I have a 6157e turbo. Currently the stall is 3200-3500. I thought I requested 3000-3200 when the trans got rebuilt but that ship has sailed. Transmission builder is recommending 2500-2800. Is there some mathematical equation that can get this dead on? Also, which would give me better gas mileage, the 2500-2800 or something higher? How can I decide which one to get? How much should it cost to get it restalled, parts and labor to remove and reinstall the transmission included? Can this be done while I wait? Thanks.
converter stall recommendation?
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Dusty Bradford
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Usually around $200 for a restall. It can not be done while you wait, it would take 1/2 a day even if it was possible for a shop to immediately cut the converter open, vat and wash the parts, restall the set-up, weld it back together and pressure test the converter.
How much it would cost to pull the tranny and reinstall it will depend on who does the work.
You need a 2800 converter. There is no way to know for sure what it will be which is why most companies offer a free stall change. There are several variables that can affect the stall on the car. All companies can go by is what combo works for the majority of the cars installed in, using feedback for the customers.
How much it would cost to pull the tranny and reinstall it will depend on who does the work.
You need a 2800 converter. There is no way to know for sure what it will be which is why most companies offer a free stall change. There are several variables that can affect the stall on the car. All companies can go by is what combo works for the majority of the cars installed in, using feedback for the customers.
Thanks! Problem is, trans. shop is 3 hours away. If I can't wait while it is being done, I'll have to come up with some other idea, like removing it locally and shipping it to him. Oh, what does "vat" mean?
Dusty Bradford
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"Vat" is a basically a washing machine for greasy parts. It uses a cleaning solution and high temperature to clean the converters once they are cut apart.
Order a PTC 10" 2800 LU from Dusty and be done with it. It took me 3 converter changes but the 2800 is DEAD on. There is no magic number for an exact converter. Only real world test will determine if the stall is right for your combo. It might be right the first time but you have to be willing to experiment until you find that happy medium of a good launch and a tight topend.
I already have $750 invested in this vegilante converter. I'll keep it in mind for next time though. Hey, this might be a related issue. When driving in town, the converter locks up at 45 mph and the car runs real sluggish. Would a 2800 stall solve this problem along with my no boost problem while power braking? Thanks for the good info, guys!
Dusty Bradford
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When a converter is locked, the stall rating will have no effect on how the car drives. It could be a 2000 or 4000, but when it's locked the converter isn't slipping.
If your car stalls 3200 at 0# of boost like what I'm assuming by your initial post, you should have no problems at all getting boost while powerbraking. If the car is at 3200 and can't build boost you need to look into the wastegate operation. Make sure it's sealed off against the turbine housing and working properly.
challengermike
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I have the same turbo in my car.When i put it together i had a 2800 that only stalled to 2,600.It would only build 5 #s of boost when brake torqueing.It was a real dog untill it reached full boost.I since have upgraded to a 3,200 stall.Its a night and day difference.I can brake torque it to 10-12 #s or untill the brakes wont hold it.It sounds to me like you have some other issue going on.I have also put a 3800 Stall in it just for fun.It would stall super fast but in between shifts it would sit at 3800rpm until the car caught of with it.So even if the stall was way to high you should still build boost.
Ok I guess I'm back to square one then. I've looked at every other problem that I could have. I've checked for exhaust leaks (found none), had the chip burner lean it out while power braking (didn't help), considered changing the cam (was told stock cam which is in there is fine), upgraded brake shoes on rear and installed new S-10 wheel cylinders (can hold car up to 3400 rpm). So I guess if boost doesn't kick in until 3500 rpm I'm clean out of options. Transmission builder was all set to restall the converter, too! 
I even put a plate in at the wastegate to totally block it off. It is an external ATR wastegate. Still no difference.
I even put a plate in at the wastegate to totally block it off. It is an external ATR wastegate. Still no difference.challengermike
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Is it possiable mabee the turbo doesnt spin freely?Maybe pull the intake pipe and make sure it does.I dont know what else to tell you.seems like you have tried everything.
I spun it when i first got it, to check for shaft play. Seems everyone is stumped on this one. GNVYUS is sending me his Casper cam sensor tool. He thinks maybe my cam sensor could be off. So have we definitely ruled out the torque converter?
challengermike
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I would think so.Mine spooled super fast with a 3800.No problems when trying to brake torque it.
challengermike
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Also if you are pushing threw the brakes then there is a pretty good load on the engine.I know mine doesnt start to push threw untill i reach 10-12#s of boost.Are you sure your boost gauge is correct?I know my car wouldnt push threw the brakes at all with the 2,600 stall.I could sit there all day with my foot to the floor at 5-6#s of boost.
Guage is correct. I even bought a second gauge to confirm it. Someone told me that if the boost came on sooner then the brakes would let go sooner, before I got to 3400 rpm. I would like to just take the car to someone knowledgable about turbo buicks, but there aren't any where I live, in Central Illinois.
Still fighting with this problem. My ATR front mount intercooler has a blow off valve that appears to be welded on to the bottom. Could the valve be stuck open? Where does it vent the air from? I'm thinking I should try putting on the stock intercooler. Also I thought maybe the cat. converter is plugged? Car runs fine though. I called PTE and they said to check back pressure in cross over pipe. He said it should be 1lb back pressure to 1 lb boost. I asked how to do that and he said to weld in an 1/8th" bung and screw in a gauge of some kind. He said that would test for a bad turbo. Sounds like a lot of work to me. Would be easier to replace the turbo with the stocker for testing purposes.
6157e.
Man how did I miss that, It's in the first 5 words of your post. Sorry about that. You should have plenty of converter for that turbo.
Anyway, the blow off valve vents the pressurized air from inside the IC to the atmosphere when the throttle blade is rapidly closed. You can try plugging it up or fabbing up a block off pate to eliminate it from the list for test purposes. Also pulling off the cat and running with the open downpipe is an easy test for excessive back pressure downstream on the turbo.
Anyway, the blow off valve vents the pressurized air from inside the IC to the atmosphere when the throttle blade is rapidly closed. You can try plugging it up or fabbing up a block off pate to eliminate it from the list for test purposes. Also pulling off the cat and running with the open downpipe is an easy test for excessive back pressure downstream on the turbo.
I just left the ATR front mount in place and will finish up installing the stock intercooler tomorrow. If this solves the problem, then I'll address the blow off valve next. If not, then its on to the catalytic converter. I'm afraid that it might be real hard to remove in one piece as its been on there 10 years or more. But you gotta do what you gotta do.
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