I have used both a cork and the blue "slimy feeling" Felpro. I, IMO, like a cork gasket. ROL makes one as does another company whose name escapes me. E-mail me if you need it and I will dig it up.
A few tips. Remove any old gasket material. Chase the pan bolt holes with a tap. Mind the front holes, I know the bolt heads are different but I can not recall if the thread size is differnt as well. Flush the holes with a good cleaner that will not leave a residue. I just use O2 safe carb cleaner with a straw. Cup a shop rag over the hole to controll the falling cleaner and for God's sake don't get right under the hole and wear eye protection. This will get out any oil or trash that may squeeze out and disrupt the gasket while the RTV sets up. Clean the pan rails on the block as well as the pan with a good cleaner. The cleaner the better. Now is a good time to practice sliding the pan back into place so that you know what has to be done to get it in there. Figure out a way to do it where you can minimize or avoid hitting the pan rails on anything. When you do it for real there will be a gasket on there. Some find they need to rotate the crank a little for room depending on where it is at. Clean the pan and block again.
Dry fit the gasket to the pan. Put a thin coat of RTV on the pan rail the put the gasket in place. Put a thin coat of RTV on the exposed side of the gasket. You don't have to glob it on there, just a nice thin coat. Put the pan in place and finger tighten a couple of bolts to hold it up. Insert the rest of the bolts finger tight. Torque to spec. I like to alternate from side to side, starting in the center an working my way out, to get even pressure on the pan. I also like to torque in steps up to the correct number. I also like to let it sit overnight before I put oil back in and fire it so the RTV can set up. Depending on the weather you may want to wait longer.
Brent