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Bryan Weber said:
We really have no trade secrets we just try to do things right. Here are some things that we feel are important to flat lifter cam survival. These items must work because we have almost no failures. Many of these items have already been mentioned but I will run though it anyway:

1) Proper installation:
A) Make sure all components are clean and free of any dents, nicks, or burrs.
B) Coat all lobes and lifter bottoms with cam lube.
C) Have proper springs installed and set-up correctly (for .450" lift cam 90-100 lbs. on the seat and approx. 220lbs open)
D) Make sure valves can open fully with no interferance or binding (rockers will allow lift, pushrods don't bind, retainers clear valve seals at full valve lift, and springs do not coil bind).
E) Use GM lifters (we keep them in stock and highly recommend them with all of our Buick v6 flat cams).

2) Proper break in
A) Prime oil system prior to initial start up with fresh straight 30 or 40 weight quality oil.
B) Prime fuel system and be sure of no leaks
C) Fill cooling system and be sure it is in proper operating condition.
D) Make sure igntion is in order
E) Crank engine and have it fire immediately and increase rpm to approx. 2,000 fluctuating occasionally it slightly for at least 15 minutes making sure oil pressure is good and engine stays cool.
F) Change oil and filter immediately after cam break in again with straight weight oil
G) Drive car or run engine for another hour or so and change oil and filter again and install high grade synthetic oil.
H) Be concious(sp) of idle time. The cam and lifter surface does not oil well at idle so it should be kept to a minimum.

If using quality products and these steps are followed the cams should hold fine in these engines. It works for us.

That's the only way I've done a cam job; maybe 20 to 25 times, only ever had a problem 2 times and both were only one lobe on the same car - #3e. Over 300 lobes just fine but 2 wiped #3e's.
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Well some of the High School days engine jobs got cams with stock springs but we made sure everything cleared.
 
Here is my theory on synthetic oil....don't use it unless the roatating assembly has 10k miles or more! I'm convinced that syn oil is too slick and will not allow the lobe to rotate the lifter as well as dino oil....call me crazy, but the only cam I've ever wiped out was when I was using syn oil. Secondly, it's a crap shoot with these aftermarket cams, the stocker in both of my cars was great after tens of thousands of miles. I have a Comp 212-212 with 112º lobe seperation & matching lifters for sale....already broken with less than 400 miles and ready to install. See my ad on on "parts for sale" if interested, I'll make you a great deal!
 
Just To Let You Know

I made a call today to talk to Rod at isky. I told him about these problems, and wanted to know if he knew anything about the #3 exh. and if my cam would have problems with that. He told me that the Isky cams were built to fix that problem, and he thought that all companies were aware of that. He was surprised to hear that all I heard did this was earson, and stock gm. I've had no problems with mine, occasionally I get some lifter noise when cold, but goes right away when it warms up. I'm going to try some EOS, and a thicker oil, I personally think mobil 1 syn. is overrated. Look into the Isky line up or give Rod a call. 323-770-0930. I would go with the whole valve train like I did, this way you have no doubt about the math on the products being put together from all different companies. :)
 
nice timing

turbov6joe said:
Here is my theory on synthetic oil....don't use it unless the roatating assembly has 10k miles or more! I'm convinced that syn oil is too slick and will not allow the lobe to rotate the lifter as well as dino oil....call me crazy, but the only cam I've ever wiped out was when I was using syn oil. Secondly, it's a crap shoot with these aftermarket cams, the stocker in both of my cars was great after tens of thousands of miles. I have a Comp 212-212 with 112º lobe seperation & matching lifters for sale....already broken with less than 400 miles and ready to install. See my ad on on "parts for sale" if interested, I'll make you a great deal!
at least you have the same ideal on oil as me. good timing man. :smile:
 
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