Last night the GN started right up, ran perfect for about 10 seconds, shuttered then died with total loss of all electric power. No lights, no radio, nothing as if the battery had been removed. I climbed under tonight and found one of the small wires broken and missing the connector terminal and another with the insulation burned back exposing about 1/4 inch of bare wire (I think this is where the broken wire came from?). I reconnected all the wires (except the smaller one on the post by itself) along with the battery pos cable to the large post. When I disconnected the pos cable last night there was no sign of any spark as if the battery was dead. (It tested at 12.67 volts) Tonight after I connected all the wires to the starter I touched the pos cable to the battery and got BIG SPARKS. Car still had no signs of life. First, do all the wires except the small one that goes on the small lug go to the large lug with the battery pos cable? Second, what would happen to cause the car to lose all electrical power as if the battery was gone?
complete loss of all electric power
- Thread starter hesermon
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You need the new fusible link .
http://www.casperselectronics.com/store2/product_info.php?cPath=61_62_5_6_9&products_id=1061
http://www.casperselectronics.com/store2/product_info.php?cPath=61_62_5_6_9&products_id=1061
Can you be a little more specific? Does one or more of these links being bad cause the total loss of power? Why the large sparking when re-connecting the battery cable? Is there likely additional damage somewhere down the line (i.e. fuses, relays, etc)?
Thanks, Hugh
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If you have "BIG SPARKS" when connecting the positive cable it means a power cable is being grounded. A fusible link is just a fuse, so that means no power can pass through when it fails.
Check the positive cable going to the starter to see if it is burned through and the bare wire is resting on the header, or an issue like that with the charge cable going to the alternator?
DaRonne Edwards
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Great job turbo3.8. I had the same problem back in the day and the fusible link was the culprit.
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You are correct that blown fusible links will kill power to the dash inside and the cooling fan.
The issue here is the battery was "dead" and then many hours later it "sparked" when the positive cable was connected. It is not possible for a blown link to cause a BIG SPARK?
The dead battery recharged itself after 24 hours, and sparked when connected since a power cable/wire is grounded.
Only 2 leads supply power from the battery, one to the starter, other to the alt. So if it is not a cable, the other possibility is an internal short in the starter or alt.
One way to find the problem is leave the battery connected after it sparks, and follow the smoke to the source.
[Not seriously recommended!]You are correct that blown fusible links will kill power to the dash inside and the cooling fan.
The issue here is the battery was "dead" and then many hours later it "sparked" when the positive cable was connected. It is not possible for a blown link to cause a BIG SPARK?
The dead battery recharged itself after 24 hours, and sparked when connected since a power cable/wire is grounded.
Only 2 leads supply power from the battery, one to the starter, other to the alt. So if it is not a cable, the other possibility is an internal short in the starter or alt.
One way to find the problem is leave the battery connected after it sparks, and follow the smoke to the source.
I'm beginning to think starter. When it first happened I raised the hood and there was a small amount of grey smoke rising from the pass side near the header. I pulled the main cable from the battery to starter completely out and checked it, there is no damage to it. I cannot see the smaller wires coming from the harness to the starter to see any damage other than the burned ends I mentioned in the original post. When I first re-connected the battery I did not connect the alt back up (I have a separate wire going to it) so I eliminated that as a possibility. So it sounds like I have a dead short somewhere, I'm hoping starter.
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First things FIRST.....Before you burn the car down:
DO NOT work with the positive side of the battery with the ground side already connected.
Always hook up the positive side only after disconnecting the ground cable.
Fish the main harness with the fuseable links, [and grounds], up behind the pass side cyl head, and peel the covering back. Install new links, [ Caspers kit]. While you are in there, relocate the grounds, using a Caspers kit.
DO NOT work with the positive side of the battery with the ground side already connected.
Always hook up the positive side only after disconnecting the ground cable.
Fish the main harness with the fuseable links, [and grounds], up behind the pass side cyl head, and peel the covering back. Install new links, [ Caspers kit]. While you are in there, relocate the grounds, using a Caspers kit.
If you think the starter or alternator is shorted you could disconnect the wires from each and see if you still have the spark. If you are going to check this way (look for a spark) get a 15 amp fuse and connect a piece of 10 gauge wire to each blade. Connect one end of this wire to your positive battery cable and then touch the other wire to your positive battery terminal. If the short is still there it will blow the 15 amp fuse and if not with everything off the fuse will not blow. If it is not the starter or alternator then start tracing the positive wire/wires. Also be sure your fusible link did not blow as this would lead to a false test.Now if the short is gone connect your alternator and starter one at a time to see which one is shorted. Bruce
Tonight, had starter checked at AZ. Failed test, about every other test it would just "click" and cause the machine to show "fail". Replaced starter and made sure all wires were clean and properly attached. Now I have not arching but also no signs of power. Ran out of daylight so tomorrow I will fish the harness up and check all the fuse links. If there is 12 volts downstream of the links I guess that means keep chasing till I find the problem.
turbofrank
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Now check fuses in fuse box.
Update: after replacing starter and cleaning up all wire connectors, I still did not have power at the starter. Just as a WTF I removed the main ground from the engine, tested with an ohm meter and put back on. All of a sudden power! I took the cable off and saw a very small amount of green crud on the mounting stud. Cleaned, replaced ground cable and everything seems back to normal. No blown fuses or links, just what appears to be a bad ground. Don't know if the bad ground led to the demise of the starter or just two separate issues that reared their ugly heads at the same time but whatever the reason(s), I'm back on the road. Still no idea what caused the big sparks other than the main pos cable might have been touching the starter heat shield at that time (small burnt on edge of shield).
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