Check this out.

[pat83t]

Not only was I the slowest but I was also the only carbed turbo there, and the only one that wasn't black, white, or gray.

http://www.blackholehunter.stangnet.com/turbo_thunder_2002.htm

 

[Ttype83]

You may have had the slowest, but I see that you made it to the front of the pack
So what was your times???? please share.
Jim

 

[pat83t]

well the first rule of racing is to have a good excuse so here it is. I never have adjusted the tps, mixture control solenoid, wastegate or timing since I got the new motor. We hooked it up to a scan tool at the track and found out why I was going so slow. (quarter mile times clocked with a calendar) everything is way outta whack. boost is topping out at 3 lbs. I don't remember the values for the rest of it but I do remember it wasn't good. Plus I took it to a muffler shop and found out my cat is 3/4 plugged. The first run sucked butt. 18.9 After that I booted my 240lbs friend outta the car and ran 18.4. Then I found a couple of vacuum leaks and plugged them and ran 17.9. I had a couple of those. best time of the day for me was 17.8. I need to get it all tuned up and go back. I can't have a time like that on my mind til next year. My 60' times were sucking bad so that could be some of it/2.6-2.7

 

[pat83t]

Ok here is more of the same pics and some new ones, like me at the starting line.

http://pat83t.tripod.com/my83t/id19.html

 

[Ttype83]

Pat the was some pretty good times with only 3# boost, your timing was set at....lets see 9 deg BTDC, your tps was .68..

Still it gets you a starting point to work from. It's good that you had some fun, I just found a track about 20 miless away...think I'll take the wifes Durango for a ride...think the locals will trip on seeing a big O SUV running down the track....It's got AWD should be able to get some good 60' times with it, if I can remember how to do the tree.

Jim

 

[pat83t]

There was 3 or 4 SUV's down there. See it was street legal drags also. I thought about running against some of those. I also had a full tank of gas there also. I have a pic of a SUV staged against an 87 Turbo-T. The same one I am staged against and it is a bigger SUV than a durango.

 

[buick83-T]

Cool an 83 T-type at the track .Hope to get mine to the track soon also. Did you power launch your car or start from idle?

 

[pat83t]

Well I power launched it the best I could only getting 3 lbs max boost out of it.

 

[b4black]

I think you finding out what I did. You need to have a good running car first, then start modifying it. I had a K&N cone, unhooked the exhaust, changed the metering rods and tweaked the carb. But I was only getting 6 psi. I fixed that problem and went racing again. This time the car feel on it face at mid track. I had to make sure the changes I made weren't the cause. I should have left it alone and started completely stock. Get it tuned right - Then make one change at a time.

I didn't know I had a low boost problem until I hooked up a gauge. EVERYBODY NEEDS ONE.

What are you doing about the cat? You can easily unbolt it from the downpipe and see what happens. I not sure you want to remove it completely though. The EGR is tied into the exhaust backpressure. No backpressure, no EGR. No EGR will cause knock. (I need some more pressure gauges to find out how much backpressure I have and how much the EGR needs.)



Look at it this way, if the car felt good before you knew how slow it was, think of how good it will feel when it runs right. You'll knock off a full second just by getting it tuned good. Then you can start with the mods.

 

[pat83t]

Won't the mufflers create enough back pressure to operate the EGR? how is it that the IC guys can remove theirs?

 

[b4black]

The mufflers might. The SFI guys can reprogram thier PROM's mixture to compensate for the removed EGR. Also, they may not have same backpressure regulated EGR that we have.

A backpressure regulated EGR should not open when there is little/no backpressure. It won't hold vacuum and will appear as if it leaking. The shop even mentions a leaking exhaust and/or removed cat as a possibilty for a non-functioning EGR.

The EGR valve I bought from Poston's is a Tomco unit with an external pressure tranducer. By adding a T between the valve and transducer, I will be able to measure exhaust back pressure.


Really the best thing to have (besides the boost gauge), is a knock gauge or scan tool. If it's not knocking, it's really doesn't matter what the EGR is doing (expect for emissions). A working EGR may just be one way to help keep the knocks down.

 

[Ttype83]

My EGR worked without the cat, someone had used a pipe with the small pipe to connect it to the emission system inplace of the cat.

Yes 3 Guages are a must

1. Vac/Boost
2. Oil
3. Knock

I have number 1, but I needed 2 more
Found a 82 SC Turbo close to me...it has a blown HG..I wonder if

 

[b4black]

I have been having trouble with my EGR and learned about this backpressure thing from the shop manual. As I mentioned, the Tomco unit from Poston's is different than the stock peice which kinda pissed me off at first since I wanted a OEM style valve and they didn't mention it was so different. Here is a picture where you can clearly see the external transducer on the left. It's also universal, since it uses various "washers" to restrict the exhaust flow.

EGR picture

But after looking into it, I like the Tomco unit better (and nobody can see it buried under there anyway). By T'ing into the transducer port, I can read exhaust back pressure. The external transducer should not plug like the OEM. The shop manual recommend disassembling the EGR valve and cleaning it every 30,000 miles .

The whole backpressure issue maybe be pointless. I just checked, and it only takes 0.5 psi to activate the transducer. I'm pretty sure any exhaust will provide this (although maybe not an open downpipe). It's probably OK to run this Tomco unit without the transducer, so it will open even with zero backpressure.

I hope I can install it soon. The trans rebuild helped with the shift knock - it shifts so fast it doesn't have time to knock. Hopefully the new EGR valve will cure the rest of the knocking.

 

[Ttype83]

What are you doing up so late Rick..lol
My new cam should be in at the end of this week and it does back together. With the 87 trans I'm hoping it will improve my shifts (well almost anything will be better than the slipping one)
One if you convert to a BFR trans you need to use the female TCC switch(plug) from the old one.

 

[b4black]

I was up way too late last night. (I start work at 6:30 AM)

I pulled out my TV cable setting and it shifts nice now. But it's way out from the factory setting. I bet they used a cable for an SFI car.

I tried installing the Tomco EGR today. But when I checked the sheet to find out which orifice washer to use, my OEM valve number wasn't on the list. I e-mailed Tomce and hopefully they know what to do.


10:00 - time for bed.

 

[Ttype83]

I think the Pat or Peter replaced theirs with a Tomco unit too and had to figure it out...Wish I could remeber which....Must be passed my bed time too. But Pat should just about ready to get on....
Hey Pat sorry about chattin up your post. Are you going to replace the plug cat with a higher flowing one?
Jim

 

[pat83t]

No prob. Actually what I am looking into doing (if I can get away with it) is taking mine out, chopping the flanges off both ends, make a direct bolt in "test pipe" with the small tube for the emissions, and call it good. Must have been peter that changed his EGR cause mine still has the original but I think it is about gone. I need to test it with a vacuum pump. However I did go to the all buick show down by portland this last sunday and took 3rd place in the 81-2001 class, and won 3 door prizes.

 

[Peter]

EGR

Guilty as charged. I changed my EGR and had to measure the orifice to calculate the correct washer size.

I am still hoping that washer stays put??

 

[b4black]

Originally posted by b4black
I e-mailed Tomco and hopefully they know what to do.

Not only did they repsond, the gave me a useable answer!!! WOW

Hello, We have researched the number in our GM-Buick micro-fiche and found that 17083715 is the engineering number for 17079817 which was replaced by 17112432. The correct EGR valve is 10501 with a 440 orifice washer. Hope this helps.
Thanks

 

[pat83t]

Damn, can't get much better of an answer than that. did they offer to come out and put it on for you too?