control arm install???

[KevinBroadwater]

I just ordered lowre rear control arms +1/4 length and upper rear non adjustable from HRpartsnstuff.What is a ballpark time to put those things in and is it beter to use a lift?Do I need to get the tool to put the bushings in or not?THANK YOU

 

[tom h]

I once removed my stock control arms to install poly bushings in all positions, so a lot of this info should be applicable ...

- don't really need a lift. jack the frame high (~15-18") and let the rear end hang down all the way.

- only remove & install 1 arm at a time, else the axle may rotate and be a minor hassle to re-position.

- I work slowly ... if I weren't doing the bushings, just arms, I'd probably spend all day on it. I'm sure it could be done in under 4-6 hrs, though.

- Tool to remove the 2 bushings from axle is a good idea. Bushings are press fit VERY tight. No way ordinary hand tools would get them out. An impact-rated bushing driver on an air hammer would probably also work.

- The bolts & nuts holding the Arms in, use lock nuts (deforming style nut). Spray & soak with Liquid Wrench or equivalent. It will still be tedious to remove them. An impact wrench would be nice to have. If using hand tools, LONG handle 1/2 drive ratchets or breaker bars are essential, unless you bench press 500 lbs . These bolts & nuts are critical suspension components, if they need replacing (not likely) I'd use only original GM brand.

- miscellaneous blocks of wood would be handy ... sometimes old & new arms need a little persuasion to knock them out & back in.

 

[Red Regal T]

All of what Tom said. Be very helpful to have the air impact gun. Much more work without one. Bolts are 18mm I believe. I'd skip replacing the bushings on top of the rear housing unless they are destroyed. If I were going to remove these, I'd have to have the whole housing out of the car.

 

[machinegun]

First you got a good set of parts there. Now, I recommend the impact gun to help you take apart the whole thing. Your new arms will come with all the hardware. The bolts are 18 mm so make sure you have a socket and wrench in those sizes. The bushings in the upper rear end are a bear. Yes you can remove them without the tool but it is a pain. With the tool the time will be cut 10 fold and you can do it with the rear still in the car. I place the car high on jack stands. this will give you plenty of room. leave the shocks attached and remove the lowers and install them first. Once done you can install the uppers with moving the rear up and down. Do one at a time and you will be fine. Give yourself a day to do it. Not hard but is time consuming. Let me know if you have any questions and I will be more than happy to help.

 

[Terbro]

I'm considering boxed lower arms soon as well. I'll probably leave the bushings alone. What kind of a job is it when leaving the bushings alone?

Thanks,
Terry

 

[Outpost]

A quick way to remove the original bushings from the upper axle ears is to use a drill to blow multiple holes in the rubber part of the bushing. Use progressively larger drill bits until the rubber begins to disintegrate. At this point, the rubber part of the bushing can be removed, usually in pieces (this stage is a bit messy). Next, use a punch (or an old screwdriver) and a hammer and whack the side of the bushing inward to collapse it. With the help of penetrating oil, the bushing can then be hammered out from the front of the housing (towards the rear of the car). I've used this method many times, always on my back with the car on jackstands and the rear axle supported by a hydraulic jack (I don't own a lift). Be patient and careful, and the job shouldn't take more than three beers. Unbolting the lower shock mounts will allow the rear axle to hang at it's lowest point, providing the most working room, but be cautious about over-extending the rubber brake line that runs between the body and axle.
Installation of the new bushings is a bit more precarious, because the new bushing can be damaged if installed improperly. HR's tool or the METCO bushing tool can be very helpful here. You didn't specifically mention the installation of upper control arms, so I'll spare the details.

 

[KevinBroadwater]

Outpost
Yes I am doing both upper and lower.And thank you guys for all the help.I will take all the info I can get to make it easier for me.

 

[Kristi]

Kevin...You might consider purchasing HR's bushing tool to aid in the installation of the new bushings in the axle. Otherwise, an appropriately-sized block of wood or sturdy piece of flat steel should be used as a spacer so you can use a hammer to get the bushing started in the axle ear. Prior to beginning this task, coat the inside of the axle ear with grease and do the same on the outer shell of the new bushing. Some folks recommend leaving the new bushings in the freezer for a few nites prior to installation, which I have tried, but I can't say for sure if this helps or not.
I've found that a large C-clamp works perfectly to push the bushing into the axle ear. Be cautious that your spacer (described above) does not damage or crush the edges of the new bushing as it is pressed into the axle. The bushing must be fully seated in the axle for proper control arm alignment.
In most cases, the car's tailpipes will limit your working room in which to swing a hammer. For my next install, I plan to contact Paul (HRParts) and give his bushing tool a try.

Good luck with your installation.

 

[Kristi]

One Last Thing...

I'm sure Paul mentions this in his installation instructions, but be sure to torque all the control arm mounting bolts with the car's weight on the suspension, not with the axle hanging.

 

[Red Regal T]

SOUNDS LIKE A BARREL OF FUN, HUH?