Coolant Gage Sending Unit Location, Where

[Granny 2]

Where is the proper place to put the coolant temp sending unit? On the LH side or the RH side of the intake?

Thanks

 

[Carolinaturbot6]

Right side. See #27 here:http://gnttype.org/maint/sensors.html#TOP

 

[Roger]

Great picture.
# 20 is the location of the "idiot" light sender - that's where I'd put a sender for an aftermarket gauge.
#27 is a necessary sender or the ECM & disturbing it will cause the ECM to act up.

 

[Granny 2]

Confused

The #27 has 2 wires and is on the LH (from the drivers seat) just above the Cam position sensor. There is one on the RH side with a single wire on it. I would assume this would be the one to use.

 

[Gn-Krazzie]

yep thats the one i did a search "temp.
sender" and thats where most ppl have installed it. I think its a 3/8" Npt tee thats required so you can have the best of both worlds, idiots light, and VDO sender.
Some ppl have used the 1/8" sender and placed them in the side of the block as well. Apperently there's 1/8" square headed pipe plug just below the drivers header

Hmmmmmm. the idiot's Guide to idiot Lights, sounds like an interested Book.
Thats my plan when i get a few minutes to install mine

Newmarket, Ontario Here Granny2

 

[Gn-Krazzie]

Whats your best idea on wiring this Electrically Newly FanGled devices ( Vdo Das Bot Temp. Gauge ). I need the wiring Guru's Idiots Guide to temp Gauge Wiring. Coarse 101 . Anyone please. Any good suggestions, Power from fuse Block??, Light power from dimmer switch ???

Sorry to steel your Thunder Granny2, but since we're on the subject

 

[TURBOV6]

#27 is the wrong location on the pic. It looks like the location where #26 is. Its located next to the water inlet/neck to the block. There is one wire thats for the factory idiot light.

 

[Carolinaturbot6]

Granny, I apologize for the error (#27 )

Thanks to the other guys who straightened that out.

 

[MSDGN]

Very simple wiring...wire from sending unit goes through the firewall and to gauge...connect ignition wire from gauge to one of the "IGN" spaces in the fuse box...there's 2 or 3 of them to pick from...positive wire for light goes to Instrument fuse on fuse box...get one of the connectors from Radio Shack that are shaped to fit around the fuse...you attach the wire to the connector...pull the fuse then clip the connector around the fuse then plug fuse back in...nice clean install...no cutting or having to tap into any wires...finally take the ground from the guage and the light... twist together and use ring terminal then attach to closest ground on the car

 

[Gn-Krazzie]

Thanks a Ton MSDGN

 

[Gn-Krazzie]

Call A PLUMBER or experienced sender guru


I went to install the 3/8" NPT Brass tee, the two sensors when threaded in interfer with one another. Ie The probe parts are to long. What do i do now ??? short nipple and coupling to lengthen the one sender . You all must have run into this problem whats the clean fix ? Special Tee ??? TIA

 

[salvageV6]

I think perhaps one from a plumbing store in that bronze finish would be larger and provide more clearance.

I got mine to fit somehow.

Maybe an elbow 90 degree and then put the sender in it, although it will space the sensing element further away from the water flow. Not a problem when heat soak sets in.

 

[Gn-Krazzie]

Anyone else have some Idea's

 

[Roger]

I put a "T" fitting in the intake where the "S" hose from the water pump goes. Allows me to use a 90* hose off a regular Regal or cut an "S" hose to fit. I put the "idiot" light sender in the "T" & put the temp gauge in the manifold where the "idiot" light sender came from.

 

[Gn-Krazzie]

Roger: Do you happen to know the I.D. of the "S" hose ?

 

[Roger]

It's been awhile since I ddid the change & it's hard to see in that area. Best I remember, everything is 1/2", hose & "T". I used a "street" "T" - it has a male on one side of the top of the "T" & females on the other side of the top & the bottom. With the "T" in the manifold, the "idiot" light sender then faces in the same direction as it did on the pass side of the manifold (the wire will pull back to the new location - which means it's long enough to reach). I used a (1/2", I think - could be 5/8' - you can aquire an "S" hose & measure it - the one on your TR probably needs repalcing anyways) hose to NPT adapter in the bottom of the "T" & it faces down. Either cut an "S" hose to fit or purchase a 90* bend hose from your loocal auto parts store.
Incidentally, this a very tight place to work & you need lots of patience. I did my stainless thermostat housing at the same time.

 

[Gn-Krazzie]

Okay here's the low down for the Sender Install ( inlet to "s" hose )

What you need:
3/8" Npt Brass tee
3/8" nipple
3/8" VDO Temp. Sender
Teflon Paste

The tee installs into the Intake manifold where the "s" Bypass Hose is. Thanks Roger for your help. Its best to remove all the factory wiring out of the way along with the up pipe, maf pipe. Remove the "s" bypass hose. Remove the water neck for the thermostat. Now remove the "Factory 3/8" x 5/8" hose adaptor from the intake manifold . Tread the nipple and sender into tee use a little teflon tape or paste on threads for sealing, thread assy into the intake manifold so the sender is pointing towards the front of the car. Tighten. Install the Factory Hose Adapt. 3/8" Npt x 5/8" in the bottom of the tee now facing down. Tighten and adjust the orientation so the adapt is pointing towards the opening on the water pump ( about 20 Deg off vert. ) Install the water neck now as its Freakin Tight and once you get the Hose on, there's no way to get the water neck bolt into the manifold. Cut "s" hose to form a 90 deg bend from the water pump to the Factory 3/8" x 5/8" adaptor. Its friggen tight to get this hose in. Thats about it.. PIA but its good to go

 

[Gn-Krazzie]

Wahoooooo I Have a working Temp. Gauge....Thanks Roger & MSDGN