With the vac line off, with the TT chip i have it would of been about 43psi that it would of called for.
With the vac line on it needed to read around 38psi, according to what is recommended for the baseline fuel pressures on these TR's.
Up until a few weeks ago, i hadn't had any issues with her. The mods have been on the car prior to me buying her back in Oct 2010, it was rebuilt back in 2010 and only had 100 miles on the rebuild when i bought her from the previous owner at the time. I was very careful with not running her too hard while finishing the break-in on the engine the next 500 or so miles from getting her. I had her transported on a transport truck from a town outside of austin down to where i am in El Paso, where she's called home since buying her and where i had broke her in.
I've put somewhere between 27k and 28k miles on her since owning her over the last 4 years, which is an average of around 6500 to 7000 miles a year on her. I guess i've been lucky she's been going that long or the person that did the work had to know what they were doing, with what had been done and that there was still some stock stuff on her.
There's 2 Coolant sensors near where you mentioned, one has a single green wire that plugs into it that is a round type connector which sits closer to the upper plenum and the other is closer to the Cam Sensor Cap wire harness more towards the front of the intake area. Which doesn't have only a single wire going to it.
You're talking about the one that has more than only a single green wire going to it correct, just making sure i'm not mis-understanding on which 1 you were refering to. I know the single wire one is suppose to be the one which is suppose to allow seeing what the coolant temp is via the Scanmaster or other datalogger device hooked into the ECM and also make the idiot light come on if the engine gets too hot, if i am recalling correctly.
I've been thinking it might of had to do with something messing with timing possibly, but something else could possibly be creating the problem. If i could monitor what the air / fuel ratio was doing, might of been alittle easier to troubleshoot her and resolve the issue faster. The one of many drawbacks of having limited monitoring abilities, makes trying to figure out what is wrong harder.
In some ways it seems weird that it might be a Coolant Temp Sensor issue, would think it would of thrown a code or possibly would be overheating if that were possibly malfunctioning. Not saying it isn't possible, but if the coolant temps are accurate on the scanmaster & the cooling fan is kicking on once it reaches 160 degrees seems like that might not necessarily be the issue.
The radiator is full with 50/50 prestone anti-freeze / coolant. No leaks or any fluids mixing together, no smoking out of the exhaust or anywhere else. No coolant or water going into the overflow bottle, so it can't be overheating. I know the water pump is working properly as fluid is being circulated through the whole cooling system.
No codes being thrown, but something is not actting right somewhere to be actting like she is. Not really sure what else to try at this point.
