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Devils Own check valve sucks....

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disco stu

Active Member
Joined
Apr 10, 2002
Messages
2,562
What are my options?

I need something with 1/4 NPT on both ends. Running Pushlock air line style hoses, 3/8 that y's into two 1/8. Needs to WORK, as the nozzles are in the bottom of the FMIC tube.
 
Kepner can make you a check valve with any options you need, including NPT fittings, neoprene seals and a brass body... PM if you have trouble coming up with a part number. No I don't work for/with them, just know how hard it is to find quality valves... Once you have a part number, check their distributers page on the main site address for somewhere to order them.

http://www.kepner.com/pdf/how_to_order/PART_No_Check_1-8_to_3.pdf

MPT is Male NPT, I would go brass because methanol will corrode aluminum.

EDIT: If you're not sure about the 1-2 psi crack pressure, you can always take it apart and remove the spring as I usually do.
 
Kingots2004, it will drain methanol into the intercooler pipe overnight.

Thanks, unix punk. 1-2 psi cracking pressure is no problem. I'll give those guys a call.
How does it work taking the spring out? Sounds like a bad idea. How would the valve plunger (ball, diaphragm or whatever) stay seated?
 
I took it apart again. Looks like a piece of debris about the size of a grain of salt (or smaller) was on the plunger seat. First time it was a speck of Loctite that were on the valves threads. I'm going to use a filter like Razors kit.

:o
 
yeah that little ball would leak with anything on it.you going to noble this year?im gonna try to go and bring my car this year since im off crutches finally
 
If all goes well. Motors tore down, going to the machine shop tomorrow. Stroker junk is already ordered, but I have to order pistons.

Making a few minor upgrades. :smile:
 
Well in your case you would probably want to leave the spring in if the line is below pump and tank level. If it were above then gravity would keep it from leaking and the check valve would be more for stopping boost from pushing the methanol back farther before the pump kicks on.
 
What are my options?

I need something with 1/4 NPT on both ends. Running Pushlock air line style hoses, 3/8 that y's into two 1/8. Needs to WORK, as the nozzles are in the bottom of the FMIC tube.

What ever valve you get make sure it has a 15 PSI or greater cracking pressure. Our checkvalve has 1/4 inch NPT ports on each end, epdm seals for 100% meth compatibility and will not ever stick open due to debris.
 
What ever valve you get make sure it has a 15 PSI or greater cracking pressure. Our checkvalve has 1/4 inch NPT ports on each end, epdm seals for 100% meth compatibility and will not ever stick open due to debris.

Sounds perfect.
 
Its true you cant guarantee that it will never stick open, however I have never had anyone with our checkvalve have this issue. Also, due to the design of the system it would take a massive size particle to cause it to stick open..Its just not a scenerio that is likely.

David
 
What are my options?

I need something with 1/4 NPT on both ends. Running Pushlock air line style hoses, 3/8 that y's into two 1/8. Needs to WORK, as the nozzles are in the bottom of the FMIC tube.


Um.. why are the nozzles located on the bottom of the IC requiring a check valve to be used? :confused:

And yes.. no filtering.. ALL check valves will fail sooner or later.
 
And yes.. no filtering.. ALL check valves will fail sooner or later.



Agreed.

I think a filter screwed into the input port on the shurflo would be really useful. Male on one side, female on the other, so that regular stuff could be mounted to it.
 
Depends.. some cars there isnt the room. And if the filter is the least bit restrictive, it will cuase the pump to drop pressure. This is why I put mine on the pressure side.

Would be cool to find an inexpensive SS screen filter with either 3/8 flare/npt made out of plastic or stainless.
 
I would think that it would be better before the pump, and that it would be less restrictive than the little things that alot of companies sell. I also agree with the space thing, but I would rather have 1/2 on the pump then the what looks to be 4 inches of fittings and filter I see some selling.
 
I would think that it would be better before the pump, and that it would be less restrictive than the little things that alot of companies sell. I also agree with the space thing, but I would rather have 1/2 on the pump then the what looks to be 4 inches of fittings and filter I see some selling.

Yes agreed. I would actually run two filters. One pre and and post. The reason is the pre keeps large debris out of the pump and the post keeps smaller debris from getting to the nozzle. Just like the OEM gas tank has, one on the pump, and a filter after the pump to keep debris from clogging an injector.

You cant run a small micron rated filter pre-pump as it will hamper flow into the pump.. hence why its done after.

Now.. how to implemement a cost effective pre-filter. I've looked into some anodized aluminum ones with SS mesh screens.. but aluminum is/can be an issue. And not to go crazy and say a prefilter is 100 bucks.

If the user screens his alcohol going into the tank, then the debris isnt an issue. The debris issue I see more with guys that are not careful on storage, funnels, containers, etc. Its like how do you keep someone from putting trash into their tank :confused:
 
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