Do chips go bad?

[Ken Cunningham]

Running down the freeway, the car starts to sputter, then the SES lights. I pull off and 2 codes are set: 33 and 51 and the car is in 'limp home mode'. I reset the ECM but the code 51 returns twice in 2 days, both times within 15 min. of starting out. I was just sure that the ECM had gone, BUT I replaced the Thraser chip with a Red Armstrong that I keep in the glove box. So far, the code 51 has not returned. Has anyone ever seen an EPROM just die? Should I still suspect the ECM?

 

[TurboDave]

Originally posted by Ken Cunningham
Running down the freeway, the car starts to sputter, then the SES lights. I pull off and 2 codes are set: 33 and 51 and the car is in 'limp home mode'. I reset the ECM but the code 51 returns twice in 2 days, both times within 15 min. of starting out. I was just sure that the ECM had gone, BUT I replaced the Thraser chip with a Red Armstrong that I keep in the glove box. So far, the code 51 has not returned. Has anyone ever seen an EPROM just die? Should I still suspect the ECM?

Do you have Direct Scan? If so, what version? Was it hooked up during this occurance?

 

[Ken Cunningham]

No Direct Scan, just an AutoXray scan tool. It was plugged into the ADL, but not turned on during any of the events that set the code. After the first incident, where the 33 was set, I monitored MAF readings for awhile because my first thought was a bad MAF had caused the problem. But the MAF readings look good at both idle and under power, and the gnttype.org listing shows that the 33 can be triggered by a bad ECM as well.

 

[GNandGS]

Yeah, they can go bad... not common though. Had it happen to me also and it acted just like a bad MAF but with NO codes. Goofy.

Shawn

 

[wilkinshc]

Usually with a bad chip it will give the errors right away ( at least my experinces anyway). Did you check the pins to see if they were bent or if the chip was not all the way in. Could be lint or dirt. And as TurboDave said if Direct Scan was hooked up the plug could be pushed in to far and the car runs like crap.


Chuck

 

[TurboJim]

Ive seen em go bad too. For no apparent reason. Just one day it runs like crap. The car in particular didnt code, just scan date wasnt right, so I burned another chip, problem solved

 

[Ken Cunningham]

Thanks for all the input. My current thinking is: Bad ECM.
I pulled the ECM out of the car, cleaned the connector pins and put the Thrasher back in this weekend. Still no codes set after driving Sun and Mon. I think the process of taking the ECM out of its housing to put in the RA chip was enough to shake whatever was out of whack back into position. For now, the thing seems to be OK, but I will keep a close eye on it. Probably pick up another ECM the next time I'm out at the junkyard.

 

[GNandGS]

Didnt see any greenish stuff on the harness or ECM? If you DID then that would be the most likely thing... imo

Shawn

 

[Ken Cunningham]

No greenish stuff. I sprayed contact cleaner on the pins and rubbed them with a qtip. Not because I saw anything on the pins, but to remove any micro-corrosion that might be present. I did open the cover of the ECM (not the cover over the EPROM, but the entire top cover) just because I had never done that before to see what the ECM was all about. I did not see anything amiss, nor did I see any other electrical connectors that looked worthy of a spritz of contact cleaner.

One more thing, I did just fix a leak around the heater box under the hood. I had been getting a wet passenger floor every time it rained, and found a great set of messages on this board that told me *exactly* how to fix it. Now the floor stays dry when it rains, so I did get the culprit. It doesn't rain real often here in So Cal, but we have seen some. I never saw any dampness on the ECM or the cover, so did not think the ECM was jeopardized. But now everyone is probably thinking "Well, now he tells us!"