D6 converter

[NorCalTurbos]

Does anyone know what gm car the D6 converter came in? Any specs on it, I thought the original converter is the D5 for the Gn

 

[cwmccray]

I think D6's originally came out of v8 cars with the 200r4, 700r4, or 4l60e and have a lower stall (~1300 - 1500 or so). However, it could have been restalled at some point. You won't know for sure until you see what your rpm's are at 0-1psi while standing on the brake.

 

[cwmccray]

I would make sure you have a BQ Tranny also. You should have had a D5 converter also. The TRs used the same D5 torque convertor from 84-87. One of the big differences in the way they shift is the second gear servo located on the side of the trans. Replace this with an 87 or even better, one of the billet aftermarket units and it will shift much crisper. This is accessable from the outside. I've heard the 86-7 turbo second gear servo is just a regular servo from a 200-c trans which can be found at junkyards.

If you're taking the trans to have it rebuilt, make sure they put your stock D5 back in. Very few trans shops know the difference and they will replace it with a D6 or D7 which will stall at 1,200rpm. You won't be able spin the tires in the rain no matter how hard you try. Any aftermarket convertors made for the 87 trans will fit the 84 just fine. Remember, they are exactly the same with the exception of the valvebody and servo and 86.5-87 got the 10 vane pump vs 7 vane.

Both 84/85 BQ tranny and 86/87 BRF tranny are "good". I always thought that they were put together differently to handle the extra torque that the turbo motors produced (?). Both are different than and prefered over other 200r4's that came in other non-turbo makes/models. Although I know the CZ that came in the '86~ 442 is also supposed to be "good". Anyway, as stated yes the BRF is preferred over all because it has a different VB and Servo from the factory which simply firmed up the shift a bit. Not that its stronger than the BQ or anything like that, and not that you couldnt easily firm up the shift yourself and surpass the performance of the BRF. A shift kit in a BQ along with a servo upgrade and as they say, your golden. My stock '85 with stock BQ shifts decent (at least as good as my BRF originally did) as is completely OE, so I'm thinking with a shift kit it would be really nice with the servo.

 

[TexasT]

There are several different factory servos from the th200. You are looking for casting numbers 112/133 or 113/134 on the cover and piston. The "692" is the last the digits of the casting number on the bq as well as the kz as I understand it. The "694" is the one from the brf it is the largest 2004r from the factory, but those I mentioned above are larger but from the 200.
The vb and gov make the difference and mix and match with those should probably be left to the experts. There are known combos that work . You can search that.
Seven vane pumps from the factory in every 2004r I ever goofed with. I stay with them but put hard rings in and stiffer slide spring. Larger boost valves and spring.
Also hard stator support and sun shell on every overhaul. Just cheap insurance.

 

[INEEDAGN]

Not trying to sound like a dick...but...lets keep the internet 100% factual LOL

I would make sure you have a BQ Tranny also. You should have had a D5 converter also. The TRs used the same D5 torque convertor from 84-87.

The 84-5 used a slightly different converter, though they are both D5. the 5 simply means #5 stator

here's a hot air D5 "CBBF"

I dont have one out of a car, but the 86-87 used a "CBCF" which has a different converter clutch rating. The letter designations can be deciphered here:

http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/transmission/converterterm.html

Any real world difference? Probably not, but they are different part numbers.

And here's a cheapo high stall 12" I bought years ago.. Again, number 5 stator...

 

[INEEDAGN]

And while we're at it...(though off topic)..

I've heard the 86-7 turbo second gear servo is just a regular servo from a 200-c trans which can be found at junkyards.

Not the same. The 694 was used only in 86-87 turbo buick "BRF" units but as stated, other (better) aftermarket servos exist and some of the early single piston 200c servos are larger area and are old school ways of increasing the band apply pressure.

Remember, they are exactly the same with the exception of the valvebody and servo and 86.5-87 got the 10 vane pump vs 7 vane.

BQ vs. BRF are very similar but none of them ever had factory 10 vane pumps. You are thinking of the "690" pump casting which was introduced in mid 86 which has a machined step to help keep the bushing from walking out of its bore and features improved drainback mods to help keep the seal from blowing out, but still 7 vane.

Both 84/85 BQ tranny and 86/87 BRF tranny are "good". I always thought that they were put together differently to handle the extra torque that the turbo motors produced (?). Both are different than and prefered over other 200r4's that came in other non-turbo makes/models. Although I know the CZ that came in the '86~ 442 is also supposed to be "good". Anyway, as stated yes the BRF is preferred over all because it has a different VB and Servo from the factory which simply firmed up the shift a bit. Not that its stronger than the BQ or anything like that, and not that you couldnt easily firm up the shift yourself and surpass the performance of the BRF. A shift kit in a BQ along with a servo upgrade and as they say, your golden. My stock '85 with stock BQ shifts decent (at least as good as my BRF originally did) as is completely OE, so I'm thinking with a shift kit it would be really nice with the servo.

BQ and BRF both got some unique improvements, mostly differences in thrust washers, other performance codes had minor differences as well which were related to handling extra RPM. Same hard parts but not identical in every sense.

Hope I didn't sound like a dick...

 

[NorCalTurbos]

Thanks everyone, so far it's looking like and feels like the wrong tc, the car does shift weird I've been in other TRs and GNs that if you in it while shifting to second it will chirp pretty loud, mine is nothing like that I probably will be pulling the trans soon, reason being it shakes in gear but in park idles and revs like a champ, once I put it in gear it starts to shake . Feels like a bad misfire but it can't be felt in park like I said it idles great except in gear I'm thinking it's something with the trans and now I know the converter has been screwed with, who knows what else. I swear this is making me all this time and I still can't enjoy the car

 

[TexasT]

Unplug the electrical connector from the side of the trans and see if it makes a difference on your jerkiness when you pull it into gear.

If it does a new lockup solenoid might be your problem. Pretty easy to change and you can do a fluid/ filter change while you are there.

 

[NorCalTurbos]

Unplug the electrical connector from the side of the trans and see if it makes a difference on your jerkiness when you pull it into gear.

If it does a new lockup solenoid might be your problem. Pretty easy to change and you can do a fluid/ filter change while you are there.

I've tried that a couple of times with no results it still jerks, when I'm pulled out the driveway my dad asked me if my bumper was bolted up right it looks like it's gonna fall off

 

[bison]

Unless it's a factory converter the stampings don't matter. Plenty of d5 with the wrong pump and stator out there these days. If car jerks when put in forward gear and not reverse it's likely someone deleted the forward wave plate in the clutch stack up.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[cwmccray]

NORCALTURBOS Based on what you had stated, you may not have the correct tranny and converter. I bought my car from a couple. The passenger side rear window had been replaced. The car had not ran in a year ( I think it was longer). I got the car running and ended up having to put another engine in the car. Long story short, someone broke the dip stick off in the pan.... After I put a new motor in and drove the car. The Tranny was not right. Someone changed the tranny for a AA code tranny. I has bought two BRF trannys and I stole a CZF ($50.00). All trannys came with D5 converters. A friend gave me a BQ tranny and it also came with a D5. If you can find a Monte Carlo SS (CZF, CQF), Cutlass 442 (KZF, KQF) or any Turbo Regal (BQF, BRF), buy it. Extreme Automatic has a BRF replacement Valve body. You have to get your tranny straight before you can make any power

 

[Dusty Bradford]

Unless it's a factory converter the stampings don't matter. Plenty of d5 with the wrong pump and stator out there these days. If car jerks when put in forward gear and not reverse it's likely someone deleted the forward wave plate in the clutch stack up.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Bison is correct. I ignore the stampings. I've seen plenty of D5's that stall 400 rpm lower than what a stock GN converter will stall.

 

[NorCalTurbos]

Unless it's a factory converter the stampings don't matter. Plenty of d5 with the wrong pump and stator out there these days. If car jerks when put in forward gear and not reverse it's likely someone deleted the forward wave plate in the clutch stack up.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Jerks in reverse and drive mainly with my foot on the break it cruises ok just shifts weak. I took it out last night and it wouldn't break the tires in the rain I know something is definitely not right

 

[NorCalTurbos]

NORCALTURBOS Based on what you had stated, you may not have the correct tranny and converter. I bought my car from a couple. The passenger side rear window had been replaced. The car had not ran in a year ( I think it was longer). I got the car running and ended up having to put another engine in the car. Long story short, someone broke the dip stick off in the pan.... After I put a new motor in and drove the car. The Tranny was not right. Someone changed the tranny for a AA code tranny. I has bought two BRF trannys and I stole a CZF ($50.00). All trannys came with D5 converters. A friend gave me a BQ tranny and it also came with a D5. If you can find a Monte Carlo SS (CZF, CQF), Cutlass 442 (KZF, KQF) or any Turbo Regal (BQF, BRF), buy it. Extreme Automatic has a BRF replacement Valve body. You have to get your tranny straight before you can make any power

I know it's something weird with the trans, last night in the rain it wouldn't do a stand still. In the driveway I let my brother listen to me rev it a few times and he got a hard on by the way it sounds but it runs like a slug going uphill. What's the best way to know what trans from what year is in my car?

 

[NorCalTurbos]

 

[NorCalTurbos]

 

[NorCalTurbos]

Unplug the electrical connector from the side of the trans and see if it makes a difference on your jerkiness when you pull it into gear.

If it does a new lockup solenoid might be your problem. Pretty easy to change and you can do a fluid/ filter change while you are there.

I posted a couple of pics idk if this helps but I'm really wanting to know if I have the right trans in the car. Thanks for all the help

 

[NorCalTurbos]

NORCALTURBOS Based on what you had stated, you may not have the correct tranny and converter. I bought my car from a couple. The passenger side rear window had been replaced. The car had not ran in a year ( I think it was longer). I got the car running and ended up having to put another engine in the car. Long story short, someone broke the dip stick off in the pan.... After I put a new motor in and drove the car. The Tranny was not right. Someone changed the tranny for a AA code tranny. I has bought two BRF trannys and I stole a CZF ($50.00). All trannys came with D5 converters. A friend gave me a BQ tranny and it also came with a D5. If you can find a Monte Carlo SS (CZF, CQF), Cutlass 442 (KZF, KQF) or any Turbo Regal (BQF, BRF), buy it. Extreme Automatic has a BRF replacement Valve body. You have to get your tranny straight before you can make any power

I posted a couple of pics when you get a chance let me know if I have the right trans and if not which one should I get

 

[Dusty Bradford]

The tag doesn't even match a 200-4r. That tag pulls up as a 70's model T-375/400. The converter can be anything. Many are just stock V8 converters ordered from local transmission shops. These cars are so old now that chances are when the transmission took a crap, the owner had them rebuilt at your local trans shop which is why few of them work correctly.

Here are the 200-4r tags
BRF 1986-1987 Grand National, Turbo T, T-type
BQ 1984-1985 Grand National, T-type
BR 1983 T-type
TAF 1989 Turbo Trans Am
CZF 1985-1988 Chevrolet Monte Carlo SS
CRF 1985-1988 Monte Carlo 305 engine LG4
KZF Oldsmobile 442/Hurst
OZ 1983-1984 Hurst Olds
OM Oldsmobile 350 Diesel Engines
OG Oldsmobile 307 Engines
BY 252 V6 cars
AA Cadillac
AP Cadillac

 

[NorCalTurbos]

Good grief gonna be pulling it soon like I thought, thanks