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Chasing KR still

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Is the downpipe dented right at the control arm? How old are your motor mounts? I rode in a car with a Hotchkis suspension and hated it. Felt like a buckboard.
 
Is the downpipe dented right at the control arm? How old are your motor mounts? I rode in a car with a Hotchkis suspension and hated it. Felt like a buckboard.
It is. Motor mounts are brand new. Every bushing on the car is replaced too. I mean the car is very stiff.
 
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I think I may know what is happening. It's nothing to do with fuel/tune/etc but I'm pretty sure my downpipe is hitting my control arm or the crossover pipe is rattling under the car when I boost it. I have a lowered hotchkins lit. When I have passengers in the car you can hear it rattle more than if it's just me. I get like no KR if it's just me in the car with my current tune. My plan is to put stock suspension back because I don't like the ride quality with this suspension but probably going to tie the motor down with a brace or ratchet strap.

Sorry for constantly posting here on this subject but it has been driving me mad. I know what detonation sounds like and you simply can't hear it.
Possible
 
Instead of putting a ratchet strap on the alternator bolt, which puts un-needed stress on the factory cast aluminum accessory bracket which is as rare as unicorn's teeth to find when you break it, I would suggest RJC's HD rear motor brace kit. Works great in my exp and the engine only moves as much as the rubber bumper can flex, which is basically none.


Downpipe hitting the control arm, and or the firewall to floor pan seam is very common. With regards to the firewall / floor pan seam, on any "new to me" Turbo Buick, I check to see if the previous owner / owners fixed this. If not, I break out the Dremel tool and 8# sledge. I notch that damn seam, hammer it down flat all around the downpipe and transmission bell housing area that I can get too, then shoot some primer and black paint over the area to keep it from rusting. Effectively killing two birds with one hammer. And said tools and paint come out again when the trans gets swapped/rebuilt, in order to completely hammer the seam flat. Your hands will thank you.
Hope this helps.

Patrick
 
Instead of putting a ratchet strap on the alternator bolt, which puts un-needed stress on the factory cast aluminum accessory bracket which is as rare as unicorn's teeth to find when you break it, I would suggest RJC's HD rear motor brace kit. Works great in my exp and the engine only moves as much as the rubber bumper can flex, which is basically none.


Downpipe hitting the control arm, and or the firewall to floor pan seam is very common. With regards to the firewall / floor pan seam, on any "new to me" Turbo Buick, I check to see if the previous owner / owners fixed this. If not, I break out the Dremel tool and 8# sledge. I notch that damn seam, hammer it down flat all around the downpipe and transmission bell housing area that I can get too, then shoot some primer and black paint over the area to keep it from rusting. Effectively killing two birds with one hammer. And said tools and paint come out again when the trans gets swapped/rebuilt, in order to completely hammer the seam flat. Your hands will thank you.
Hope this helps.

Patrick
This is very helpful. Like I said, I think that the KR I have is a result of things rattling around. it doesn't matter if I lean or richen my WOT settings either. I've done everything I can afford to do with mechanicals/electric. I remember someone at one time recommending this brace. I'll order one up when I have the $$$. Thanks for all the help!
 
This is very helpful. Like I said, I think that the KR I have is a result of things rattling around. it doesn't matter if I lean or richen my WOT settings either. I've done everything I can afford to do with mechanicals/electric. I remember someone at one time recommending this brace. I'll order one up when I have the $$$. Thanks for all the help!
I’ve been working on my house the last couple months and haven’t had time for the car. So, today, I took her out and changed the oil with rotella t4 15w-40, just want to try this oil. I ripped it and like close to zero KR. I really think my kR is the exhaust rattling. It really only happens when I have passengers.

Man, these cars are a chore.
 
This is very helpful. Like I said, I think that the KR I have is a result of things rattling around. it doesn't matter if I lean or richen my WOT settings either. I've done everything I can afford to do with mechanicals/electric. I remember someone at one time recommending this brace. I'll order one up when I have the $$$. Thanks for all the help!
I love RJC's parts, but be careful with this one. I had one and it pinched a brake line. Jus' sayin'.
 
I’ve been working on my house the last couple months and haven’t had time for the car. So, today, I took her out and changed the oil with rotella t4 15w-40, just want to try this oil. I ripped it and like close to zero KR. I really think my kR is the exhaust rattling. It really only happens when I have passengers.

Man, these cars are a chore.
Passengers = additional load on the engine. Make sure it's not real kr.
 
Close is ok in hand grenades and horse shoes.
Continue screwing around & you'll find that your budget is really wrecked when you blow it up....
It was less than 2 deg at shift. I think I know what’s going on. Getting to the end of the driving season here so I’ll worry about it later

Did about 175 miles today. Ran great. That LT1 MAF and translator I put in is a noticeable improvement
 
It was less than 2 deg at shift. I think I know what’s going on. Getting to the end of the driving season here so I’ll worry about it later

Did about 175 miles today. Ran great. That LT1 MAF and translator I put in is a noticeable improvement
Funny you should mention "end of the driving season"...... It still hit 100 degrees here in Phoenix today.

Next week will prolly just be the beginning of driving season here...... LOL October is really iffy here, it's either really nice, or it stays stupid hot until Halloween....

Once it does cool off, we get until early June....
 
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Funny you should mention "end of the driving season"...... It still hit 100 degrees here in Phoenix today.

Next week will prolly just be the beginning of driving season here...... LOL October is really iffy here, it's either really nice, or it stays stupid hot until Halloween....

Once it does cool off, we get until early June....
I’m in the Midwest. Right now it’s perfect for turbos. Cool air and no humidity. I was spooling real good today. But snow and salt coming soon. I might take the time now to repair my ac and convert to 134a. Then save over winter and maybe do ceramic coating.
 
It was less than 2 deg at shift. I think I know what’s going on. Getting to the end of the driving season here so I’ll worry about it later

Did about 175 miles today. Ran great. That LT1 MAF and translator I put in is a noticeable improvement
Make a pull in 3rd from a roll. No OD or downshift to 2nd. Any knock at the top of 3rd?
 
Make a pull in 3rd from a roll. No OD or downshift to 2nd. Any knock at the top of 3rd?
Confirmed we found the culprit. It's not fuel or anything with the tune. The lowered springs are causing the aftermarket downpipe and exhaust to rattle around. My downpipe hits the upper control arm and the magnaflows are hitting the floor pans. Especially when I have people in the car. Plan is to get the car back to stock springs in the spring (pun intended) and re-align the exhaust. I love the way the car looks with this suspension but it's a pretty harsh ride. Guy doing the work is a turbo freak with a shop here in Illinois.

Sorry for posting back to such an old post but thought this could be helpful for others.
 
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