Checking Sub-Frame @ Body Shop?

[BASS]

Ok, I wiped out in my other car (300zx) and went over a curb at around 50 mph (all 4 wheels) and smacked my rear quarter on a fence post on the center median. The quarter panel repair I will get to later on, but I was wondering how or who do I take the car to to check to see if my frame/sub-frames are bent? The car is still driveable, but the alignment is all off, shakes, etc. I visually checked the suspension, and i didnt notice any bent A-arms or anything (but the tension rod bushings are ripped).

Before I start replacing suspension components, would any old body shop be able to check to see if the frame is bent or has any cracks? Do they use lasers to check?

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Most likely they will have to put it on a frame machine, check all datum points, and determine if it can be "pulled".

 

[pacecarta]

if you hit a curb ..yooull probably need to replace the rims and tires
sounds like you need to get a look underneath and see if they can correct the alignment ,if they cant something has to be bent

 

[gnxtc2]

Usually the better alignment machines should be able to pick up a damaged part. Try the alignment first before the frame machine.

Check the tires before doing anything. You might have ply seperation from hitting the curbs.

Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com

 

[stack1]

You could have major suspension damage and not be able to tell by looking. Do you have collision coverage on it? Better report a claim. There's no way you escaped severe damages by going that fast over a curb. Most large body shops will have their own alignment and frame machines.

 

[Rivical]

You should be able to get it checked and repaired by about any reputable bodyshop for the cost of your deductible or less. They have to have a frame rack and somebody who's able to use it in order to qualify for insurance work these days. I was recently told minimum of $250 to put a '79 TA on the rack, even if they did no work. But that would cover minor issues such as front sub alignment, and rear spring shimming, regular alignment. Little stuff with no parts needed other than maybe shims. Any body pulling to facilitate that would cost more. They wouldn't say, but alluded to possibly getting into the $500 range.

 

[BASS]

Yea, im amazed that the rims/tires dont appear to be dented as I really went over that curb hard (it was BAM when I ran it over, and then another BAM! when I smacked the quarter)...Amazingly, after I bounced off the median, I 360'd myself back on the road and the car didnt even stall out..I really thought the car was gonna look totalled after hearing how loud the impacts were, but when I stepped out to see it, it isnt as bad as I thought it would be..I also amazed that the front bumper was still all in one piece and I didnt even dent in the oil pan

Its been about 1/2 a year since this happened, and amazingly the tires held pressure with no loss of air. I want to replace all the tires regardless, but they go for $200 a piece (and I recently replaced the rears too).

Stupid me doesnt have collision on this car (just liability), so it looks like the repairs will have to come out my pocket. Im just slowly gonna save up for these repairs since I have all these other car projects going on at the same time..Im still all depressed about this since this is my second favorite car (the Buick being first of course)..:frown:

 

[alwayscode390]

My truck went to the shop for panel replacement.

The manager wanted the truck on a frame rack.

I didnt put up a fuss, I was curious too ... things were FINE.

Pay to get it on a frame machine ---

 

[asto-t]

Have a piece of mind and take it to a auto body shop and have it checked out.It will cost a few hundred bucks!

 

[novaderrik]

park the car on a flat surface and start measuring from the ground up to common points along the bottom of both sides of the car. there are usually holes that are in the same place on both sides of the underbody of the car that make good reference points.
then put the car up on jackstands and start measuring in "X" patterns to those same points. if there is mych variation- like more than 1/8" from side to side and front to back- then the body is tweaked and needs to be straightened.

 

[Rivical]

park the car on a flat surface and start measuring from the ground up to common points along the bottom of both sides of the car. there are usually holes that are in the same place on both sides of the underbody of the car that make good reference points.
then put the car up on jackstands and start measuring in "X" patterns to those same points. if there is mych variation- like more than 1/8" from side to side and front to back- then the body is tweaked and needs to be straightened.

If you intend to measure the common points from a floor you'll need to laser shoot the floor first. There are unnoticed waves in any concrete floor that can cause a serious variance that doesn't exist on the car. I shot a section of my machine trowel finished garage floor every 6" and have variance from minus 1/8" to plus 5/16" You can't tell, but it's there! I marked my grid with a paint pen. You'll also need exacting jackstands, I made mine from solid pipe with 12"sq. bottom plate. These will take out the potential of variable load on the springs. Shim the jackstands to the floor's contours and height so that each is the same. Then you can measure your car's tweaks, or weld in your sub-cons! But that's another story with more involvement to do right!

 

[BASS]

If you intend to measure the common points from a floor you'll need to laser shoot the floor first. There are unnoticed waves in any concrete floor that can cause a serious variance that doesn't exist on the car. I shot a section of my machine trowel finished garage floor every 6" and have variance from minus 1/8" to plus 5/16" You can't tell, but it's there! I marked my grid with a paint pen. You'll also need exacting jackstands, I made mine from solid pipe with 12"sq. bottom plate. These will take out the potential of variable load on the springs. Shim the jackstands to the floor's contours and height so that each is the same. Then you can measure your car's tweaks, or weld in your sub-cons! But that's another story with more involvement to do right!

Aww man, it looks way too complicated to check this out on my own, Im gonna have to take it to a frame shop...thanks!

 

[Rivical]

Awe man, you can do it! I don't have a laser either. But I've got a few contractor friends, and some on the county road crew. If you don't want paint on yer floor, use sticky dots to make your matrix, and mark on them!
For stands I used
4--1/2"x12"x12"plates"
4--4"x4"x1/4"x20" sq tube
4--6" channel x6" ---center pipe on plates/channel on pipe.
A local fab shop could make em easy enough for ya. Just make sure they know that you expect em all exactly the same finished height.

If the whole 'full tilt' route is too much then I'd suggest simply putting the car on jackstands under the a-arms and axles. Just using the springs to take out whatever floor waves are present. If there isn't any twist it shouldn't be draped over opposingly heavily loaded stands and oughta measure fairly close vertically. But don't take that for gospel of where the car's condition is. If the floor isn't too bad, and the car isn't either, then you should be able to take diagonal measurements at least! That's the real tell. 1/8" or less difference diagonally, I wouldn't worry about. After a new alignment you'll know if it's cockeyed by how it handles heavy rain or snow. I'd have the tires removed from the rims and the insides shown to you. If they inspect OK with no interior crack out from the impact I'd use em. Not at 100mph, but 70-75 has never been a problem for me. I've had the tires survive nearly every big rim bend I've done. Actually just lost the first one this fall. Stupid cheap Chinese tires. Can't bend aluminum with em