What is/are the differences between filters? Also, the distinction between "track" car and "street" car. Could you have a car you drive on the street and take to the track?
The reason I ask is, I recently posted a thread and someone quoted another reply with the same question, however, it was never answered. I see these terms (track car and street car) being used more and more each week..... Or, at least seems like it.....
Sorry if it sounds like I'm splitting hairs, or getting into semantics.
It all depends on what you are trying to do. Most TRs should use the premium Wix or Wix XP. In some high pressure or even dry sump applications a racing filter might be necessary. Also could be advantageous if using heavy weight racing motor oils at high volume.
To answer your question, the biggest difference in the filters is in the media. Also, a track car is a race car that gets trailered to the track and doesn’t see street driving. A racing filter should not be used for street use or daily driving. This goes for fuel and air too.
I always notice that everyone gets touchy when it come to oil filters, but no one ever thinks twice about throwing a k&n air filter on a daily driver. I even see some people run no air filter at all on turbo cars. But then want to take oil filtration serious? The demand of an oil filter is to filter out 5 quarts of oil for 3000 miles. The air filter, on the other hand, is asked to filter thousands of gallons of air. The incoming air is responsible to over 40% of cylinder wear in an engine.
I’ve never seen an engine fail solely due to lack of oil filtration. But I have seen plenty of engines fail because of a bypassed/faulty air filter. If fact I’ve wrote labor claims up for “dusted” engines. 8oz of dirt can destroy a big Diesel engine. Yet I bet everyone here has a k&n on their TR. just saying.
Well that is a tricky question . I had a k&n for a long time, but always ran a foam pre filter. Wix isn’t really into the aftermarket high flow filter business. More so OEM quality replacements. So, I am currently working on utilizing a Wix 49896 air filter. We built this filter for Ford, specific to the supercharged 2011 GT500 and Bullet Mustang. Problem is it’s hard for me to “recommend” this filter since it has a 4” inlet, where most of us have a 3” intake pipe/maf. So a bell will be needed. Secondly, it is a fairly pricy filter for a disposable one. I get them for free, so it makes sense for me. If you know someone with a Wix fleet discount pricing, it might be worth a shot. But it’s made with our high efficiency media(99.95% efficient) and should have plenty of flow for most TR.
The best thing to tell you if you run a K&n or similar washable filter is to make sure you keep it charged properly with oil.
When we flow test these air filters for comparison in either a single pass or multi pass test, the results are almost laughable. 20 micron particles blow right thru even when properly oiled. And if they are not oiled it’s a joke. I like to say, “they basically stop birds, bees, and dragon flys”. But see, they do what K&N claim for them to do. Free up horsepower, improve throttle response and flow more air. Which is what everyone here is after. If you have a off road piece of equipment or a diesel truck you run on a job site or farm, I’d tell you to throw it in the garbage before you ruin your engine. But most people won’t have any problems under normal conditions bc they won’t keep a vehicle long enough for cylinder wear to become a problem.
Same goes for running a Wix racing oil filter. I would bet that anyone running a racing oil filter will push a head gasket due to detonation, long before they got to worry about bearing wear due to a racing oil filter.
As I just stated, I’m playing around with a Wix 49896. I’ll let you know how it turns out when i get my intake back on. If I had a filter factory in my garage, I could build custom filters for everyone here. But I don’t. So I’m working with parts available. I work for Mann-Hummel, but since I’m not Rick Hendrick or Richard Childress, I can’t just call engineering and tell them to build me a filter for my car, lol. If I could it wouldn’t be feasible.
If you run the k&n or similar, I’d recommend to keep it under the hood, not in the fender or in front of the grille. And keep it oiled properly without over oiling. Possibly look into running a outerwears or foam prefilter too.
Okay, since now you understand that flow and efficiency are a trade off in any type of filter. Enough on air filters. Back on the subject of the Cruz adaptor...
I would recommend a racing oil filter for the people who have modified oil pump and timing covers, who mostly run their car on a track. Definitely not Daily drivers. And especially would recommend the use of one if running heavy weight racing oil (ie. Straight sae50 or 20w50) in cooler climates or at high volume and pressure. If anyone thinks you can push cold 50 weight at 90psi thru a 17 micron rated filter you are wrong. The oil pump will bypass the filter anyway. So ask yourself what is better? Filter all the oil at full flow, but at lower efficiency, or constantly bypass the higher efficiency oil filter? This is why we make and sell racing filters. They aren’t right for a lot of applications, but definitely have their place. If you are speculating about the condition of your oil. Pull an oil sample after your interval. Wix has part 24077 oil analysis kit you can purchase for around $13. Send it to the 3rd party lab and find out if what you are doing is working.
Wix racing filters are high flow and built to handle heavy weight oils at high volume and high pressure without risking collapse. But at the sacrifice of efficiency.