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comp 212/212 Hyd roller specs?

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Got the Beehive springs off.

Closed pressure at 1.75 installed Height #140
Open pressure w/cam lift of .488 = #280

.120 away from coil bind

Two seats were cracked as well as other tell tale signs of valve float according to my head guy. Tops of valve seals showed signs of float, etc.

Additionally I had two blown head gaskets. Each bank had two cylinders that the gasket was blown in between. This is wy I pulled the heads, it was going to be a simple spring swap until we aired up on cylinder and then air cam out the spark plug hole of the cylinder next to it. The gasket was still in tack (cometic) but could see where it was passing compresion from cylinder to cylinder.

This car has never reved or run right at high rpms. Normal driving was fine and it ran smooth.

New set of valve springs going in, Tom at Champion sent these to me.

Kmotion springs

installed H of 1.710 closed pressure of #140
Open pressure at .488 lift #400

These cars will fool you as fast as they can be even not running right. This car even despite the issues still could trap at 124mph on the street with my G meter. A amature like myself would be impressed with that and think, wow this car really hauls a$$!

But I have always felt something was just never quite right.

I have learned alot from this.

I hope we get it right once and for all.

Any input is well taken.

Do you guys think I am on the right track.

Dennis


I would not go away from the bee hive springs. They really do make a difference in how quick the V6 motors rev up. Those springs hold the rpms up to 7500 no problem but there was no power that high up in the rpm range.

I have run those springs on stock iron heads to TA race heads and they work well. Cams from stock to hydraulic rollers. Comp 206/206 cams to a Reed 242. You can use those springs with any cam with up to .600 lift.

I am no fan of putting 400#s of seat pressure on the valves if you dont need it. My personal feeling is that all it will do is wipe out cam lobes. And for the record not one cam has been wiped out on 7 different motors using the bee hive springs.

Just my 2 cents.
 
Reggie,

thanks for the input, unfortunatly my experience with these bee hives has not been so good. When I got the car it had the lighter be hives on it, valves floating. So I was told that I needed the stronger bee hives and that would solve the problem.

So off the heads come and I send them to Dan Strezo a very reputable guy to do a valve job and install the new stonger version of the bee hives.

I get the car back together and it seems to be fair at best, but like I have said, it did not seem right.

At this point I just dont care about the extra rpms that some may have seen with the bee hives. The two sets of bee hives I have tried did not give this same result. I would like the valves to just open and shut properly up to even 5800 and I would be happy.

I have had plenty of people tell me they have had good luck with the BH. I wonder if their is a quality control issue? Maybe a bad run?

I will try some other options for now.

After 4 years of this, I have given them a fair chance.

Den
 
Reggie,

thanks for the input, unfortunatly my experience with these bee hives has not been so good. When I got the car it had the lighter be hives on it, valves floating. So I was told that I needed the stronger bee hives and that would solve the problem.

So off the heads come and I send them to Dan Strezo a very reputable guy to do a valve job and install the new stonger version of the bee hives.

I get the car back together and it seems to be fair at best, but like I have said, it did not seem right.

At this point I just dont care about the extra rpms that some may have seen with the bee hives. The two sets of bee hives I have tried did not give this same result. I would like the valves to just open and shut properly up to even 5800 and I would be happy.

I have had plenty of people tell me they have had good luck with the BH. I wonder if their is a quality control issue? Maybe a bad run?

I will try some other options for now.

After 4 years of this, I have given them a fair chance.

Den

I'd make sure it's definitely the beehive springs before condemning them.

My stock heads got sold to Bison with 26918 beehives on them... and they had no trouble spinning well over 6000. He listed the seat/open pressures in my valve float thread.

Not sure if you mentioned it or not, but what rockers are you using ? 1.55's ? 1.65's ?
 
I hear ya

I understand for sure yullose, I have been wrong before many times.

But kind of like the saying: Keep doing what your doing and you keep getting what your getting"

I need to try something else. If you look at my open pressures on the Bee hives, is that not on the light side? maybe should of shimed them some more? I had pleanty of room.

To be honest with you, thru frustration I have finally started to educate myself on spring pressures, installed hight, coil bind, etc. Until now I have been trusting people to just do it right. That has not happend, so I have to make sure this time around all bases are covered.

I have 1:65 rockers
 
I have 1:65 rockers

Is your .488 lift calculated with the 1.55 ratio or 1.65's ?

If using the .488 figure and 1.55's... that = a lobe lift of .315

.315 x 1.65 rocker ratio = .520 lift

I picked up 800rpm by adding 40lbs of seat pressure (dual springs @ 160/360) and swapping from 1.65's to 1.55's. I still floated valves at 6000... so I went to a stronger beehive.
Those are around 175/375 with my cam.

It worked well for me by calculating the exact heights needed at full open, and shimming accordingly. Seat pressure just had to be whatever it was with that shim combo. The open pressure is critical to keep the rollers following the lobes.

Look on the last page of my monster thread... I think Bison gave the installed specs on my 26918 beehives... I think on the seat they were 175... and open was 320 with .550 lift.

With the new 26120 springs I just put on my car, I'm approx .040-.050 from coil bind.
 
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