I want to put a turbo dash cluster in a regular regal. I have plans to put my whole drivetrain from my rusty T-type in this solid regal body. What problems or difficulties will I have putting this turbo dash cluster in the regal. I would like to have the working RPM and turbo guage at the lower right corner, when the conversion is complete.
dash cluster conversion
- Thread starter garrett
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I'd just swap the whole GN dash
That's what I did too:wink: I think it would be a ....... to do otherwise!
Good luck!
dash conversion
I don't want to swap the whole dash because the type dash is grey and I want to make the regular regal into a turbo car and the interior is maroon. The dash clusters have to be physically similiar. The only thing that's different between the two is the boost and rpm LED display at the bottom right corner. I was just wondering what needs to be pluged in, in order to make it work. I guess, if nobody on this site has done it, I will try to get the answers from the folks at Casper's electronics.
I don't want to swap the whole dash because the type dash is grey and I want to make the regular regal into a turbo car and the interior is maroon. The dash clusters have to be physically similiar. The only thing that's different between the two is the boost and rpm LED display at the bottom right corner. I was just wondering what needs to be pluged in, in order to make it work. I guess, if nobody on this site has done it, I will try to get the answers from the folks at Casper's electronics.
turbojustin
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From my understanding, the turbo and NA dash wiring are the same with the addition of a wire added for both the boost and tach gauges on the turbo wiring. That is to say, when you swap in the turbo engine it will work without changing the dash wiring, but your boost and tach gauges won't work. So, you should be able to just add the two wires to your existing harness and pin them in at the gauge connector. In my opinion, this will be a PITA for what it's worth since those gauges are nothing more than eye candy.
On the other hand, you could just swap the dash wiring from a turbo car. It's not nearly as hard as you think. I did mine in about 2 hours. If my memory is correct, the dash is held in by 4 heavy sheet metal screws at the bottom and several small screws under the speaker grill/dash top thingy. Remove all those and then remove the wiring from the dash (it's also held in with screws). Swap it out and you're done. You also need to remove the plug that is attached to the firewall.
On the other hand, you could just swap the dash wiring from a turbo car. It's not nearly as hard as you think. I did mine in about 2 hours. If my memory is correct, the dash is held in by 4 heavy sheet metal screws at the bottom and several small screws under the speaker grill/dash top thingy. Remove all those and then remove the wiring from the dash (it's also held in with screws). Swap it out and you're done. You also need to remove the plug that is attached to the firewall.
The above post is close.
Disconnect the battery first...
To remove the dash, first open the hood and take the center bolt out of the bulkhead connector on the drivers side (1/4")
Under the dash you will need to remove the 2 screws that hold the inner part of the bulkhead connector to the firewall (2-7mm screws)
Lower the steering column, or remove it completely as this will facilitate removal of the dash. with the column out of the way you should beable to depress the lock to remove the speedo cable from the back of the dash.
Disconnect parking brake release cable from parking brake assembly.Unbolt the 3 10mm bolts under the dash. 1 each in the outer corners and 1 to the right side of the radio/heater control area.
Remove the radio, and unbolt the heater controls from the dash shell, allow the heater control to fall to where the radio was. When you pull the dash out, that will stay in the car. disconnect the wiring from the AC controls to the rest of the dash wiring.
Disconnect the 3 connectors under the right side of the dash.
Remove the top speaker grill (either 7mm or 1/4") cover then remove the 4 7mm screws that hold the top of the dash to the firewall.
At this point the dash *should* be loose. it may be easier to have a helper take the dash out of the car.
There may be more connectors I do not recall off hand, but thats pretty close. Good luck... a first timer may take 2 hours OR more to get out... Installation is reverse of removal.
Disconnect the battery first...
To remove the dash, first open the hood and take the center bolt out of the bulkhead connector on the drivers side (1/4")
Under the dash you will need to remove the 2 screws that hold the inner part of the bulkhead connector to the firewall (2-7mm screws)
Lower the steering column, or remove it completely as this will facilitate removal of the dash. with the column out of the way you should beable to depress the lock to remove the speedo cable from the back of the dash.
Disconnect parking brake release cable from parking brake assembly.Unbolt the 3 10mm bolts under the dash. 1 each in the outer corners and 1 to the right side of the radio/heater control area.
Remove the radio, and unbolt the heater controls from the dash shell, allow the heater control to fall to where the radio was. When you pull the dash out, that will stay in the car. disconnect the wiring from the AC controls to the rest of the dash wiring.
Disconnect the 3 connectors under the right side of the dash.
Remove the top speaker grill (either 7mm or 1/4") cover then remove the 4 7mm screws that hold the top of the dash to the firewall.
At this point the dash *should* be loose. it may be easier to have a helper take the dash out of the car.
There may be more connectors I do not recall off hand, but thats pretty close. Good luck... a first timer may take 2 hours OR more to get out... Installation is reverse of removal.
turbojustin
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All those details kinda takes the fun out of a project like this. I enjoy the small surprises that end up getting my knuckles cut because I figure things out as I go. You might as well remind him to change his clothes before he begins and wash his hands when he's done.
Sounds like you've done this a few times...
Jeez, I can't even remember what I had for lunch yesterday...
All those details kinda takes the fun out of a project like this. I enjoy the small surprises that end up getting my knuckles cut because I figure things out as I go. You might as well remind him to change his clothes before he begins and wash his hands when he's done.
Like 71RSZ28 said... I've done it a few times before. Got the busted knuckles to prove it, and if I can help someone else, then I'm glad to
I can *almost* do it blindfolded...
turbo dash, or not turbo dash
I have a turbo dash with all the wiring and guages laying in my garage. If I went that route, I would change the leather dash coverings on the two dashes when I'm done. I'm really unsure how I'm going to approach this now. I could do the engine conversion, hook the turbo engine wiring harness to the N/A dash wiring and see if it works. If it does, then I might say the hell with switching dashes. I will have a electronic fuel pressure and aftermarket boost guage on the A pillar anyways. I can always get my RPMs from the Scanmaster if I want.
If it doesn't work together, then I suppose I will do the dash switching. How would the electric fuel pump wiring from the rear of the car work with the N/A cars wiring? Or does this hook to the turbo engine wiring harness and get a power source form the fuse block area?
I not lazy, or afraid of the project. I'm just trying to keep the swap as simple as I can for now, since I have alot of work ahead with the engine/tranny swap and the fuel system modifications.
I have a turbo dash with all the wiring and guages laying in my garage. If I went that route, I would change the leather dash coverings on the two dashes when I'm done. I'm really unsure how I'm going to approach this now. I could do the engine conversion, hook the turbo engine wiring harness to the N/A dash wiring and see if it works. If it does, then I might say the hell with switching dashes. I will have a electronic fuel pressure and aftermarket boost guage on the A pillar anyways. I can always get my RPMs from the Scanmaster if I want.
If it doesn't work together, then I suppose I will do the dash switching. How would the electric fuel pump wiring from the rear of the car work with the N/A cars wiring? Or does this hook to the turbo engine wiring harness and get a power source form the fuse block area?
I not lazy, or afraid of the project. I'm just trying to keep the swap as simple as I can for now, since I have alot of work ahead with the engine/tranny swap and the fuel system modifications.
N/A dash is missing quite a few wires as compared to the Turbo-Car dash.
Easy enough to swap... but dont forget the A/C box (if you plan on using A/C) as it is configured slightly different from the NA box.
FYI: All the connectors are the same, but wires are not there in some instances. trying to plug and play using the incorrect dash will result in some serious headaches.
Easy enough to swap... but dont forget the A/C box (if you plan on using A/C) as it is configured slightly different from the NA box.
FYI: All the connectors are the same, but wires are not there in some instances. trying to plug and play using the incorrect dash will result in some serious headaches.
turbojustin
Ninja
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- Jan 8, 2003
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- 338
More good info...
One of my friends mentioned a difference...
I never got to do the swap into my MCSS... so I cant say firsthand...
Everytime I get a running LC2, people wanto buy it from me! (And they pay me what its worth... so hell...)
One of my friends mentioned a difference...
I never got to do the swap into my MCSS... so I cant say firsthand...
Everytime I get a running LC2, people wanto buy it from me! (And they pay me what its worth... so hell...)
