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disappointment on the dyno

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Razor said:
Lastly, the way power is made using injection is replacing fuel that is pulled. If you target a 20% replacement.. that typically is a good starting point.
This is the key point I think for SloGN, it sounds like from his description that the fueling was not changed between the pull with pure race gas and the next pull with alky added in...that would make for a very rich mixture if the pump was working, but it doesn't sound like the AF changed much.
You have to cut PE fueling in the chip to use alky effectively.
I've made 404 rwhp on the dyno with a GT61 turbo and stock untouched heads with alky, with your ported heads you should make around 425-440rwhp with the combo you have SloGN. Our combos are almost the same except for the heads. I've ran 7.23 at 96 in the 1/8 so your 350rwhp with a 7.6 1/8 time is a correct match hp to 1/8 time IMO. The guy's dyno is reporting the correct numbers, don't sound low to me given your times.
 
Ok, I have now put the turbotweak chip back in, af is pegging 255. I then removed the translator and put the stock maf back in. AF pegging 255, but still the same problem. o2s in the high 690s. FP is at 43psi, boost at 20 psi. FP is stil matching boost, no knock, BLMs at 128 at idle. The car does feel a little stronger now, but not like it should. I am waiting for it to cool off, and I am going to swap the 009s back in. I have a chip that says 42.5s and 20 psi, but I dont know who made it. I can't find my old Turbotweak chip.
 
Razor said:
Another thing to look at is if the O2's jump into the mid 800's initially when you get on the gas. That will typically show that the O2 is working as should.

Some cars when driving down the road, if you depress the test button on the alky system will jump into the 800's.

Report back.


That's exactly what I'd like to find out. If the 02's never jump up that high under a forced rich condition something is wrong with the 02, the gauge that's reading the 02 or poor connections making the readings skewed.


seeyabye,

Is it possible that you can do this simple test and report back?
 
Razor


The extender chip i have is made to be used with the alky set up for 98 octane. Also if i put the pump speed setting @ # 5 the car starts breaking up like it's to rich but the o2's don't show that it's truely rich. but this is on the street so i didn't turn the alky to 5 on the dyno i set it @ where i run it on the street. which is # 4


I didn't now the electrical noise from the pump running could have an affect on the MAF signal.

what does it interfere with the translator or the MAF it self?

will have to borrow a direct scan and look for that.
 
Turning on at 6psi is way too early. You dont have the rpms and airflow to properly handle that alky spray. Not only that, but setting it at pump speed 4 will probably give you a really crappy, poorly atomized spray pattern. I turn my kit on at about 14psi with the pump speed at 9, and then tune everything in with the extender. The transition is pretty seamless. I just hate how everything on this kit is falling apart.
 
SloGN said:
Razor


The extender chip i have is made to be used with the alky set up for 98 octane. Also if i put the pump speed setting @ # 5 the car starts breaking up like it's to rich but the o2's don't show that it's truely rich. but this is on the street so i didn't turn the alky to 5 on the dyno i set it @ where i run it on the street. which is # 4


I didn't now the electrical noise from the pump running could have an affect on the MAF signal.

what does it interfere with the translator or the MAF it self?

will have to borrow a direct scan and look for that.

The translator gets power from guess where? The fuse box. The alky system gets power from where???? The fuse box. The interference is generated there is picked up by the translator creating a surging issue.. the surging comes from improper fueling.

Turn the turn-on to like 10-12 PSI, crank the knob on the controller, yank fuel out.. all will come into line. With fixed pressure systems its a hit/miss deal tuning them. Guess why progressive controllers where ever concieved? To cure those short comings.
 
seeyabye said:
Ok, I have now put the turbotweak chip back in, af is pegging 255. I then removed the translator and put the stock maf back in. AF pegging 255, but still the same problem. o2s in the high 690s. FP is at 43psi, boost at 20 psi. FP is stil matching boost, no knock, BLMs at 128 at idle. The car does feel a little stronger now, but not like it should. I am waiting for it to cool off, and I am going to swap the 009s back in. I have a chip that says 42.5s and 20 psi, but I dont know who made it. I can't find my old Turbotweak chip.

Then its pointing to either very bad O2 sensor or your fuel system is taking a dump. Your going to need to put a fuel pressure guage where you can see it and then start putting the motor into boost.

Can also be your fuel pressure regulator/hoses.

As above... do the O2's jump into the 800's when the test button is pressed on the alky kit and the car stumbles?
 
VadersV6 said:
Turning on at 6psi is way too early. You dont have the rpms and airflow to properly handle that alky spray. Not only that, but setting it at pump speed 4 will probably give you a really crappy, poorly atomized spray pattern. I turn my kit on at about 14psi with the pump speed at 9, and then tune everything in with the extender. The transition is pretty seamless. I just hate how everything on this kit is falling apart.

True on non-progressive systems.
 
Ok, I swapped the 009's and corresponding chip (pos from the dyno place). o2s are now in the 830s. Somehow I must have a set of bad injectors, because it is hard for me to believe that two reputable chip makers made bad chips. This sucks! I have $600 in the injectors and 2 chips, and they are useless! Now I wish I could find my turbotweak chip for the 009s. What should I do? I bought the 60's because I didn't think the 009s would handle the kind of power the te45a was capable of. Should I send the chips back and try to have more fuel put in them, or forget about the 60's and go with some 72s? How much power will the 009s handle?
 
How about sending the 60s back to be flow checked? If there is an issue with them then the dealer "should" own up to them and send you a replacement for bad ones. Maybe you should call or email the vendor and tell of your issues and see. Next would be the chips. I'm sure they can be messed up too but they are easier to change than injectors. How old are the injectors?
 
The injectors are only a couple of months old and only have a couple hundred miles on them. I am going to call the place I got them from and ask them what I should do. I just found my turbotweak chip for the 009s. I just came back from a test drive and the car is noticeably stronger. I turned the boost up to 24 psi, and the FP to 45. O2s are 790s, no knock, and my car has become the tire fryer. I am curious to see what it would do on the dyno now. :D
 
Glad to hear you are zeroing in on the cause of the low O2s. They should at least flow them for you to see if they are functioning correctly. Hope they help you out. Sometimes it tough find a problem when so many things have changed.
 
It sounds very much like it was too rich (especially since you had no knock). Excess fuel will really heat up the EGT's which will drive the O2 sensor bonkers. If there was something wrong with the 60's, your blm's would have been whacked out.

There was a lot more WOT fuel in that 60lb chip than the 009 chip. It probably needs leaned out. Since that chip was set up for alky+100oct, I set it up for higher boost, more like 25-27psi rather than 20-23psi.

If you feel like buying yourself a present this Christmas, get yourself a wideband. It really makes tuning easier (especially with alcohol). Don't always trust the wideband at a dyno facility, especially if it's shoved up the tailpipe. Some work ok, but many don't.

Your TT 009 chip is set up for 80% DC at 5000rpm. In other words, the equivalent of a 33lb injector!

Regards,
Eric
 
I did put the 009s back in the car along with the TT chip. I am going to invest in a wideband and also direct scan. Thanks for all the help. Once I get the wideband, I'll try Eric's theory on the 60's.
 
Just my .02 worth, but the 009's will NOT support the TE45A, not safely anyway. Stay with the 60's (or better) and get the chips "right".
 
seeyabye said:
I did put the 009s back in the car along with the TT chip. I am going to invest in a wideband and also direct scan. Thanks for all the help. Once I get the wideband, I'll try Eric's theory on the 60's.

wow, good luck to you getting that sorted out.. my car made 340tq to the wheels with 10psi with a wideband pegged rich and false knock out the wazoo...

you should be wayy up there..
 
Ok, one more question. How do I manually lock the converter? I have heard several times that my numbers may be seriously off because I have a high stall converter that is unlocked.
 
seeyabye said:
Ok, one more question. How do I manually lock the converter? I have heard several times that my numbers may be seriously off because I have a high stall converter that is unlocked.
Run a ground wire to a on/off switch, and then wire the other side of the switch to terminal F on the ALDL.
 
Cool, thanks 2quick. Kevin, the car is making a lot more power now. I need to get it back to the dyno. I have ordered direct scan, and I'm looking for a wideband before I try to put the 60's back in.
 
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