cutlass 442

gas

Here in florida, I never let my car go below a quarter tank. The humidity that would result is a good way to get water in the gas tank. On this car, the gas guage reads 1/8th, and I still have 5 gallons in the tank. So I'm thinking that if I don't go below this, I would be fine? So what external pump are people using for 350hp cars.
 
sorry for the thread highjack !

i have 2 87 442's that are getting parted .i parted 2 86 442's last year also chopped up a 85 &87 cutlass so if you guys need anything drop me a line.
203 213 9126
 
Update

I have taken the mechanical fan off the 307 and installed a stock 87 GN electric fan . The 442 comes with a 87 GN radiator already. I had to use the radiator hold-down plate from a turbo regal, since the one from the 442 doesn't have the two mounting brackets for the clips and bolts. I have scoped out how I'm going to change the fuel system. The car actually comes with three lines running to the front of the car. I was surprised, since it has a carb and a mechanical fuel pump on the front of the engine. I will have to relocate the charcoal canister to the driver's side. I will then relocate the battery to the passenger side with the help of a turbo regal positive battery cable(longer). The feed and return lines will have to be slighty modified to the driver's side. None of this should be difficult. I have decided to use an external electric fuel pump for the build. Jegs, Summit and Holley all have these that pump similiar to a 70gph GN pump. The only thing I'm not sure about is adding the fuse to the Cultlass fuse block for the fuel injectors.
 
Watching this thread.

I have an 85 442 and an 87 GN.

Garret, I am in South Florida, where are you located?
 
Hey Garrett, I didn't forget about you just been really busy! I dug up some of the old notes but haven't had time to scan them in yet. Will try to do that tonight.
Jason
 
Ok, here are some notes I found. This is the bulkhead connector at the firewall. This is where all the connections from the engine harness connect to the fuseblock. There are two long screws clips to remove the fuse block from the connector and a large screw in the center that joins the interior side with the engine side of the c100 bulkhead connector. Basically, it is 3 pieces.
You will want to make sure that everything lines up with the GN engine harness side.
 

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Ok, please forgive the unabomber style notetaking here. I took these trying to figure out the wiring while working under the dash. This is a quick sketch of my fuse block. Wehre it says things like "2 pink" means there were two pink wires going into the space. Each square was a slot, some weren't important to what I was doing so they aren't noted.

For the injectors; my notes say move connector C6 on GN connector to D4 but I am pretty sure I didn't move anything on the Buick harness. I think I moved the the wire on the Cutlass harness.

Please note that there are differences from car to car based on model and options. I found a lot of info about Monte Carlo swaps that were slightly different than Cutlass or Regal. Also, Cutlass Brougham (which is what I had) is different than base Cutlass or 442.
 

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ECM pinout # A1 is for the fuel pump
 

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Garrett I don't know if you know this already or not but the 442 tach has a switch on the back that lets you choose between 6 cyl and 8 cyl as they used the same tach across the model lineup.
I think you would still need a converter for the tach signal though which I think Caspers has.
 
thanks

Thanks Jason, I didn't know about the tach. jsta6, I'm in the Fort Myers area. PM me.
 
fuel pump and fans

I will not be tying the oil pressure sender into the fuel pump like the factory did. Also, I have the fans wiried to stay on all the time with a Casper's wiring harness designed for the Hotair cars. I think the fans just stay on high all the time. It's not really an issue since it's always hot down here in SW Florida.
 
I just ran the wire for the fuel pump straight off the ecm to the pump.
I had the fans wired like a GN origially then had some problem years later where they wouldn't turn on so I bought a hot wire kit with a lighted toggle switch inside. I don't recall if that was Caspers or Racetronix.
 
On the ecm side almost all of it is plug and play off of the engine harness to the ecm. You may want to pull the inner fender off to access the hole the wiring passes through.
Alos, as you already know I am sure, GNTTYPE.org was an immense help as well as vortexbuicks.com. There is a member on here who was selling GN shop manuals on CD rom to fund getting his car painted. I forget what his user name is but I remember he has changed it since.
 
I had a 86 cutlass black with grey,put a 9" ford rear,T350 level 10,modified V6, reversed a monte carlo rear spoiler-looked good but had to sell it before putting the turbo motor in- good luck with yours-looks sweet!
 
thanks

I am doing body work on the grey portion, little by little. I have a rust free driver's door to put on, when I can get a friend to help.
 
injector wiring

I guess I will add the injector wiring to the location marked Diesel. I have to figure out how the purple with black stripe wire goes to the dash and then returns to the receptacle that plugs into the engine wiring harness.
 
On the ecm side almost all of it is plug and play off of the engine harness to the ecm. You may want to pull the inner fender off to access the hole the wiring passes through.
Alos, as you already know I am sure, GNTTYPE.org was an immense help as well as vortexbuicks.com. There is a member on here who was selling GN shop manuals on CD rom to fund getting his car painted. I forget what his user name is but I remember he has changed it since.

Here it is...Factory TR Service Manual
 
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