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Cranks and cams

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chevellejoe

Member
Joined
Apr 2, 2010
Messages
99
So I found some major damage to my motor and it appears it started from a cam lob wearing out (prevous owner used mobil one oil). So in turn I need to replace the crank, cam and bearings. Crank has been cut 20 thousandths already which I hear is already over the limit for stock. I would by a new stock replacement but they are discontinued, so unless I buy a Chinese POS (which I won’t) I will have to buy forged. Does anyone know the difference between the 4340 crank from TA Performance for 795.00 and the one from GN1 for 649.00 besides the price difference? Also I am looking into getting a roller cam, has anyone had an issue using a morel lifter compared to a comp cam lifter (kit from Full Throttle Speed). Thanks.
 
location ???

I have a .010--.010 turbo crank for sale--haven't listed it yet. Do a search on Morel lifters. Seems that they had a problem with the roller pin moving.
 
I believe both the TA and GN1 forged cranks are Chinese made. Also to consider, Probe Industries lists a forged stock stroke Buick V6 crank for $517.
 
So I found some major damage to my motor and it appears it started from a cam lob wearing out (prevous owner used mobil one oil). So in turn I need to replace the crank, cam and bearings. Crank has been cut 20 thousandths already which I hear is already over the limit for stock. I would by a new stock replacement but they are discontinued, so unless I buy a Chinese POS (which I won’t) I will have to buy forged. Does anyone know the difference between the 4340 crank from TA Performance for 795.00 and the one from GN1 for 649.00 besides the price difference? Also I am looking into getting a roller cam, has anyone had an issue using a morel lifter compared to a comp cam lifter (kit from Full Throttle Speed). Thanks.

If you find a new forged crank for under $1200 its likely from China.
 
Probe Industries sounds like a plan to me. Cant beat 517.00 each. I have a feeling they are all the same anyway.
 
One other thing, if you may be considering a stroker crank, check out Ebay for Forged 4340 3.625" ( and 3.400) stroke cranks available for $559.99 shipped.
 
In the old days lots of people said 0.010" was the limit to cut a stock crank. Nowadays a lot of people have gone 0.020" with no problems, and a few have gone further. You can find a stock crank either already cut or ready to be turned for a couple hundred $$ pretty easily, so that is the cheapest option. I think all the cheap 4340 forged cranks are forged in China, some are finish machined there and some here. If you have already decided that you are going to get a forged crank no matter what then if you need pistons anyway I would recommend going up to a stroker kit. If you add up the prices the stroker crank is only a little more than stock stroke, the pistons are about the same, and the stock rods are plenty strong but it costs about the same for a set of K1's as it does to recondition the stockers (well, a little more :-)). Just have the block work done by a shop familiar with these motors so they clearance the oil passage and whatever else correctly. Also, depending on who you buy a crank or stroker kit from it may need work at the machine shop before you can run it, so just because someone's price is higher it doesn't mean it's not the best deal overall.
 
Right now i am leaning towards a forged crank. I figure i will have to have the crank machined and balanced no matter which way i go, so for the extra 300 i will rather a forged crank and internally balance it. The pistons i have are .030 over Speed Pro Forged, stock rods with arp bolts, and girdle.
 
so for the extra 300 i will rather a forged crank and internally balance it.
I wish it were only $300. Your looking at at least another $700 if you buy a damper and re-balance it if the crank needs nothing else which they usually do. If you use a stock crank you can avoid balancing it.
 
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