 

[Mr.Spool]

Again the car is not tuned correctly.
You seemed rich before
Now you got the thought of boost octain and run the car at 18psi when it was never clean before.
You say straight 93 with the additive
Guess what
You have no idea what the octane mixture is and cannot pick a target afr with x amount of boost and hit that target
So the car will not run right.
Yes a do hitting will set off the knock sensor and I would bet there are a host of other things that could be wrong as well.
But........
Inmo you should start trying to move the car in the right direction.
Loose the boostane
Lower the boost
Change the plugs
Verify fuel pressure rising 1to1
Install wideband to see the actual afr.
Log what's going on with the car.
For starters

 

[Chuck Leeper]

^^^ This.
And learn to read the plugs.
300# MIL's tend to overload the suspension.

 

[SteveZ82]

Again the car is not tuned correctly.
You seemed rich before
Now you got the thought of boost octain and run the car at 18psi when it was never clean before.
You say straight 93 with the additive
Guess what
You have no idea what the octane mixture is and cannot pick a target afr with x amount of boost and hit that target
So the car will not run right.
Yes a do hitting will set off the knock sensor and I would bet there are a host of other things that could be wrong as well.
But........
Inmo you should start trying to move the car in the right direction.
Loose the boostane
Lower the boost
Change the plugs
Verify fuel pressure rising 1to1
Install wideband to see the actual afr.
Log what's going on with the car.
For starters

I done everything on your list with the exception of messing with timing. My wideband was reading about 11. FP rises 1:1. I've got no vacuum leaks, plugs look fine, etc. I'll keep poking around with it.

 

[SteveZ82]

I think I may know what is happening. It's nothing to do with fuel/tune/etc but I'm pretty sure my downpipe is hitting my control arm or the crossover pipe is rattling under the car when I boost it. I have a lowered hotchkins lit. When I have passengers in the car you can hear it rattle more than if it's just me. I get like no KR if it's just me in the car with my current tune. My plan is to put stock suspension back because I don't like the ride quality with this suspension but probably going to tie the motor down with a brace or ratchet strap.

Sorry for constantly posting here on this subject but it has been driving me mad. I know what detonation sounds like and you simply can't hear it.