Turbo__Tim
One heck of a Tim!
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
- Messages
- 640
Oops, the link doesn't work anymore. I'm working on it....
I am excited about this system I'm building, and thought I would share the inner workings of it with yous guys.
All suggestions and comments are welcome. I will be trying this out monday (hopefully). The soldering is nearly finished. All I need to do is wire it into the car.
One thing I havn't figured has to do with testing the solenoid, and high speed valve. I want to be able to activate them individually in 'Park' with the pump motor running. I can run pos, and neg. lines to them, and turn the pump on, and de-activate the injector pulse to the 1st stage, but I need to run four lines, and have a switch to activate the pump, and another one to interrupt the injecftor pulse...Sheesh there must be an easier way! I want to make sure the alchy is getting through the nozzles so I need to hear the engine stumble at idle, activating each stage one at a time before I do a wot blast. I'm kinda stuck as to how to do that without all the B.S....
Remember, I am merging this with an SMC kit. (This kit adapted to Aquamist nozzles.) The "arm" voltage is activated once the SMC hobb reaches 14 ps1. I'm taking the voltage right off the line that feeds the pump motor. (+ voltage off the original Hobbs switch, which is not shown in the diagram). The relays need + arm voltage, as well as input voltage (right side in the diagram) and a ground to allow the + voltage to feed through. This is used in nitrous systems to prevent accidental discharge. I use it because I want the system to activate at 14 psi, and I don't want 8-9 volts-(half motor speed voltage) to be the working voltage in this system. I hope it is enough voltage to arm the relays.
It might help if I mentioned that the solenoid, and the speed valve are both passing alchy, not voltage..
(If not, I will be SOL, since this is where everything starts)...;(
Here is what happens after wot (hopefully)
The boost hits 14 psi and the pump motor turns on. This arms the 1st speed valve relay (and the second stage relay at the same time) and activates the 1st stage speed valve. (The 1st stage continues to run all through the quarter)It also activated the RPM activated window switch, though that isn't on yet.
As the boost hits 18 psi, the 2nd stage hobbs switch (in the diagram)completes the ground to the second stage solenoid. As rpm's reach the 4,000 rpm mark, the window activated switch provides a ground to the second stage relay, and that relay passes 12 volts to the second stage solenoid which sprays (along with the first stage)until the engine reaches a rpm level that I select, and shuts off.
After the shift to 2nd gear, the first stage remains running to keep temps down a bit. After timing begins to increase, and the temps begin to rise the alchy will come on again, and shut off just before the shift into 3rd happens.
I haven't tested this out yet, so maybe somebody can suggest at what rpm's when I should turn the second stage off and on at?
I should be testing monday, I'll let you all know the results. Eventually, this will be a water only injection system. (I hope)
The speed valve (from Aquamist) is very expensive so I wouldn't reccomend anybody just go out and buy one. It runs off the injector pulse and gives a linear delivery, but I'm told it won't work through the entire quarter (need several speed valves for that!) so I'll just use it for all it can contribute. Hopefully it will do half the job when I switch the system to water. Of course at that point I will need a more powerfull pump to get atomization that is needed with a water only system. Maybe...
I am excited about this system I'm building, and thought I would share the inner workings of it with yous guys.

One thing I havn't figured has to do with testing the solenoid, and high speed valve. I want to be able to activate them individually in 'Park' with the pump motor running. I can run pos, and neg. lines to them, and turn the pump on, and de-activate the injector pulse to the 1st stage, but I need to run four lines, and have a switch to activate the pump, and another one to interrupt the injecftor pulse...Sheesh there must be an easier way! I want to make sure the alchy is getting through the nozzles so I need to hear the engine stumble at idle, activating each stage one at a time before I do a wot blast. I'm kinda stuck as to how to do that without all the B.S....
Remember, I am merging this with an SMC kit. (This kit adapted to Aquamist nozzles.) The "arm" voltage is activated once the SMC hobb reaches 14 ps1. I'm taking the voltage right off the line that feeds the pump motor. (+ voltage off the original Hobbs switch, which is not shown in the diagram). The relays need + arm voltage, as well as input voltage (right side in the diagram) and a ground to allow the + voltage to feed through. This is used in nitrous systems to prevent accidental discharge. I use it because I want the system to activate at 14 psi, and I don't want 8-9 volts-(half motor speed voltage) to be the working voltage in this system. I hope it is enough voltage to arm the relays.
It might help if I mentioned that the solenoid, and the speed valve are both passing alchy, not voltage..
(If not, I will be SOL, since this is where everything starts)...;(
Here is what happens after wot (hopefully)
The boost hits 14 psi and the pump motor turns on. This arms the 1st speed valve relay (and the second stage relay at the same time) and activates the 1st stage speed valve. (The 1st stage continues to run all through the quarter)It also activated the RPM activated window switch, though that isn't on yet.
As the boost hits 18 psi, the 2nd stage hobbs switch (in the diagram)completes the ground to the second stage solenoid. As rpm's reach the 4,000 rpm mark, the window activated switch provides a ground to the second stage relay, and that relay passes 12 volts to the second stage solenoid which sprays (along with the first stage)until the engine reaches a rpm level that I select, and shuts off.
After the shift to 2nd gear, the first stage remains running to keep temps down a bit. After timing begins to increase, and the temps begin to rise the alchy will come on again, and shut off just before the shift into 3rd happens.
I haven't tested this out yet, so maybe somebody can suggest at what rpm's when I should turn the second stage off and on at?
I should be testing monday, I'll let you all know the results. Eventually, this will be a water only injection system. (I hope)
The speed valve (from Aquamist) is very expensive so I wouldn't reccomend anybody just go out and buy one. It runs off the injector pulse and gives a linear delivery, but I'm told it won't work through the entire quarter (need several speed valves for that!) so I'll just use it for all it can contribute. Hopefully it will do half the job when I switch the system to water. Of course at that point I will need a more powerfull pump to get atomization that is needed with a water only system. Maybe...
