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CK Performance shift kit installation instructions needed

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Zeeb

New Member
Joined
Aug 21, 2010
Messages
5
I bought the CK street/strip kit for my 2004R (valve body, billet servo, govenor, acummulator springs/piston, pressure regulator, etc.). It shipped without instructions (except for the billet servo documentation, I did get that). Been on the phone each day for most of the week to no avail. I have a problem with this transmission that I think the kit will cure, meanwhile my car is out of commission and I only have weekend time to repair. Would gladly send anyone a check for $10.00 to cover their troubles if they could scan and email me a PDF of the needed instuctions. Again, this is for the full kit. I would need the full instruction set covering pressure reg., where to place the check balls on the modified valve body, spring selection guidance for the new accumulator (the kit comes with optional springs), accum.piston install, everything to do with the CK street/strip kit for a 2004R. Thanks!
Leon Zebrick
lzebrick@yahoo.com
 
I just sent the instructions to your email. No payment needed.:cool:
 
My wife informed me she did try to email them to you twice,I dont see how you didnt get them but thanks to kwik6 for forwarding them.
 
Chris,
I received the instructions and installed the kit on Saturday. It shifts now! And wow, I found some weird stuff put in by the last person to work on it. There were no springs in the 1-2 or 2-3 accumulators! In their place were spacers that were actually transmission cooler line fittings!! Well with the CK kit in my transmission is shifting nicely; however, for some reason it won't hold 1st gear when shifted manually, it shifts into second on its own each time. The manual 2-3 and 3-4 shifts are fine, I can hold to any RPM. Would appreciate any pointers you could offer. I'm pleased with your kit and having brought this thing back from the dead.
 
A manual 1/2 shouldnt occur in low range unless governor pressure is higher than manual low pressure.Did you install the low boost valves in the pump?If so check pressure as they may be upside down or sticking.In low range there should be no 1/2 ,and a manual 1/2 @ wot should never be lower than the rpm you get on a wot 1/2 in auto mode.What is the wot in auto mode?
 
Thanks for the quick response! I installed the pressure regulator assembly that came with the kit into the pump. The kit came with a valve body so I did not do anything at all to it, just bolted it in. I assume the item labeled "pressure regulator assembly" is thes the "low boost valve" you are referring to. I referenced the photo of the valve train and installed in that order. Double checked too. The original assembly did not pop out when I removed the snap ring and a magnet helped with the problem. Installing the new valve train was not as easy as I expected it to be because if things were cocked just the slightest they would tend to hang up. I suppose that's because the machined tolerances are so tight, but it did all go in, without forcing, after a few attempts. I didn't check the pressure. Think you said I should see about 90lbs at idle, correct? If I'm below 90, say 70 or less??, sounds like it's this regulator I should suspect? If I drop the pan for this, is there anything else I should check or look out for? FYI, I installed the red spring into the 1-2 accumulator. Would the white one perhaps help with the problem? I don't know my WOT auto 1-2 shift point because my engine is not broken in yet, but I will say the 1-2 shift seems pretty early to me, even under heavy throttle. I have a geometry corrector on my carb and the cable is adjusted to full-out at WOT. Thanks!
 
Let me say again, the auto 1-2 seems quite early, and I'm sure would be early at WOT, perhaps 3,000 RPM I would estimate. I did install the upgrade govenor. Could this be a clue to why I can't hold 1st in manual mode. Thanks again.
 
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