Could Alky be dribbling in even if it's off?

[BuickMike]

The reason I ask this is because ever since I connected my Alky kit (Razor's minus the controller) I have had an issue where I can run it once and anytime after that the car will bog and even misfire at WOT, especially in the low end. I attributed this to bad tuning and decided to not play with alky until I get a controller.

Well, the other day I put in my street chip and took the car out for a drive. I got on it and it ran fine. After that the car would pop, sputter, backfire if I hit it from low RPM's in 1st gear. Keep in mind that at this point the Alky system has no power going to it and I'm running my street chip with 15psi.

If I get into it from a 45+ mph roll or ease into it from a slower roll the car runs fine. No knock, o2's are fine, etc.

Before you all ask, yes, the nozzle is up higher than the resovoir. Maybe something else is horribly wrong, but could this be because alky is dribbling into the intake, or maybe the IC even though the system is off? What could be wrong?

Thanks,
Mike

 

[Razor]

Easy, drain your alky tank and see if the problems go away.

If any small amount was getting siphoned out, the level on the tank would be noticeably lower.

Ya never got the rite chip.. your half way there.

 

[BuickMike]

Actually, I had Neal Steward take a shot at burning me an Alky chip. Whether I'm running alky or none, alky chip or street chip, I have the same problem. My next step is to siphon our the tank and see if that makes a difference. If that stops the problem, what should I look at in order to fix the problem?

 

[Razor]

Doubt it is. Do the test and post back.

 

[BuickMike]

I'll get around to it by this weekend. If the problem is not caused by the alky, what do you guys think may be the problem?

 

[2QUIK6]

Sound to me like a bad coil pack or ignition module. Mine did the same thing a while back, could ease into it, and it was fine. Nail it and if it went over 20# of boost it would pop and misfire.
Got a Caspers coil/ignition tester and found one of the 3 coild would start to misfire at around 6k rpms (no boost) Boost will accellerate the misfire at low rpms. The capers tests simulates the rpms. Anyway, changed the coil, and no more problems.
But misfires could be for a variety of reasons, running too rich, ground strap broke, coil, or ignition module.
The caspers tester is a great thing!

 

[BuickMike]

Thanks for the reply. I looked at the alky level and it never changed. I'll try draining it this weekend just for the fun of it and see what happens. Problem is I'm flat broke now that I have a baby and cannot afford Casper's tester. I'll call around and see if any of the locals have one.

 

[Razor]

Alky level never changed... bada bing.. you have your answer.

See if anyone has some parts they can swap for diag purposes.. i'd do a coil pack ign module swap and see if that clears the condition rite up.

When you get a little dough saved up.. get the basic 4 must have spares for our cars. Coilpack/ign module, ECM, MAF, and an O2 sensor.

Swapping those 4 out..if you still have probs.. THEN you start getting serious.

The above spares are priceless when you have a problem and trying to sort out the car. And if your frugal.. they all can be had rather inexpensively. Only tough one currently is the GM MAF.

 

[pacecarta]

while your on that subject razor

emergency parts that you should always have in the car

the type 1 GM coil were available recently on ebay for 25 +6 ship

the ignition module, kirban has new gm $175 ,

the 1227148 ECM is avaialable GM from gmpartsdirect.com for 84 shipped

if you go translator the 3" mafs are easy to get spares

i think red regalT has ecms and coil/module packs from pulls in the parts section , you could even get a type 11 coil /module from the yards for a backup

add to that kit

the cam sensor (complete not just the cap) is under 50 dollars (standard motors PC16) and they are new GM.
crank sensor, under 50 for gm
TPS
spares of fan and fuel relay
spare fuses
and a serpentine belt
and rad hoses

 

[2QUIK6]

Or you can buy another TR or TTA which you can enjoy, and when one has problems, swap the parts for problem determination Rather than having a pile of spare parts that you can't go enjoy from time to time.

 

[pacecarta]

or I could always just leave it alone and take the TATA, never had any problems with that like ive seen with the GN.

 

[BuickMike]

Honestly, I'd love to have a TTA. I'm really a sportscar guy.

 

[BuickMike]

Update: (Long)

I went through the car and cleaned up the connections on the ground strap and battery cables. I also pulled the spark plugs and re-gapped them. They were at .034 (oops), so I put them to .032.

Took the car out for a run and mostly it is better. If I hit it from a slow roll I feel it bog at the top of first. If I go from a good roll it's fine. If I go from a stop it's fine. If I load it up and hammer it from a stop it's fine.

Turbolink never caught it during the bog, but mostly everything looks good. Ay 15psi there was no knock, o2 volts stayed around 810 - 816mv. My MAF was reading between 225 and 238GPS. It actually went up and then came down. Isn't it supposed to peg at 255, or is that at higher boost levels?

I even got brave and pushed it to 20psi with alky (No variable controller yet) and got similar results from Turbolink. Zero knock, o2 volts between 812 - 820mv, but the MAF bounced from 225 to 255 to 226 to 245 to 235 and then stayed in the 235 - 236 range.

BLM's and integrator stayed very close to 128 except when at WOT where integrator is locked at 128 and BLM's are locked at 144. That's just the way my street chip is programmed.

I'm going to get to the junkyard soon and pickup a spare ECM, coilpack, and module, but could my MAF be going bad? I tried the old screwdriver tap and no stumble.

Let me know what you folks think.

Thanks,

Mike