Dex Cool or Regular Antifreeze

[BUICKTR]

I'm debating whether or not to use Dex cool in my car instead of regular antifreeze. New motor is about to be started.

 

[INEEDAGN]

If you change your antifreeze at the recommended intervals, dex cool is not needed. In fact, I have heard rumors that dex-cool has additives that can cause problems. I haven't looked into it to see if there's any truth to it, but you may want to. hope this helps.

bob

 

[FastRegalWE2]

I ran Dex Cool fro a couple months this summer, I have changed back to the Green Stuff............seemed like it ran hotter on the DC

 

[FlyinGN]

I have ben a dexcool fan for many years in many cars. Never had ONE coolant problem or any deposits in any of the cars rads.. I love the stuff.

 

[libertysyclone]

I agree with flyingn I am very happy with it, except cost! but it runs a little cooler in my IC w/ water wetter vs green w/WW.

 

[strikeeagle]

STAY AWAY FROM DEXCOOL (YES, I'M SHOUTING)!!!!!!!

 

[BUICKTR]

Thanks for the input!!!

 

[TurboDave]

I'd have to agree Dexcool has NO PLACE in T/R's, period. It wasn't designed for these car's cooling systems and isn't needed.

The two times I tried it (yes I was stuborn), it created HUGE scammer deposits in the bottom of the overflow tank (subsequently plugging it). Required VERY extensive flushing to get those deposits out of the bottom of the radiators. I'm back to regular anti freezes now, and happier for it.

 

[mark b]

The infamous Dexcool fiasco. Turned to mud in my girlfriends GMC, who blamed the make (Dow?) and refused to warranty anything. GM also claimed it was the consumers fault for letting air into the cooling system. What a crock.

Anyway, if you want to use the long-life stuff, people have had good luck with the Toyota stuff (red in color).

For summer use, distilled water and RMI-25 is the best combo.

If you want to blow money, look into the Evans cooling system.

Otherwise, I'm in 100% agreement with turbodave!

 

[scottyb]

I use the standard stuff (antifreeze and distilled) in my Florida daily driver. I don't understand the big fuss over "better cooling products". I run my AC the majority of the year. Sure, the temps creep up to 200 on a 90+ summer day in stop-and-go traffic, but with the AC off or the car in motion it runs < 170. The only change I have from stock is an F-body radiator and external oil and tranny coolers.

 

[mark b]

scottyb - can you elaborate on how you plumbed your oil cooler? Did you tap into the lines from the filter housing to the radiator?

TIA

 

[scottyb]

I retained the stock oil cooler lines. I went to NAPA and picked up some fittings to convert the ends that normally attached to the radiator to nipples, then used standard tranny cooler lines from there to the cooler. The truth is, it isn't pretty because the fittings are kinda bulky (brass step down), but I never try to make my driver a show car under the hood.

 

[gofstbuick]

My standard GN radiator was recored a couple of years ago. I have continued to use the green antifreeze/coolant in my GN. It gets to 100+ here in CA during the summer months (probably not as hot a AZ). My temps are around 165-180 during normal driving and 180-195 with the AC on. I have found that if you take the time to purge the air form the cooling system and keep the coolant clean, it does wonders for keeping the engine cool. When I change coolant, I start the engine up with a funnel in the radiator and coolant about 1/3 of the level of the funnel. Once the T-stat opens, the level in the funnel will drop, so I again fill it to 1/3 of the funnel level. I allow the cooling system to cycle the t-stat open for about a1/2 hour (adding coolant to the funnel if it becomes low), then finally raising the RPMs to 2500, topping the radiator off and capping the radiator while the RPMs are still at 2500. Don't forget to add coolant to your overflow tank.