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CPT6665DBB if you could choose a cam?

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benoitthegr8

Sociopathic TR Ownership
Joined
Mar 21, 2004
Messages
1,482
I have a Turbonetics 6665 turbo, the short block is being reworked, purchased the car with a comp 218/218 roller cam. I'm thinking its a little too much cam and may as well swap out the cam while the motor is apart being reworked. Have champion ported heads/ intake, and all the mods in the sig block also putting in 80 lb injectors, the block is being girdled with a forged crank and Pistons. I want to keep the street manners within reason, that's why I've keeped the PTE SLIC, suggestions would be appreciated, thanks BT.
 
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That can will be just fine with that combo. Your converter will play a big role in the performance of the car. What is in it now?
 
Maybe you should ask Bison to spec one out if you want to change the cam.
 
thanks for the replies, Art Carr or CPT 3200 9" N/L.

Spoke to Bison a few years ago and he said wayyyyy to much cam, can't remember his suggestion as this was like 2009-10 time, spent time deployed to the shitholes of the planet followed by 3 years in Japan. As I'm close to retiring from 24 years of Service and a broken body I've diverted part of my attention to getting the T on the road, hasn't been driven since 2011 and I'm itching to feel a good launch at boost, turbo kicks in and drowns my backside in the seat. I've jumped out of aircraft, shot trophy deer, been in fire fights and shot, IMO nothing get the sensory overload juices flowing like punching a worked 3.8 V6 T and realizing your not really driving the car only aiming it, sort of.....
 
Think you answered your question...
Thanks for your service. Glad your T is a good outlet for you.
 
Do you have a performance number you want to run or is this just a street cruiser using 93 octane? Or do you want to turn the boost up and let it eat? Was there something about the way it drove before that you did not like? A little more info so we can point you where want to go. And thanks for your years spent keeping our country safe!
 
As the motor was I wasn't comfortable crankin the boost, guy I bought the car from still had the stock short block....? Why rebuild the motor, heads, intake, cam and not put billet centers at a minimum for insurance, I dunno. My goal is 25psi on pump gas, ally and a good tune, it will run what it runs. I'm only a number oriented guy when it come to finances, but for giggles let's say I'd like to drive the T on MT Streets to the 1/4 mile strip near my house, make a few sub 11.0 runs and drive it home.
 
I went very low tens with a 206/206 hydro roller, your 218 is not optimal for you, a 206 0r 212 would would be better suited. There are several roller cam setups for these buicks, do you happen to know which one it is ie: weber or or someone else? is it a billet or cast cam? reason I ask is the way the timing chain setup is done is different for each one maybe you just replace the"cam" or you end up having to get a whole new set up. I have several "weber" style rollers that need to find new homes.
 
I ran that turbo with a 212/212 and a 2800 stall it was a bit laggy everywhere BUT wide open throttle, I agree with a higher stall 3200+ would be much better for a street application brawler...also I think it only came in single Ballbearing ..Plus 25#'s its just getting started.
 
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Don't mean to come accross as a d*** but plenty VENDORS that have performance cams: Nick, Bison, FTS, Dave, Lou, weber, etc.
For that setup and goals, any "off the shelf cam" will work. Give the vendors that pay the board so we can ask questions a chance.

Spend the extra cash on wb, pl, chip, ecu and a tune!

And THANK YOU for your service.
 
Assuming the numbers given are duration @.050" which by themselves are not enough to determine if or if not a cam should be used in a given application. Anyone who wants to know what a cam is really doing would need to analyze it or go off of others recs. A cam with 218@.050" and a small 3 bolt backpressure turbo would be used to run mid 9's unless the combo is going to be using a large hotside and drive pressure will be close to manifold pressure. If you're not going to degree the cam and have some reference points it won't really matter what you do unless you're way off on the cam. If you aren't spending the $$$ on a proper torque converter and aren't gearing the car for the intended usable rpm then the cam will matter none unless it's way off. From my testing the turbonetics 6665 with a small compressor cover sucked profusely and gave the turbine a hard time when trying to run over 60lbs/min with boost in the mid 20's. and higher. It caused so much back pressure at that point the compressor wouldn't even keep up with the demands of the engine over 5300rpm with the wastegate 100% closed! With that in mind I would want as little overlap as possible while still maintaining enough duration at mid ranges to fill the cylinder. Any extra overlap with that turbo will waste cylinder pressure on low boost and will pigeon hole the engines power band severely with a late closing exaust. Also high octane fuel and higher CR. Tall gearing, proper converter, suspension work, and keeping rpm under 5400 throughout a pass will make it run numbers. If the heads are decent it will crap out really hard around 5500 if trying to run numbers. None of this would matter much in a 10.70 or slower car with this turbo but if trying to go 10.20 with it you'd need to work around the mismatch of wheels/housings.


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Assuming the numbers given are duration @.050" which by themselves are not enough to determine if or if not a cam should be used in a given application. Anyone who wants to know what a cam is really doing would need to analyze it or go off of others recs. A cam with 218@.050" and a small 3 bolt backpressure turbo would be used to run mid 9's unless the combo is going to be using a large hotside and drive pressure will be close to manifold pressure. If you're not going to degree the cam and have some reference points it won't really matter what you do unless you're way off on the cam. If you aren't spending the $$$ on a proper torque converter and aren't gearing the car for the intended usable rpm then the cam will matter none unless it's way off. From my testing the turbonetics 6665 with a small compressor cover sucked profusely and gave the turbine a hard time when trying to run over 60lbs/min with boost in the mid 20's. and higher. It caused so much back pressure at that point the compressor wouldn't even keep up with the demands of the engine over 5300rpm with the wastegate 100% closed! With that in mind I would want as little overlap as possible while still maintaining enough duration at mid ranges to fill the cylinder. Any extra overlap with that turbo will waste cylinder pressure on low boost and will pigeon hole the engines power band severely with a late closing exaust. Also high octane fuel and higher CR. Tall gearing, proper converter, suspension work, and keeping rpm under 5400 throughout a pass will make it run numbers. If the heads are decent it will crap out really hard around 5500 if trying to run numbers. None of this would matter much in a 10.70 or slower car with this turbo but if trying to go 10.20 with it you'd need to work around the mismatch of wheels/housings.


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Allot of good information there, all this really makes me think I should have bought a bone stock Regal without any bells and whistles and built it myself. The Mystery cam issue is getting frustrating especially since all I know is it's a 218/218 comp roller? Anyway don't see spending the money on a turbo or convert or so what it has is what I'm running, I figured a cam and pushrods better suited for the turbo and converter wouldn't turn into getting an explanation that sounds as if this combo could be problematic if wanting to try turning lower numbers. Anyway how do I contact you to get a cam ordered?
 
Allot of good information there, all this really makes me think I should have bought a bone stock Regal without any bells and whistles and built it myself. The Mystery cam issue is getting frustrating especially since all I know is it's a 218/218 comp roller? Anyway don't see spending the money on a turbo or convert or so what it has is what I'm running, I figured a cam and pushrods better suited for the turbo and converter wouldn't turn into getting an explanation that sounds as if this combo could be problematic if wanting to try turning lower numbers. Anyway how do I contact you to get a cam ordered?
PM me or go to the link on my sig for a link to the FB page ith contact data. I dont like to post my number on the forums because it leads to endless tech calls. On a side not you could measure the lobe lift at a pushrod with a a dial indicator and i can try and match it to a known lobe. Converter and taller gearing would net way more e.t. than a cam change.
 
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