Considering this 1987 GN, what do you think?

DarkKnight

New Member
Brand new to all this so let me know how it sounds.

The price is right, basically I just would like to know about the mods on the car. Does it have good parts?

I know LS1 cars (Z28, WS6, etc...) and can tell you the difference between someone who knew what they were doing and some idiot but I have NO REAL CLUE on these cars. Hoping you guys can help me out.

Here's the list from the guy's post:

"1987 Buick Grand National For Sale
T-Tops
55k miles
PW/PL/Twilight Sentinel/Tilt/Cruise/AC
Pioneer CD deck, but I have a stock GM deck laying around if you prefer
Stock block 3.8 Turbo
Numerous upgrades (see below)

This is an almost complete list of upgrades and maintenance since I've owned the car:

spark plugs and wires at 48,000
walbro 340 fuel pump, accufab regulator, fp gauge, new fuel filter
hooker 2.5" exhaust w/ test pipe
passenger valve cover breather bypass
new PCV
underhood, rear, and front body braces
KYB shocks and Variable Springs put on back at 49,500
engine tie-down strap
solid MAF pipe
vacuum brake conversion (the original powermasters are terrible and $$$)
outlaw rims (a couple were pre-roughed up) and BFG 275's put on at 49,500
passenger side header crack welded (this happens on ALL TRs)
tranny and rear end service at 49,700 A-pillar pod w/ boost gauge,
air/fuel gauge
009 injectors at 50,150
TE-44 turbo, ATR 2.5" downpipe, ported elbow at 50,180
Duttweiler neck intercooler
sagging headliner repaired
2800 torque converter
B&M shift kit
brake line lock
larger tranny cooler installed *currently bypassed, stock unit used*
driveshaft safety loop
extra vacuum canister installed
a/c converted/recharged at 52,000
broken power antenna replaced with fixed mast at 52,300
MAF Translator+, LS1 MAF, and Extender chip combo installed at 52,300
New K&N cone filter at 52,300
New 02 sensor just put in
Oil changes done regularly (never more than 2000 miles)


I will include Turbolink 2.13 on disk, and an ALDL cable.

As far as what's wrong with it... nothing mechanically as far as I know. It's been reliable and relatively economical for 7 years. The body and paint is what a reasonable person would expect from a 17 year old car. Car looks nice from a distance, get many comments, up close it shows it's age in spots. The worst thing outside is a small ding in the passenger side door and a bent up wheel molding. Interior is clean, driver's seat upholstery is starting to split in the middle. Despite these, the car gets comments and looks everywhere it goes, but I feel in the hands of an enthusiast, with a little body work and maybe new paint, this would as good as it gets on the street. The car has the parts to run 11's in the hands of a good tuner.

The car has a rebuilt title from Illinois, which translated to a prior salvage title in Iowa I confirmed in Illinois theft recoveries are assigned this title automatically regardless of damage (including none). The car doesn't show any sign of having been wrecked. The seatbelts do not go thru the loop on the seats, and I know the second owner was a police chief. These things lead me to believe it may be a theft recovery, perhaps found stripped? Regardless, I'm not going to take 50% of book because of this, I'd rather keep it. I'm just giving full disclosure, selling it isn't worth being dishonest to me. "

What do you think?
 
honestly....I would keep looking but that is just me. It sounds like a decent car, typical mods. The thing that would get to me the most is the history(basically unknown) and the paint. BUT if you get it at a good price...go for it. good luck. Oh and if you are in CA I know of a couple of nice cars for sale.
 
GNguy said:
honestly....I would keep looking but that is just me. It sounds like a decent car, typical mods. The thing that would get to me the most is the history(basically unknown) and the paint. BUT if you get it at a good price...go for it. good luck. Oh and if you are in CA I know of a couple of nice cars for sale.


The asking price on this one is $8500, that's pretty good right?

I am in California, what cars do you know of for sale? I am looking for a nice 1987 Grand National WITH T-Tops (coming from 8 F-Bodies it's a must for me).
 
Don't buy a slavaged title car unless you are spending $6000 or less for a pretty low mileage car! I almost bought that car before he told me it had a salvaged title!! Good thing I didn't! -----Jeremy
 
jdpolzin said:
Don't buy a slavaged title car unless you are spending $6000 or less for a pretty low mileage car! I almost bought that car before he told me it had a salvaged title!! Good thing I didn't! -----Jeremy


there is a big difference between a salvage title and a rebuilt title.
A rebuilt title means the car has been inspected by the state/DOT issuing the title and requires no further action.

$8500 is certainly reasonable for a clean car with the mods you listed.
If it was a non rebuilt title car,it be worth another 1000-1500 maybe
I would be leary of a salvage title car because it has not been inspected yet.

This is how it is in Connecticut,might be different elsewhere
 
Just to let you know, my car had about the same upgrades. It ran 11.8@ 115mph. As for the title thing, Be careful. If you are going to keep the car "forever", get it. If not, it may be harder to sale to the next guy. My car, I am keeping it forever! Took me 18 years to finally get somewhere in my life so that I could get one. Just my $.02. Good Luck!
 
Forget it....hold on to your money and accumulate a little more and you can afford a better example.
But keep looking...do your home work and know what to look for; try to get an all original, 1 owner type deal. I am always suspicious of the many mods, and then claims of low mileage--its not the hardest thing in the world to swap odometers besides they roll at 100k any way!
And dont pay before looking....(I know thats 90% of eBay sales)

Little story here...... but I had a guy advertizing a fixer upper $1800. I asked about it and he claimed mechanical/electrical problem and a dime size rust hole, and headliner problem, said he was tired of it and couldnt finnish the car. (It would have been a 4th vehicle to me, plans for full race w/ cage type car)
I drove 350 miles to look at this banged up, dirty, hacked, POS. and as for the dime sized rust you would need $2500. in dimes to cover it!
So if a guy will mislead for 1800....they will do it for alot more, (and he knew I was coming to see it! I guess he hoped I would have a sudden onset of dementia, loss of eyesight, or what-ever.)
So be careful and dont be afraid to ask like you did here ;)
 
Salvage, Rebuilt, Reconstructed, etc.....

Branding is different from state to state. The Polk manual will give you the differences, and it should be available at your library, a local friendly car dealer may have one for you to copy sections (on title branding in the appropriate states). The following DMV sites may help:

Illinois: http://www.cyberdriveillinois.com/departments/vehicles/title_registration/apply.html

Iowa: http://www.dot.state.ia.us/mvd/ovs/index.htm

Motor vehicle records are public records and for a fee you can obtain some good info:
Iowa - http://www.dot.state.ia.us/mvd/ovs/records.htm
As for IL, I don't know.

Anyway a rebuilt title might not stop you. The car, if you are satisfied with the condition, could be great fun for $3-6K less than an unbranded vehicle. If it runs and drives straight and fast, so what if you can't get the big buck resale. Kinda depends on what you are buying for. Somebody could drive it for less going in and of course less when you get out. Look it over real close with a friend and drive it, then decide.

I know of a local rebuild title (under 60K miles) that is for sale for $13K. Verrry nice car that was rebuilt in 88 or 89 when it had 19k miles. That may be too much $ but it gives you a compared to what idea, anyway.
 
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